T/A Sub Replacement--non Monsoon ?
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From: NE Ohio
T/A Sub Replacement--non Monsoon ? I've read the sticky and searched, just kinda want a "yes that should work fine" type answer since most, if not all the info I find is for the Monsoon system.
I want to replace the subs in my Firebirds 10 Speaker system. Any reason I cant use the JL 6W0 as a factory replacement part?
Will this require any modification to fit?
I really dont want to drop much $$$ into a system, but I've been driving around for about 2 years with my front speakers/subs blown. The little 4" speakers/tweeters in the rear hatch just arent cutting it with LT's/ORY/!Cat/Open Borla.
Any help would be much apperciated!
I want to replace the subs in my Firebirds 10 Speaker system. Any reason I cant use the JL 6W0 as a factory replacement part?
Will this require any modification to fit?
I really dont want to drop much $$$ into a system, but I've been driving around for about 2 years with my front speakers/subs blown. The little 4" speakers/tweeters in the rear hatch just arent cutting it with LT's/ORY/!Cat/Open Borla.
Any help would be much apperciated!
They are the right diameter, but that magnet looks to be pretty big. I'm having doubts that you'd have enough clearance in the back and would have to make some cuts/poundings or use a spacer.
On a more important note, I think that his way too much driver to use in the stock setup. If your monsoon setup is otherwise stock you won't be utilizing those subs very well at all.
If you want to do just speakers (no new amp or h/u), I would recommend you just pick up 4 solid coaxials (for less than these two subs would cost) like infinities. Bi-wire them up front just like stock. Use the existing 2 ohm connections for the back woofer, and run the 4" speaker wires up the the rear tweeter.
Same money, much better results.
Oh, and those back 4" speakers sound terrible, you don't need them. The coaxials you buy also don't have to be 2 ohms, you just need to be able to biamp them.
On a more important note, I think that his way too much driver to use in the stock setup. If your monsoon setup is otherwise stock you won't be utilizing those subs very well at all.
If you want to do just speakers (no new amp or h/u), I would recommend you just pick up 4 solid coaxials (for less than these two subs would cost) like infinities. Bi-wire them up front just like stock. Use the existing 2 ohm connections for the back woofer, and run the 4" speaker wires up the the rear tweeter.
Same money, much better results.
Oh, and those back 4" speakers sound terrible, you don't need them. The coaxials you buy also don't have to be 2 ohms, you just need to be able to biamp them.
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From: NE Ohio
Originally Posted by todddchi
They are the right diameter, but that magnet looks to be pretty big. I'm having doubts that you'd have enough clearance in the back and would have to make some cuts/poundings or use a spacer.
On a more important note, I think that his way too much driver to use in the stock setup. If your monsoon setup is otherwise stock you won't be utilizing those subs very well at all.
If you want to do just speakers (no new amp or h/u), I would recommend you just pick up 4 solid coaxials (for less than these two subs would cost) like infinities. Bi-wire them up front just like stock. Use the existing 2 ohm connections for the back woofer, and run the 4" speaker wires up the the rear tweeter.
Same money, much better results.
Oh, and those back 4" speakers sound terrible, you don't need them. The coaxials you buy also don't have to be 2 ohms, you just need to be able to biamp them.
On a more important note, I think that his way too much driver to use in the stock setup. If your monsoon setup is otherwise stock you won't be utilizing those subs very well at all.
If you want to do just speakers (no new amp or h/u), I would recommend you just pick up 4 solid coaxials (for less than these two subs would cost) like infinities. Bi-wire them up front just like stock. Use the existing 2 ohm connections for the back woofer, and run the 4" speaker wires up the the rear tweeter.
Same money, much better results.
Oh, and those back 4" speakers sound terrible, you don't need them. The coaxials you buy also don't have to be 2 ohms, you just need to be able to biamp them.
I dont have the Monsoon system....prior to 96?? they had a similar 10 speaker setup but without the Monsoon amp. I dont know whats different...
Wouldnt what you suggest mess up how the current amp routes the power? And what would happen with the existing 7 band EQ?
I know next to nothing about ar stereos....but having just thse couple rear hatch speakers isnt cutting it!
Sorry I didn't notice the 94 model... what you have is a bose setup and I know precisely zilch about those setups.
They are still overkill though, I can say that much. The Bose amps aren't any better than the monsoon.
They are still overkill though, I can say that much. The Bose amps aren't any better than the monsoon.
