Any good ideas for replacing the Monsoon
Any good ideas for replacing the Monsoon My Monsoon system has gone completely to hell. So as soon as the financial aid comes in I'm upgrading it should be about 2K so hopefully I can upgrade the sounds and still some change left for a dry kit 
Both the subs(sail panel speakers) are non-functioning, and the two door speakers sound like ***. I want to replace them with Infinity Kappa 6.1 components, 63.5 3 way full rangers for the doors, and possibly alter the hatch area for some larger ovular speakers(any ideas). For the head unit I want to go DVD for the cool(bling) factor but have no brand in mind probably something cheap bcuz DVD head units are expensive. I know the 6.1's are like lil sub's and sound great but the system with no true sub's in 1000 range even if I get a Jensen H/U . Or should I just get a stealth box w/ a good H/U instead of the DVD? Is there any thing more cost effective that can rival the Infinity speakers in sound quality? BTW even if it's rice to upgrade speakers before mods I cant drive without any sounds 
Both the subs(sail panel speakers) are non-functioning, and the two door speakers sound like ***. I want to replace them with Infinity Kappa 6.1 components, 63.5 3 way full rangers for the doors, and possibly alter the hatch area for some larger ovular speakers(any ideas). For the head unit I want to go DVD for the cool(bling) factor but have no brand in mind probably something cheap bcuz DVD head units are expensive. I know the 6.1's are like lil sub's and sound great but the system with no true sub's in 1000 range even if I get a Jensen H/U . Or should I just get a stealth box w/ a good H/U instead of the DVD? Is there any thing more cost effective that can rival the Infinity speakers in sound quality? BTW even if it's rice to upgrade speakers before mods I cant drive without any sounds 
Here is what I did and am going to do with mine....
I put in 4 Infinity Kappa 62.7i's. I put 2 in the doors bi wired like the original speakers and put 2 in the sail panels. I then pulled the wires from the rear hatch speakers back to the sail panel speakers since the hatch speakers are full range speakers and the sail panel connectors only put out a sub signal.
I just recently bought 2 10" stealth sub's (one for the driver side and one the passenger side) and an extended amp rack which hangs off the rear inside hatch area. I then bought 2 JL audio 10" subs new off of ebay. I also picked up an humount. I also ordered an Alpine 9857 HU with the steering wheel module and the Ipod module. I wanted NAV but honestly I would never use it and it does add considerably to the HU cost. I also ordered 3 JL audio amps. Two mono "slash" (250 watts each) amps for the subs and a 4 channel amp (75 watt x 4) for the 4 Infinity's and about 200 bucks worth of hookup wire, distribution blocks, circuit breakers, ring connectors etc..
The sound now is MUCH better than it was before already. I could probably stop at just the 4 Infinity's but that's not my style. When I do something I kinda go all out
There is not much bass currently but that will be corrected once the rest of the gear I ordered is installed. The entire system cost me right around 2500.00 and of course that does not include my labor to install it. I'm figuring the whol job taking 2 full days of me taking my time. I also think once I'm done I should have a very respectable system. Another nice part is that the system is pretty stealth. With the hatch closed and that stock hatch cover in place you won't see the amps/subs very easily and I can still store my T-tops in their regular location. I will lose my jack and spare but I keep a small compressor in the car and honestly even when the tire has 5 lbs of air the tiny side (35 series) wall keeps the tire from actually going pancaking.
I went grey market on all the gear other than the HU. The amps come with a one year warranty through the company that sold them to me. The subs have a 30 day return policy so if they arrive blown I'm covered. I would have easily spent 4k on the same system (without labor) if I went to a store and purchased it. Unfortunatly JL does not sell over the Internet and the places around me who do sell their stuff want full retail and I'm not paying full retail. The HU I did buy from an authorized Internet dealer. One with an outstanding record of service and one that I have been buying from for years. I figured there is a lot of electronics in the HU and that is not something I want to get stuck with if it breaks in 6 months.
