rotwiler

iTrader: (1)

I have the flip up box that is no longer made. The thing is great and if they still made them I would by another one in vinyl with the bowtie. Easy to remove and hits hard even with starting out subs.

sgt0704

iTrader: (3)

does your hatch close? that box looks huge. or does it go over the back seats?

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Nope, not OK.

You can get a box roughly 9x17x38 and end up with over 2 cu ft easy and the hatch will still close and you won't obscure your rear vision. I'm seriously considering doing this myself, but I will lower the height a little and extend the box forward some as I don't use my backseat area. I could even fit a pair of 15's in there with 4-5 cu ft. Amp rack and stuff can fit across the front so it can be seen behind the front seats.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Here's a few pics of systems that don't extend into the rear storage area.

PS, I'm trying to do something similar and want the rear storage area for carrying my junk.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...49#post5649349

sgt0704

iTrader: (3)

That Red Box Is Sweet.

texasreb18

iTrader: (1)

here is one that i made for about $50

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

I did some testing by moving my 12" sub around in the car. It's a cube box so it's pretty easy to move around. I did a base reference level with what I had at the time which was a 40hz sine wave. I set my SPL meter on the dash and looped the track.

With the sub in the far back and firing up=111dB
on rear deck and firing to the rear=111 (surprised me)
on rear deck facing forward=109
on rear deck facing up=108 (kind of disappointing)
in the back seat area facing up=106
in the back seat area facing forward=106

If you want to get all your subs are capable of you should mount them in the far back. This is what I'm thinking for me.


For you, you can get a pair of 10's and build a box on the rear deck and aim them to the rear. I would mold it from fiberglass if possible or else get the stealth box with a single 10.
A single 10 in the cubby hole should sound just as loud as a 2 10's firing straight up on the rear deck. Where talking a 3 dB difference which is noticable.

Badass stealth boxes can be got here.
http://www.fbodyaudio.com/cgi-bin/ya...num=1160407326

Lesser one's from Subthump.

presto_z

iTrader: (12)

how easy is it to acess ur spare tire....

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

So far, of all these ideas, non interferes with the spare tire.

KEE AUDIO

iTrader: (65)

Here's my solution to the T-top issue and I put out a conservative 144.6db. How badass are you trying to go??!! I use a Vantage stealth on drivers side and a subthump box on the passenger side. Amplification is through a Fosgate Power Series 600.5 5 channel amp. Subs are JL Audio 10W3V2 D4's. Doors are CDT HD-6 components and CDT CL-6 in the sails. Mine does require removal of the spare tire however. Hasn't been an issue so far! Fingers crossed!!

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

The drivers side stealth boxes are great, but limited in SPL do to the 10" woofers you can fit in them. Putting a sub on the other side is great too, but you lose the spare tire. That's unthinkable to me. I would have to put the spare in the back seat or on the rear deck, but that sucks.

If you have a 12" that works in small sealed boxes, you can get a stealth box that is molded to maximize the space. I think you can get 1 cu ft. out of it.

Walking-dead, since my theoretical setup puts out the same SPL as if the sub where mounted in a far back like yours, what kind of SPL do you think a single, high excursion 15" in a sealed box with 1200 watts going to it would do?

144.6 is a big number, right? Think my setup would do about that?

Lubricant

subthump box with t-top holders in my sig.

KEE AUDIO

iTrader: (65)

