Horn doesnt work, fuse is good.
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From: Long Island, NY
ok whitebird think i got some bad news. i just did the tests now in the large conector under the dash to the left. i saw what appeared to be a black in the 2nd spot and like the 7th spot. i could not get a ground from either when using a red under there as a hot. i moved along to the 11 pin conector right at the colum. now i noticed a black as the 4th wire from the bottom it. could not get a ground there either when pressing the panic or the horn itself. is there a chance maybe my panic is set to not beep ? where do i go from here ? i wanted to take a look in the wheel but was unsure with the airbag. thanks alot, seems like i got a pita problem here.
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Well, before jumping to conclusions, check that the red wire you used is actually a good power source by testing to a known good ground such as the dash grounding bolt behind the left kick panel. That's just to eliminate the possibility of doing unnecessary further testing.
The black wire in the 7th position is the correct one as is the one in the 4th position of the column connector. You should see that there are actually two black wires in that column connector 4th position because that's where the wire from the BCM connects to the circuit.
I don't know of any way the panic alarm can be turned off but the panic alarm was only available with option code UA6 - the vehicle alarm system. If the car has only keyless entry without the alarm system then that would make some of your results make more sense. If that is the case then I'm afraid you'll have to remove the steering wheel to do any more diagnostics. You'll have to test for good contact at the slip ring and continuity in the horn switches.
The black wire in the 7th position is the correct one as is the one in the 4th position of the column connector. You should see that there are actually two black wires in that column connector 4th position because that's where the wire from the BCM connects to the circuit.
I don't know of any way the panic alarm can be turned off but the panic alarm was only available with option code UA6 - the vehicle alarm system. If the car has only keyless entry without the alarm system then that would make some of your results make more sense. If that is the case then I'm afraid you'll have to remove the steering wheel to do any more diagnostics. You'll have to test for good contact at the slip ring and continuity in the horn switches.
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the red was fine i did what you stated before i used it. as for 2 black wires in spot #4 i dont remember seing 2. i just saw 1 in the pin. i am not able to confirm that code b/c my door codes faded away. could my problem be i only saw 1 black at pin 4 ? if not are there any walkthroughs of taking the wheel apart ? thanks
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Actually, the lack of a second wire would probably be due to not having the alarm. The BCM has no involvement in the circuit unless the alarm is installed. You can check the dash beside the defroster vent to see if the red LED for the alarm is there.
Try applying ground to the black wire at the steering column connector using a jumper wire - the horn should blow. That way you'll know that the wiring from the column to the relay and then to the horns is good.
I would test the horn switch first before going to the trouble of removing the wheel to test the contact ring. Just remove the pad and you'll see the switch with a yellow and a red wire (one switch has two contacts to handle both sides of the pad). Try applying ground to either of those wires using a jumper wire. If the horns blow then you'll know the switch is the problem and you won't have to worry about the contact ring.
Try applying ground to the black wire at the steering column connector using a jumper wire - the horn should blow. That way you'll know that the wiring from the column to the relay and then to the horns is good.
I would test the horn switch first before going to the trouble of removing the wheel to test the contact ring. Just remove the pad and you'll see the switch with a yellow and a red wire (one switch has two contacts to handle both sides of the pad). Try applying ground to either of those wires using a jumper wire. If the horns blow then you'll know the switch is the problem and you won't have to worry about the contact ring.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,329
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Make sure the ignition is off then remove the AIRBAG fuse to disable the airbag system. The manual suggests also disconnecting the airbag harness connector at the base of the steering column but that probably isn't necessary for what you're doing. I have also heard that you should wait about five minutes because the airbag system is capable of deploying for that long after losing power.
There are four #30 Torx bits on the back of the steering wheel that hold the pad on. Remove them and the pad will come right off (except for the electrical connectors).
There are four #30 Torx bits on the back of the steering wheel that hold the pad on. Remove them and the pad will come right off (except for the electrical connectors).
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finally got it today. i was testing a different harness at the column one which had like a green foam around it. today i spotted a black connector on the actual column. tested grnd and it worked with the horn button. traced the wire and found that it was cut and taped back up and the wire separated. put a crimp connector on and it worked. didnt sound as loud as my camaro i was thinking maybe the high horn is dead. thats taken care of and thanks whitebird. now i have a slight lumbar problem i am gonna make a thread about
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