So if you want to start small...Just put 4 Infinity's in. Cut the Bose connectors off the current speakers, wire that to the new Infinity's and see how you like that. Make sure you mark which wires go to the mids and the tweets before cutting them!! If you don't you'll have a very tough time figuring out which wires go where. I did not do this but had the service manual wire diagrams so I was saved. If you do sail panel you need to pull the wires from the hatch speakers back which is very easy to do. Took me 1/2 hour in total. Cut the connector off the 4" speaker in the hatch and wire that directly to the Infinity xover. You don't need the xover for the front speakers if using the stock HU and amp. This way you can always go back to stock easily without cutting any wires from the harness. You would just need new Monsoon speakers or to solder the connector wires back on to your current Monsoon speakers. To be honest the 4" speakers in the back do nothing but "fill" and I would not bother replacing those unless you have people who sit in the hatch
Good luck!
I put in 4 Infinity Kappa 62.7i's. I put 2 in the doors bi wired like the original speakers and put 2 in the sail panels. I then pulled the wires from the rear hatch speakers back to the sail panel speakers since the hatch speakers are full range speakers and the sail panel connectors only put out a sub signal.
I just recently bought 2 10" stealth sub's (one for the driver side and one the passenger side) and an extended amp rack which hangs off the rear inside hatch area. I then bought 2 JL audio 10" subs new off of ebay. I also picked up an humount. I also ordered an Alpine 9857 HU with the steering wheel module and the Ipod module. I wanted NAV but honestly I would never use it and it does add considerably to the HU cost. I also ordered 3 JL audio amps. Two mono "slash" (250 watts each) amps for the subs and a 4 channel amp (75 watt x 4) for the 4 Infinity's and about 200 bucks worth of hookup wire, distribution blocks, circuit breakers, ring connectors etc..
The sound now is MUCH better than it was before already. I could probably stop at just the 4 Infinity's but that's not my style. When I do something I kinda go all out
There is not much bass currently but that will be corrected once the rest of the gear I ordered is installed. The entire system cost me right around 2500.00 and of course that does not include my labor to install it. I'm figuring the whol job taking 2 full days of me taking my time. I also think once I'm done I should have a very respectable system. Another nice part is that the system is pretty stealth. With the hatch closed and that stock hatch cover in place you won't see the amps/subs very easily and I can still store my T-tops in their regular location. I will lose my jack and spare but I keep a small compressor in the car and honestly even when the tire has 5 lbs of air the tiny side (35 series) wall keeps the tire from actually going pancaking.I went grey market on all the gear other than the HU. The amps come with a one year warranty through the company that sold them to me. The subs have a 30 day return policy so if they arrive blown I'm covered. I would have easily spent 4k on the same system (without labor) if I went to a store and purchased it. Unfortunatly JL does not sell over the Internet and the places around me who do sell their stuff want full retail and I'm not paying full retail. The HU I did buy from an authorized Internet dealer. One with an outstanding record of service and one that I have been buying from for years. I figured there is a lot of electronics in the HU and that is not something I want to get stuck with if it breaks in 6 months.
So if you want to start small...Just put 4 Infinity's in. Cut the Bose connectors off the current speakers, wire that to the new Infinity's and see how you like that. Make sure you mark which wires go to the mids and the tweets before cutting them!! If you don't you'll have a very tough time figuring out which wires go where. I did not do this but had the service manual wire diagrams so I was saved. If you do sail panel you need to pull the wires from the hatch speakers back which is very easy to do. Took me 1/2 hour in total. Cut the connector off the 4" speaker in the hatch and wire that directly to the Infinity xover. You don't need the xover for the front speakers if using the stock HU and amp. This way you can always go back to stock easily without cutting any wires from the harness. You would just need new Monsoon speakers or to solder the connector wires back on to your current Monsoon speakers. To be honest the 4" speakers in the back do nothing but "fill" and I would not bother replacing those unless you have people who sit in the hatch
Good luck!