Theresa guy with a similar set up (sub in the rear hatch area) to mine did with 1 12in. Image Dynamics iDMAX12v.3 in a 1.8 cu. ft. enclosure sealed. He had a Tru Technology T03 2.250 watt amp bridged to it. His goal was 135db but he was pushing 140db from it. As far as the size of the sub and power of the amp your speaking of it really depends on what kind of sub and what kind of amp. Personally I wouldn't go anything bigger than a 12 or pair of 12's. Possibly a 13in. sub like a 13w7 or similar. JL has the 13W3 also which is pretty nice for a moderate system. My suggestion is a 12-13in. sub in a custom stealth enclosure with about 250-500watts running it bridged mono. Enclosure should have no less than 1 cu. ft. sealed with matting inside. To do this the enclosure would have to extend into the upper area by the speaker. Fiberglass and mdf would be the best materials with a bondo/resin milkshake coating for strength. That set up in an F-body should be good for 140-150db I would think. Just use quality peices of equipment. I've seen guys with 15in. pyramid subs and a 1000watt jenson amp just thinkin they were the $h@!. Then a guy with a good amp and sub pulls up and anihilates them with a 12in. subwoofer. You may want to consider a 12in. solobaric as well. They seem to make pretty big numbers fairly easily. A 15 would take up too much room. This is just MY opinion though...and opinions are like a$$holes so... and as far as 144 being a big number...it's a fairly big number for what I run as far as amp and subs go. I can probably squeeze a little more out but I rarely listen to music with that much bass. I am only running about 400watts to the subs. If you must run a 15in. sub with 1000watts to it you might get in the 150's using quality equipment. Maybe 155. Good luck!!

Mike02Z

iTrader: (13)

You really think you need a spare? I would never put that donut spare on my car. My sidewalls are so stiff I could ride on them for a few miles without them ever really going really flat. I keep one of those portable compressors in my hatch area in the event I do have an issue with a tire but when I first put my tires on I noticed one looked low and when I checked it it had 2 lbs of air in it. The bead did not seal right but I still drove it down to the station with no problem. The sidewall of a 35 series tire is pretty stiff. I chucked my spare a while ago. I guess if you have factory tires you might want a spare but even then I don't think I'd want to risk driving my car with that POS donut on it...

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

I'm using all high quality parts with my setup. The 15" will probably be either a JBL GTi or a Rockford T1 and the amps are old school Rockford 225.2's which are class AB and seroius sound quality. Not like the newer mono sub amps like class D. These things are super quick and tight, but really drain the electrical system.

It will look something like this.


I want a good mix of sound quality with the ability to pound the ground and annoy people when the mood strikes me. I've never had my SPL measured, but I'm guessing it will be pretty impressive.

As far as a spare, I don't go anywhere with out it. I'm not going to f*ck up a $300 tire and a $300 rim by trying to drive on it. No way. On long trips I throw a full sized spare in the back, but either way I always have the donut spare, jack and tools. One of the important things about my box design is I can move the tools and junk from the T-top area and drop my 315 tire in there if I do ever get a flat. I just like being always prepared and independant. No waiting on flat bed tow trucks for me or leaving my car alone to walk to a gas station if there's no cell phone coverage.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Walking-dead, here is a quote from another competitor:
So figure you lose about 6 dB by halving the cone area and a single JL10w3 with a good 1000w amp on it should do a good 140+. That should be pretty good. I wouldn't try to run a 12 in too small a box as the upper bass gets stronger, but the lower bass gets weaker and it starts to sound crappy.

So ls1CASPER, how about a single 10" and if it's not enough, you could ditch the spare and run a second 10"? If you know you want more than 2 10's can provide, there is always the t-top box for 2 12's that fits in the hatch.

I'm just trying to do something unique with my car and use up the dead space in the rear seat area. I want to keep the T-top area clear for other reasons, but the end result is the same.

KEE AUDIO

iTrader: (65)

DJ Sexay from F-body audio wrote that I think. I was talking to him about my set-up to get ideas on what I would put down with what I had. His wife had similar subs to mine with more power to them. 1000watts to be exact. I never touched my remote bass **** and I only used 2 songs. I had one song more that actually feels stronger...different frequency that I also did not use. There were some things I should have tried but I knew that number was good enough at the time to win my class. Next time I will go hell bent for leather...if it blows...it blows. I have 2 more JL's I can put in if needed.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, that was Mike I quoted (DJSexay). He's been competing for quite a long time and knows his stuff.

like the view?

If you want a badd *** system than take out your rear seats and get a custom fiberglass box built there.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

That would only be true if your definition of a badass system is based on looks, because you automatically lose about 5 dB by having the subs in the rear seat area. If you mean badass in loudness, the back hatch area is king.