yellow top opyimas
yellow top opyimas i can get a brand new one for $100
Optima D35 Yellowtop Battery
# Voltage: 12v
# Minimum Weight: 36.4 lbs.
# Cold Cranking Amps: 32°F 810, 0° 650
# Length X Width X Height: 9.31 X 6.81 X 7.63"
# Capacity Ampere Hours @ 20 Hr Rate: 48
# Reserve Capacity: 98
# Internal Resistance (ohms): .0030
# Post Type: SAE Post
im in the market for a battery
was thinking for about $35 bucks more i can get a badass battery, beter than wal mart and auto zone and them stores
should i get it? or its not really needed? save myself the 35 bucks?
Optima D35 Yellowtop Battery
# Voltage: 12v
# Minimum Weight: 36.4 lbs.
# Cold Cranking Amps: 32°F 810, 0° 650
# Length X Width X Height: 9.31 X 6.81 X 7.63"
# Capacity Ampere Hours @ 20 Hr Rate: 48
# Reserve Capacity: 98
# Internal Resistance (ohms): .0030
# Post Type: SAE Post
im in the market for a battery
was thinking for about $35 bucks more i can get a badass battery, beter than wal mart and auto zone and them stores
should i get it? or its not really needed? save myself the 35 bucks?
I'd go ahead and get it.....i'm no expert or anything but i'm pretty sure they're wayyyy better. I'm about to grab a red top myself because apparently I need one because of the stereo system that i've got. I can play it longer without having the car running and start back up without a glitch.
Eh, nothing special unless you actually NEED to run a dry cell due to mounting location. That, along with the ability to being them back to full charge - and hold it - after they've been run down pretty far, is the only advantage they have over regular batteries.
For normal purposes, they're extremely overrated.
For normal purposes, they're extremely overrated.
Originally Posted by MEZA TA
I'd go ahead and get it.....i'm no expert or anything but i'm pretty sure they're wayyyy better. I'm about to grab a red top myself because apparently I need one because of the stereo system that i've got. I can play it longer without having the car running and start back up without a glitch.
I believe the yellow also has fewer CCAs and WCAs, but it's been a while since I looked at Optimas.
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From: Showing Italians the power of LS1
I'm glad I spent the extra $ on a yellow top. It cost me around $150. I've killed my battery three times (don't ask.. stupid carPC) and I jumped it and it recharged back to normal... no problems. I do notice that after that it doesn't seem to have the capacity it once did. I asked a good installer friend about it and he said to kill the battery dead as a doornail intentionally, pull it out of the car and let it trickle charge on a battery charger for a few days. That should restore some of the missing capacity. (This particular installer has been installing for 12 years, built two cars that were on the cover of Car Audio & Electronics, plus four IASCA SPL vehicles, so I tend to believe him)
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From: Texas
Originally Posted by Element
Eh, nothing special unless you actually NEED to run a dry cell due to mounting location. That, along with the ability to being them back to full charge - and hold it - after they've been run down pretty far, is the only advantage they have over regular batteries.
For normal purposes, they're extremely overrated.
For normal purposes, they're extremely overrated.
that and they last forever. I know I had one for 5+ years in one of my last cars
Both the Yellow and Red Optimas are gell cell, not dry cell. They are sealed, though. Thats one great thing, they don't corrode the terminals. Everything stays nice and clean, plus they can be mounted inside if need be.
The yellows are good if you plan to run them down, but they have a short 1 year free replacement.
The reds are good for everyday use where you don't plan to run them way down. They are cheaper and have a 3 year free replacement.
I have a CarPC as well and the dang Opus 150 is designed to maintain standby power which is good if you use Standby, but pulls excess power and will kill a battery in like 6 months. I'm going to swap it out or mod it and then pop in a new red top under warranty.
I actually plan to run 2 new red tops in parallel to handle my new sound system.
The yellows are good if you plan to run them down, but they have a short 1 year free replacement.
The reds are good for everyday use where you don't plan to run them way down. They are cheaper and have a 3 year free replacement.
I have a CarPC as well and the dang Opus 150 is designed to maintain standby power which is good if you use Standby, but pulls excess power and will kill a battery in like 6 months. I'm going to swap it out or mod it and then pop in a new red top under warranty.
I actually plan to run 2 new red tops in parallel to handle my new sound system.
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redtops are not recommended for high load systems such as stereo's and car pc's. It's just a tougher starting battery. I certainly would not design a system that parralels 2 redtops.
Yellow tops are designed for just this purpose. Using a redtop with any sort of aftermarket gear actually voids it's warranty.
mike
Yellow tops are designed for just this purpose. Using a redtop with any sort of aftermarket gear actually voids it's warranty.
mike
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Verdad Gallardo The red and yellow tops are basically the same battery but with a different gell mixture which aids in the regenerative process. It does reduce the power of the yellows slightly as well.
