Havok2

iTrader: (118)

i can get a brand new one for $100

Optima D35 Yellowtop Battery

# Voltage: 12v
# Minimum Weight: 36.4 lbs.
# Cold Cranking Amps: 32°F 810, 0° 650
# Length X Width X Height: 9.31 X 6.81 X 7.63"
# Capacity Ampere Hours @ 20 Hr Rate: 48
# Reserve Capacity: 98
# Internal Resistance (ohms): .0030
# Post Type: SAE Post


im in the market for a battery

was thinking for about $35 bucks more i can get a badass battery, beter than wal mart and auto zone and them stores

should i get it? or its not really needed? save myself the 35 bucks?

MEZA TA

iTrader: (5)

I'd go ahead and get it.....i'm no expert or anything but i'm pretty sure they're wayyyy better. I'm about to grab a red top myself because apparently I need one because of the stereo system that i've got. I can play it longer without having the car running and start back up without a glitch.

Element

iTrader: (5)

Eh, nothing special unless you actually NEED to run a dry cell due to mounting location. That, along with the ability to being them back to full charge - and hold it - after they've been run down pretty far, is the only advantage they have over regular batteries.

For normal purposes, they're extremely overrated.

Element

iTrader: (5)

A red top is just the standard starter battery....if you want something that'll be able to do what you want, you'd want the yellow top. Deep cycle, designed as a marine battery if I remember right. It's the one with significant advantages when it comes to really using the power up, and being able ot recharge it without an issue.

I believe the yellow also has fewer CCAs and WCAs, but it's been a while since I looked at Optimas.

Snootch

iTrader: (3)

I'm glad I spent the extra $ on a yellow top. It cost me around $150. I've killed my battery three times (don't ask.. stupid carPC) and I jumped it and it recharged back to normal... no problems. I do notice that after that it doesn't seem to have the capacity it once did. I asked a good installer friend about it and he said to kill the battery dead as a doornail intentionally, pull it out of the car and let it trickle charge on a battery charger for a few days. That should restore some of the missing capacity. (This particular installer has been installing for 12 years, built two cars that were on the cover of Car Audio & Electronics, plus four IASCA SPL vehicles, so I tend to believe him)

2MuchRiceMakesMeSick

that and they last forever. I know I had one for 5+ years in one of my last cars

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Both the Yellow and Red Optimas are gell cell, not dry cell. They are sealed, though. Thats one great thing, they don't corrode the terminals. Everything stays nice and clean, plus they can be mounted inside if need be.

The yellows are good if you plan to run them down, but they have a short 1 year free replacement.

The reds are good for everyday use where you don't plan to run them way down. They are cheaper and have a 3 year free replacement.

I have a CarPC as well and the dang Opus 150 is designed to maintain standby power which is good if you use Standby, but pulls excess power and will kill a battery in like 6 months. I'm going to swap it out or mod it and then pop in a new red top under warranty.

I actually plan to run 2 new red tops in parallel to handle my new sound system.

MikeFbody

iTrader: (2)

redtops are not recommended for high load systems such as stereo's and car pc's. It's just a tougher starting battery. I certainly would not design a system that parralels 2 redtops.

Yellow tops are designed for just this purpose. Using a redtop with any sort of aftermarket gear actually voids it's warranty.

mike

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

The red and yellow tops are basically the same battery but with a different gell mixture which aids in the regenerative process. It does reduce the power of the yellows slightly as well.

I see no reason why the reds would not be good for stereos. So far it has proven to be excellent. I also don't plan to run them down or deep cycle them or be in a competition (engine off) or anything like that. That would be better suited to the yellows.

PS. If the store asks if I run them on a big sound system or a winch, I'll simply say no.

MikeFbody

iTrader: (2)

the fact that you want 2 means you intend on running them down, why else would you parralel 2 (for more engine off playing time).

bottom line, is if you want to play your system with the engine off, go with yellow.

I've been using yellows as my starting battery with no issues, I see absolutely no reason to use a red top unless you were building a race car and wanted a gel cel battery in the trunk.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

OK, I see now where you are assuming the wrong thing.

I have no intention of "running them down" or even listening with the engine off. (well, maybe for no more than 2 minutes or so).

The reason I want 2 bats is to supply enough current to the amps to keep the voltage from dipping. I'll have 2100w of class A/B amps to feed. Maybe more depending on how many more amps I'll add.

I want the dual batteries and the 235 amp alternator to try and keep the voltage really high on transients. As the voltage gets lower, so does the amps power.

Element

iTrader: (5)

Better alternator. I was running 2500w RMS of power on a Wal-Mart batter (Everstart MAXX, hell of a battery) and a stock alternator. Never saw voltage drop that would have caused me to go with either a HO alt (notorious for poor charging at idle speeds) or using more than one battery. Of course, I rarely just sat in the car with the system running, so the alternator was always spinning and producing a decent bit of amperage.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

I was thinking about this last night. Generally the rule of thumb is one battery per 1,000 watts, but since the battery itself is only capable of sustaining 12.6 volts by itself and since the car is actually running off the alternator when the engine is running it kind of doesn't make sense for me. I mean, in theory the voltage would need to drop down to below 12.6 for the battery to come into play and I want to make sure it doesn't even get below 14v. So I'm not real sure about this. I'll probably just get my big alt, redo the the BIG3 cables and see how it performs with the single battery. I could always add a second later on if I wanted, but see no point in it right now.

Anyone have any thoughts on this?

MikeFbody

iTrader: (2)

EXACTLY!!

which is why I was confused as to why you wanted parallel batteries with no intention of extended engine off play.

In a big SPL rig, even the biggest alternators out there are not going to power your system. You are going to be running off of batteries no matter what. Which is why some guys use 16 volt batteries.

But for your listenable street system, batteries are for handling engine off play. For what you want, only solution is the biggest, beefiest alternator you can find.

I never ever heard of a 1 battery per thousand watts rule, only the marketing driven 1 farad cap per thousand watts.

mike

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

I'm starting to think that "rule" is mainly for engine off systems capable of high SPL and I'm more of a engine on type guy. Anyway, no big deal. One less part to buy.
And yes, if I were the type to play it a lot with the engine off, I would get dual Yellow tops.

It would be nice if someone made 14v batteries.

I'm actually thinking of getting the alternator with a set 14.7v regulator. The amperage will of course vary with load just like a stock alternator, but the voltage would stay high. I need to look into that so I'll save it for another thread.

dirtyblackhoe

iTrader: (6)

I had dual red tops in my Tahoe and I loved them...always started right up and definately were nice

The Guz

iTrader: (8)

I have had a yellow top on my other car for about 4 years now and I have had no problems at all. I say get it.


-Mike