Originally Posted by Mike02Z
Here is what I did and am going to do with mine....
I put in 4 Infinity Kappa 62.7i's. I put 2 in the doors bi wired like the original speakers and put 2 in the sail panels. I then pulled the wires from the rear hatch speakers back to the sail panel speakers since the hatch speakers are full range speakers and the sail panel connectors only put out a sub signal.
I just recently bought 2 10" stealth sub's (one for the driver side and one the passenger side) and an extended amp rack which hangs off the rear inside hatch area. I then bought 2 JL audio 10" subs new off of ebay. I also picked up an humount. I also ordered an Alpine 9857 HU with the steering wheel module and the Ipod module. I wanted NAV but honestly I would never use it and it does add considerably to the HU cost. I also ordered 3 JL audio amps. Two mono "slash" (250 watts each) amps for the subs and a 4 channel amp (75 watt x 4) for the 4 Infinity's and about 200 bucks worth of hookup wire, distribution blocks, circuit breakers, ring connectors etc..
The sound now is MUCH better than it was before already. I could probably stop at just the 4 Infinity's but that's not my style. When I do something I kinda go all out There is not much bass currently but that will be corrected once the rest of the gear I ordered is installed. The entire system cost me right around 2500.00 and of course that does not include my labor to install it. I'm figuring the whol job taking 2 full days of me taking my time. I also think once I'm done I should have a very respectable system. Another nice part is that the system is pretty stealth. With the hatch closed and that stock hatch cover in place you won't see the amps/subs very easily and I can still store my T-tops in their regular location. I will lose my jack and spare but I keep a small compressor in the car and honestly even when the tire has 5 lbs of air the tiny side (35 series) wall keeps the tire from actually going pancaking.
I went grey market on all the gear other than the HU. The amps come with a one year warranty through the company that sold them to me. The subs have a 30 day return policy so if they arrive blown I'm covered. I would have easily spent 4k on the same system (without labor) if I went to a store and purchased it. Unfortunatly JL does not sell over the Internet and the places around me who do sell their stuff want full retail and I'm not paying full retail. The HU I did buy from an authorized Internet dealer. One with an outstanding record of service and one that I have been buying from for years. I figured there is a lot of electronics in the HU and that is not something I want to get stuck with if it breaks in 6 months.
So if you want to start small...Just put 4 Infinity's in. Cut the Bose connectors off the current speakers, wire that to the new Infinity's and see how you like that. Make sure you mark which wires go to the mids and the tweets before cutting them!! If you don't you'll have a very tough time figuring out which wires go where. I did not do this but had the service manual wire diagrams so I was saved. If you do sail panel you need to pull the wires from the hatch speakers back which is very easy to do. Took me 1/2 hour in total. Cut the connector off the 4" speaker in the hatch and wire that directly to the Infinity xover. You don't need the xover for the front speakers if using the stock HU and amp. This way you can always go back to stock easily without cutting any wires from the harness. You would just need new Monsoon speakers or to solder the connector wires back on to your current Monsoon speakers. To be honest the 4" speakers in the back do nothing but "fill" and I would not bother replacing those unless you have people who sit in the hatch
Good luck!
I put in 4 Infinity Kappa 62.7i's. I put 2 in the doors bi wired like the original speakers and put 2 in the sail panels. I then pulled the wires from the rear hatch speakers back to the sail panel speakers since the hatch speakers are full range speakers and the sail panel connectors only put out a sub signal.
I just recently bought 2 10" stealth sub's (one for the driver side and one the passenger side) and an extended amp rack which hangs off the rear inside hatch area. I then bought 2 JL audio 10" subs new off of ebay. I also picked up an humount. I also ordered an Alpine 9857 HU with the steering wheel module and the Ipod module. I wanted NAV but honestly I would never use it and it does add considerably to the HU cost. I also ordered 3 JL audio amps. Two mono "slash" (250 watts each) amps for the subs and a 4 channel amp (75 watt x 4) for the 4 Infinity's and about 200 bucks worth of hookup wire, distribution blocks, circuit breakers, ring connectors etc..