I see no reason why the reds would not be good for stereos. So far it has proven to be excellent. I also don't plan to run them down or deep cycle them or be in a competition (engine off) or anything like that. That would be better suited to the yellows.
PS. If the store asks if I run them on a big sound system or a winch, I'll simply say no.
I see no reason why the reds would not be good for stereos. So far it has proven to be excellent. I also don't plan to run them down or deep cycle them or be in a competition (engine off) or anything like that. That would be better suited to the yellows.
PS. If the store asks if I run them on a big sound system or a winch, I'll simply say no.
the fact that you want 2 means you intend on running them down, why else would you parralel 2 (for more engine off playing time).
bottom line, is if you want to play your system with the engine off, go with yellow.
I've been using yellows as my starting battery with no issues, I see absolutely no reason to use a red top unless you were building a race car and wanted a gel cel battery in the trunk.
bottom line, is if you want to play your system with the engine off, go with yellow.
I've been using yellows as my starting battery with no issues, I see absolutely no reason to use a red top unless you were building a race car and wanted a gel cel battery in the trunk.
OK, I see now where you are assuming the wrong thing.
I have no intention of "running them down" or even listening with the engine off. (well, maybe for no more than 2 minutes or so).
The reason I want 2 bats is to supply enough current to the amps to keep the voltage from dipping. I'll have 2100w of class A/B amps to feed. Maybe more depending on how many more amps I'll add.
I want the dual batteries and the 235 amp alternator to try and keep the voltage really high on transients. As the voltage gets lower, so does the amps power.
I have no intention of "running them down" or even listening with the engine off. (well, maybe for no more than 2 minutes or so).
The reason I want 2 bats is to supply enough current to the amps to keep the voltage from dipping. I'll have 2100w of class A/B amps to feed. Maybe more depending on how many more amps I'll add.
I want the dual batteries and the 235 amp alternator to try and keep the voltage really high on transients. As the voltage gets lower, so does the amps power.
Originally Posted by JasonWW
OK, I see now where you are assuming the wrong thing.
I have no intention of "running them down" or even listening with the engine off. (well, maybe for no more than 2 minutes or so).
The reason I want 2 bats is to supply enough current to the amps to keep the voltage from dipping. I'll have 2100w of class A/B amps to feed. Maybe more depending on how many more amps I'll add.
I want the dual batteries and the 235 amp alternator to try and keep the voltage really high on transients. As the voltage gets lower, so does the amps power.
I have no intention of "running them down" or even listening with the engine off. (well, maybe for no more than 2 minutes or so).
The reason I want 2 bats is to supply enough current to the amps to keep the voltage from dipping. I'll have 2100w of class A/B amps to feed. Maybe more depending on how many more amps I'll add.
I want the dual batteries and the 235 amp alternator to try and keep the voltage really high on transients. As the voltage gets lower, so does the amps power.
I was thinking about this last night. Generally the rule of thumb is one battery per 1,000 watts, but since the battery itself is only capable of sustaining 12.6 volts by itself and since the car is actually running off the alternator when the engine is running it kind of doesn't make sense for me. I mean, in theory the voltage would need to drop down to below 12.6 for the battery to come into play and I want to make sure it doesn't even get below 14v. So I'm not real sure about this. I'll probably just get my big alt, redo the the BIG3 cables and see how it performs with the single battery. I could always add a second later on if I wanted, but see no point in it right now.
Anyone have any thoughts on this?
Anyone have any thoughts on this?
EXACTLY!!
which is why I was confused as to why you wanted parallel batteries with no intention of extended engine off play.
In a big SPL rig, even the biggest alternators out there are not going to power your system. You are going to be running off of batteries no matter what. Which is why some guys use 16 volt batteries.
But for your listenable street system, batteries are for handling engine off play. For what you want, only solution is the biggest, beefiest alternator you can find.
I never ever heard of a 1 battery per thousand watts rule, only the marketing driven 1 farad cap per thousand watts.
mike
which is why I was confused as to why you wanted parallel batteries with no intention of extended engine off play.
In a big SPL rig, even the biggest alternators out there are not going to power your system. You are going to be running off of batteries no matter what. Which is why some guys use 16 volt batteries.
But for your listenable street system, batteries are for handling engine off play. For what you want, only solution is the biggest, beefiest alternator you can find.
I never ever heard of a 1 battery per thousand watts rule, only the marketing driven 1 farad cap per thousand watts.
mike
Originally Posted by Mike @ FbodyAudio
I never ever heard of a 1 battery per thousand watts rule.
Anyway, no big deal. One less part to buy. And yes, if I were the type to play it a lot with the engine off, I would get dual Yellow tops.
It would be nice if someone made 14v batteries.
I'm actually thinking of getting the alternator with a set 14.7v regulator. The amperage will of course vary with load just like a stock alternator, but the voltage would stay high. I need to look into that so I'll save it for another thread.