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From: Massachusetts
Thread Starter
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From: NE Ohio
Originally Posted by todddchi
Sorry I didn't notice the 94 model... what you have is a bose setup and I know precisely zilch about those setups.
They are still overkill though, I can say that much. The Bose amps aren't any better than the monsoon.
They are still overkill though, I can say that much. The Bose amps aren't any better than the monsoon.
Overkill is probably right, but there doesnt seem to be many 6" sub choices...
Would these possibly sound any worse than a blown sub? I can get them for $70/each, which doesnt seem too bad??
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From: Massachusetts
The ones I linked will be your best option as far as sound, but you might need a speaker spacer for them to fit, and then you will likely have issues with the speaker hitting the sail panel when excursion is high. And you will need an aftermarket amp to push enough power to them.
The JLs will sound better than stock, yes. But if the effiency is pretty low on them (as it probably is) then you might need an external amp as well.
The JLs will sound better than stock, yes. But if the effiency is pretty low on them (as it probably is) then you might need an external amp as well.
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From: NE Ohio
Originally Posted by dragonrage
The ones I linked will be your best option as far as sound, but you might need a speaker spacer for them to fit, and then you will likely have issues with the speaker hitting the sail panel when excursion is high. And you will need an aftermarket amp to push enough power to them.
The JLs will sound better than stock, yes. But if the effiency is pretty low on them (as it probably is) then you might need an external amp as well.
The JLs will sound better than stock, yes. But if the effiency is pretty low on them (as it probably is) then you might need an external amp as well.
When you say "the effiency is pretty low", what are you refereing to?
I had hoped to avoid adding an amp (extra weight and $$)....but, if I have to go that route.....how big of an amp do I need? And how difficult is it to wire in, assuming I'd just want to power the subs? Or will just powering the subs drown out the rest of my speakers?
Sorry for all the ?'s...I'm so sick of having a nice car with a crappy radio
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
If you have the 10 speaker system (option UW2) then you already have an amp for the sail panel subs. It wasn't called a Monsoon system in 94 but it was very similar in the way it was set up.
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From: NE Ohio
Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
If you have the 10 speaker system (option UW2) then you already have an amp for the sail panel subs. It wasn't called a Monsoon system in 94 but it was very similar in the way it was set up.
I think I'm going to try these JL subs....It cant possibly be worse than 2 13 year old blown speakers...
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From: Massachusetts
Originally Posted by CL21376
When you say "the effiency is pretty low", what are you refereing to?
Reasonably high sensitivity is about 90dB 1W/1m or 92-93dB 2.83V/1m. If you don't have a nice amp, I wouldn't go lower than 87-88dB 1W/1m, because you won't get much volume out of it. Those Mpyre 65Xs are somewhere in the neighborhood of 84-85dB 1W/1m. They will play deep, but you need to have room for them and power for them.
the eu-700 is another option to replace the 6.5 factory subs. they have dual 2ohm and dual 4 ohm. although you might still have the same issues with them as with other aftermarket subs... clearance!
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From: TAMPA,FLORIDA
if you are gona go that far i would buy a small amp to replace the factory one buy the way it looks it cant be more than 20x2 it only runs the subsit not the bose or monson very weak gm tring something new here is the link i posted if you want wiring colors i can figure it out
https://ls1tech.com/forums/wiring-stereo-electronics/585781-factory-amp-location-pictures-93-t.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/wiring-stereo-electronics/585781-factory-amp-location-pictures-93-t.html
i have 6w0s in the sail panels they bolt right in but had to be mounted sideways so the termials would clear not that it matters that the speaker is sideways. sounds ok but lacks punch due to the sensitivity, i actualy bought a 200w soundstream amp for it today ill let ya know how it works out
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From: NE Ohio
Originally Posted by ta12sec
i have 6w0s in the sail panels they bolt right in but had to be mounted sideways so the termials would clear not that it matters that the speaker is sideways. sounds ok but lacks punch due to the sensitivity, i actualy bought a 200w soundstream amp for it today ill let ya know how it works out
I made it about 1 day before I got an amp to drive them with.
Ditched my factory non-monsoon amp, cut the harness, extended the wires and attached them to the speaker level connector that came with the amp.
Took out my rear seats and seatbelts, mounted the amp to the floor and folded the seat back down--kinda ghetto, huh?
Sounds about 5000 x's better than stock...