The sound now is MUCH better than it was before already. I could probably stop at just the 4 Infinity's but that's not my style. When I do something I kinda go all out
There is not much bass currently but that will be corrected once the rest of the gear I ordered is installed. The entire system cost me right around 2500.00 and of course that does not include my labor to install it. I'm figuring the whol job taking 2 full days of me taking my time. I also think once I'm done I should have a very respectable system. Another nice part is that the system is pretty stealth. With the hatch closed and that stock hatch cover in place you won't see the amps/subs very easily and I can still store my T-tops in their regular location. I will lose my jack and spare but I keep a small compressor in the car and honestly even when the tire has 5 lbs of air the tiny side (35 series) wall keeps the tire from actually going pancaking.I went grey market on all the gear other than the HU. The amps come with a one year warranty through the company that sold them to me. The subs have a 30 day return policy so if they arrive blown I'm covered. I would have easily spent 4k on the same system (without labor) if I went to a store and purchased it. Unfortunatly JL does not sell over the Internet and the places around me who do sell their stuff want full retail and I'm not paying full retail. The HU I did buy from an authorized Internet dealer. One with an outstanding record of service and one that I have been buying from for years. I figured there is a lot of electronics in the HU and that is not something I want to get stuck with if it breaks in 6 months.
So if you want to start small...Just put 4 Infinity's in. Cut the Bose connectors off the current speakers, wire that to the new Infinity's and see how you like that. Make sure you mark which wires go to the mids and the tweets before cutting them!! If you don't you'll have a very tough time figuring out which wires go where. I did not do this but had the service manual wire diagrams so I was saved. If you do sail panel you need to pull the wires from the hatch speakers back which is very easy to do. Took me 1/2 hour in total. Cut the connector off the 4" speaker in the hatch and wire that directly to the Infinity xover. You don't need the xover for the front speakers if using the stock HU and amp. This way you can always go back to stock easily without cutting any wires from the harness. You would just need new Monsoon speakers or to solder the connector wires back on to your current Monsoon speakers. To be honest the 4" speakers in the back do nothing but "fill" and I would not bother replacing those unless you have people who sit in the hatch
Good luck!
Just so you know, the door speakes will get NO BASS at all if you leave the factory Monsoon amp and HU they only get mids and highs. All the bass goes to the subwoofers in the sail panels in the back seat area. Now if you plan to put a 8-12" sub in, the fact that the doors will get no bass may not matter. Without a real sub they will sound like *** without any bass IMO.
Buying a sub and an amp is not as easy as it sounds either. What are you planning to use for an input? Line level? Where are you going to pull that from? The Monsoon amp takes a line level signal from the HU and amplifies an already crappy signal. If you amp it again it will be mostly distortion and the sub won't last a week. If you have a wiring diagram and you pull the leads going into the Monsoon amp and tap those for the sub amp you're still dealing with a pretty distorted line level signal from the Monsoon HU.
It is your car so do whatever makes you happy but I'd do more reading before you just go out and buy a sub box and amps or you'll be left holding the bill for a system that does not sound that good. On a tight budget all I would do is buy 2 sets of Kappa's pull the door speakers and sail panel subs and pull the hatch wiring back to the sail panels and leave it at that. Anything more and you will pay over 1k for something decent or be left in a worse position (sound wise) then you are now.
