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Installing a Gentek mirror?

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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 12:19 PM
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Default Installing a Gentek mirror?

I just bought a GENTEK GENK-60 with self dimming mirror, HomeLink, temp, compass and map lights. It comes with a wide flat connector that is supposed to get stuffed up above the headliner. I have a convertible so there is only a small headliner-like piece under the windshield. Has anyone wired up one of these before? I think I can get access to things if I remove the visors and the roof clamp brackets. It looks like the stock mirror wires go down the driver side pillar but I am not sure. Just looking for advice from anyone who has already tried putting one in.
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 03:44 PM
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Did the same install with same mirror on my T/A - but it's not a vert so things may be different. I was able to tie into the wires under the headliner that fed the stock mirror - but the temp. sensor wire obviously had to be run seperate. I don't know where the wires originally came from that ended up under the headliner by the mirror, but I ran the temp. sensor wire across and down the PS pillar, then out thru the PCM grommet on PS.

Make sure you mount the temp. sensor itself in FRONT of the radiator and lower air dam. I mounted mine to the rad core support. That way it gets un-obstructed air flow and a more accurate reading. I had it too far under the engine bay the first time and it gave flase readings due to underhood heat...

-Jay-
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 04:16 PM
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Did yours have the wide but flat connector too? I figured I would tap into the wires that are already there and run the new ones as you say. Did you have enough wire for the temperature sensor? Just looking at it, it seems too short. What exactly did you clip the sensor onto? Also just wondering how you liked the map light brightness, I have no other dome light without them, I hope they are reasonably bright.
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 08:59 AM
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On mine, I ran the wires down the right A pillar, put the little box under the glovebox, and made all my connections there. I ran the temp sensor out through the PCM grommet and mounted it to the horn bracket so it would be away from engine heat.

I don't know how you could hook up properly to the factory wiring at the mirror because the connector has only battery power, ground, and courtesy light control wires. There's no ignition controlled power so the mirror display would be on all the time connected to the dark blue with white (battery) wire.
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 09:21 AM
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I bench tested the mirror last night. That is one inert temperature sensor, I tried to warm it up with my hands and it took forever to move up one tick, but the displayed was around room temperature at least. I unplugged the sensor and plugged it in again and that made it mad, it read some temperature like 5 F. The manual says to leave it off for 2.5 hours to correct that, which I did, and its back to room temperature again.

I was just surprised at how slow the response was.
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 08:16 PM
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I did that same mirror on my convertible.

I needed to replace the flat connector with a small square connector to get it to fit under our little "headliner".
You're not supposed to cut the sensor wires, and I think mine is off a few degrees now. I mounted the sensor under the bumper (under the turn light).
The original wires run down the driver's side. I but the box behind the panel under the steering column.

My big booboo was accidently splicing into a light wire instead of ignition. It took me a couple weeks to figure out why it only worked in my garage and at night.
I actually wrote up some instructions... if I can find it back. The pictures I took were pretty bad.
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 09:17 PM
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I needed to replace the flat connector with a small square connector to get it to fit under our little "headliner".
I was wondering about getting it to fit. What kid of connector did you use?

You're not supposed to cut the sensor wires, and I think mine is off a few degrees now.
Where did you cut into the sensor wires to extend them? If it is a thermocouple (which takes some very sensitive circuits to read), only the junction in the sensor matters. You would be able to splice in equal lengths of copper wire with no effect. If its a thermistor (more likely) then the total resistance of the sensor plus the attached wiring is part of the total sensor calibration. Adding in any wire would alter it by some amount. I cannot tell if the sensor wires are normal copper or not. Yours should be changing degree for degree with a fairly fixed offset from the real temperature since the only significant change in resistance over temperature occurs in the sensor. You should be able to remove the extra wire and get your accuracy back.
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 10:23 PM
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Here's a picture of my kit



Originally Posted by BJM
I was wondering about getting it to fit. What kid of connector did you use?
I got the connector from: www.allelectronics.com Look under "connectors (multi pin)"
Here's a picture of the huge flat connector and the square one I used...



Originally Posted by BJM
.... You should be able to remove the extra wire and get your accuracy back.
You may be right, I think I added roughly the length of the connector wire (X2). My sensor wire was plenty long enough to reach the bumper.
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 10:34 PM
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How bright are the map lights? Same as factory mirror? Also, does it still do the theatre dimming thing or do they just snap off?
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 10:41 PM
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Here's a couple other related pictures:
Under Hood
Under Bumper
Under Dash
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by BJM
How bright are the map lights? Same as factory mirror? Also, does it still do the theatre dimming thing or do they just snap off?
I'd say the brightness is about the same. And they do dim-out like the original.

(Since convertibles don't have a real dome light, we tend to be sensitive about possibly making a bad situation worst. I added lights under the dash and in the trunk some time ago, and yes they dim also)
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 12:09 PM
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I just finished the install of the mirror. So far so good. I wired the constant +12V, the switched 12V and the ground into the radio circuit. I went down the right hand pillar. I also ran a wire from the white wire that runs to the stock mirror to trigger the map light at the same time the interior lights go on. I ran that wire down to the little lighting relay box that is at the far end of the mirror harness (now next to the radio).

The only thing that isn't perfect is the theatre dimming doesn't work. The other lights dim out, but the mirror lights basically stay on until the other are 3/4 dimmed and then they snap off. I can also hear the mirror's light relay buzz a little from the theatre dimming power provided by the BCM. It a minor thing but I am assuming it cannot easily be fixed. The map lights seem a little better than the factory mirror lights so that is good. I finally noticed that Camaros don't have footwell lights (duh).

I placed the temperature probe up front just slightly above the bottom of the bumper so it would not get scraped on anything. Its on the right hand side just to the side of the air stream going into the radiator. I think its reading slightly warmer than actual so far but I have to drive it some more.
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 04:09 PM
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I don't understand why your theater dimming doesn't work? If you hooked up the mirror lights to the original wire that powered the original lights they should be the same.

My map lights dim as before and are actually brighter as they are LED's and the factory bulbs were not...

-Jay-
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