You can also find Kappa's on ebay for ~70 bucks a pair. I will tell you that the 62.7i's are pretty "bright" speakers to begin with and they are only a 2 way. Adding a "super tweeter" is a bit overkill in a 4th gen unless you enjoy bleeding ears. Of course that is just my opinion
Buying a sub and an amp is not as easy as it sounds either. What are you planning to use for an input? Line level? Where are you going to pull that from? The Monsoon amp takes a line level signal from the HU and amplifies an already crappy signal. If you amp it again it will be mostly distortion and the sub won't last a week. If you have a wiring diagram and you pull the leads going into the Monsoon amp and tap those for the sub amp you're still dealing with a pretty distorted line level signal from the Monsoon HU.
It is your car so do whatever makes you happy but I'd do more reading before you just go out and buy a sub box and amps or you'll be left holding the bill for a system that does not sound that good. On a tight budget all I would do is buy 2 sets of Kappa's pull the door speakers and sail panel subs and pull the hatch wiring back to the sail panels and leave it at that. Anything more and you will pay over 1k for something decent or be left in a worse position (sound wise) then you are now.
You can also find Kappa's on ebay for ~70 bucks a pair. I will tell you that the 62.7i's are pretty "bright" speakers to begin with and they are only a 2 way. Adding a "super tweeter" is a bit overkill in a 4th gen unless you enjoy bleeding ears. Of course that is just my opinion
Originally Posted by Mike02Z
Just so you know, the door speakes will get NO BASS at all if you leave the factory Monsoon amp and HU they only get mids and highs. All the bass goes to the subwoofers in the sail panels in the back seat area. Now if you plan to put a 8-12" sub in, the fact that the doors will get no bass may not matter. Without a real sub they will sound like *** without any bass IMO.
Buying a sub and an amp is not as easy as it sounds either. What are you planning to use for an input? Line level? Where are you going to pull that from? The Monsoon amp takes a line level signal from the HU and amplifies an already crappy signal. If you amp it again it will be mostly distortion and the sub won't last a week. If you have a wiring diagram and you pull the leads going into the Monsoon amp and tap those for the sub amp you're still dealing with a pretty distorted line level signal from the Monsoon HU.
It is your car so do whatever makes you happy but I'd do more reading before you just go out and buy a sub box and amps or you'll be left holding the bill for a system that does not sound that good. On a tight budget all I would do is buy 2 sets of Kappa's pull the door speakers and sail panel subs and pull the hatch wiring back to the sail panels and leave it at that. Anything more and you will pay over 1k for something decent or be left in a worse position (sound wise) then you are now.
You can also find Kappa's on ebay for ~70 bucks a pair. I will tell you that the 62.7i's are pretty "bright" speakers to begin with and they are only a 2 way. Adding a "super tweeter" is a bit overkill in a 4th gen unless you enjoy bleeding ears. Of course that is just my opinion
Buying a sub and an amp is not as easy as it sounds either. What are you planning to use for an input? Line level? Where are you going to pull that from? The Monsoon amp takes a line level signal from the HU and amplifies an already crappy signal. If you amp it again it will be mostly distortion and the sub won't last a week. If you have a wiring diagram and you pull the leads going into the Monsoon amp and tap those for the sub amp you're still dealing with a pretty distorted line level signal from the Monsoon HU.
It is your car so do whatever makes you happy but I'd do more reading before you just go out and buy a sub box and amps or you'll be left holding the bill for a system that does not sound that good. On a tight budget all I would do is buy 2 sets of Kappa's pull the door speakers and sail panel subs and pull the hatch wiring back to the sail panels and leave it at that. Anything more and you will pay over 1k for something decent or be left in a worse position (sound wise) then you are now.
You can also find Kappa's on ebay for ~70 bucks a pair. I will tell you that the 62.7i's are pretty "bright" speakers to begin with and they are only a 2 way. Adding a "super tweeter" is a bit overkill in a 4th gen unless you enjoy bleeding ears. Of course that is just my opinion
Originally Posted by 1QuickBlkZ28
I'm replacing the the stock amp. The front door speakers dont get any bass? so would I need to replace the stock H/U to get bass to the door speakers or will an aftermarket amp fix that?
