"correct" 12v ignition switched wiring ?
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From: San Diego, CA
"correct" 12v ignition switched wiring ? OK, wiring question.
I was lazy (LOL) and I have three electrical doodads wired into my stereo wiring since it's convenient and ignition switched. I want to rewire the accessories and solder/heatshrink the connections, and relocate them properly.
It will be easy enough to relocate the grounds by making a new ground point or two under the dash, but what is the "correct" way to run ignition switched 12v power to accessories ? (BTW, it's two Autometer Cobalt gauges and a LC1 wideband O2).
Thanks for any info.
Rob (Bad30th)
I was lazy (LOL) and I have three electrical doodads wired into my stereo wiring since it's convenient and ignition switched. I want to rewire the accessories and solder/heatshrink the connections, and relocate them properly.
It will be easy enough to relocate the grounds by making a new ground point or two under the dash, but what is the "correct" way to run ignition switched 12v power to accessories ? (BTW, it's two Autometer Cobalt gauges and a LC1 wideband O2).
Thanks for any info.
Rob (Bad30th)
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,330
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Originally Posted by Bad30th
OK, wiring question.
I was lazy (LOL) and I have three electrical doodads wired into my stereo wiring since it's convenient and ignition switched. I want to rewire the accessories and solder/heatshrink the connections, and relocate them properly.
It will be easy enough to relocate the grounds by making a new ground point or two under the dash, but what is the "correct" way to run ignition switched 12v power to accessories ? (BTW, it's two Autometer Cobalt gauges and a LC1 wideband O2).
Thanks for any info.
Rob (Bad30th)
I was lazy (LOL) and I have three electrical doodads wired into my stereo wiring since it's convenient and ignition switched. I want to rewire the accessories and solder/heatshrink the connections, and relocate them properly.
It will be easy enough to relocate the grounds by making a new ground point or two under the dash, but what is the "correct" way to run ignition switched 12v power to accessories ? (BTW, it's two Autometer Cobalt gauges and a LC1 wideband O2).
Thanks for any info.
Rob (Bad30th)
You can tap into them using a standard spade (flat) terminal and running the wire out the side of the panel into the dash. To do that you remove the bolt that holds the fuse panel in place and push it back so that you can work with your wire then bolt it back when you're done.
I found it convenient to run a fused wire from each of the three terminals to junction blocks I hid under the dash behind the console. That way I have each type of power easily available behind the dash when I need to add an electrical accessory.
Thread Starter
12 Second Club
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From: San Diego, CA
Thanks for the info.
So, just to be sure I understand, to mimic the RAP functionality of the stereo wiring I'm currently using I should use the ACCY circuit for my hot side connections, right ? I'm guessing that circuit should be able to handle the current draw requirements of the wideband and O2 heater ?
I like the idea of using junction blocks off a fused wire. Where did you get the junction blocks ? Would Radio Shack carry them ?
Cheers,
Rob (Bad30th)
So, just to be sure I understand, to mimic the RAP functionality of the stereo wiring I'm currently using I should use the ACCY circuit for my hot side connections, right ? I'm guessing that circuit should be able to handle the current draw requirements of the wideband and O2 heater ?
I like the idea of using junction blocks off a fused wire. Where did you get the junction blocks ? Would Radio Shack carry them ?
Cheers,
Rob (Bad30th)
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,330
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Originally Posted by Bad30th
Thanks for the info.
So, just to be sure I understand, to mimic the RAP functionality of the stereo wiring I'm currently using I should use the ACCY circuit for my hot side connections, right ? I'm guessing that circuit should be able to handle the current draw requirements of the wideband and O2 heater ?
I like the idea of using junction blocks off a fused wire. Where did you get the junction blocks ? Would Radio Shack carry them ?
Cheers,
Rob (Bad30th)
So, just to be sure I understand, to mimic the RAP functionality of the stereo wiring I'm currently using I should use the ACCY circuit for my hot side connections, right ? I'm guessing that circuit should be able to handle the current draw requirements of the wideband and O2 heater ?
I like the idea of using junction blocks off a fused wire. Where did you get the junction blocks ? Would Radio Shack carry them ?
Cheers,
Rob (Bad30th)
Thread Starter
12 Second Club
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: San Diego, CA
Just a followup - this worked out great.
Although the ACCY port in the fuse panel didn't have a connector in the fuse panel slot where it was supposed to, the IGN port did - and that's what I needed anyway. I used a flat terminal to connect the new wiring at the IGN port and wired my n2o switches, PAC SWI-2, trans temp/boost gauges and wideband O2 into the IGN on a 15a fused wire. I found a nice ground point on the chassis (verified with multimeter) and wired up the ground side. The ILLUM stuff for the two Cobalt gauges I just ran off the stereo ILLUM wire since it's not that much draw.
I soldered/heatshrinked everything inside the dash so I'm confident it was done right and won't come apart.
Now if I can just reprogram the PAC SWI-2 I rewired, LOL... No steering wheel stereo controls this morning on the way to work. Looks like it's coming back out hehe.
Rob (Bad30th)
Although the ACCY port in the fuse panel didn't have a connector in the fuse panel slot where it was supposed to, the IGN port did - and that's what I needed anyway. I used a flat terminal to connect the new wiring at the IGN port and wired my n2o switches, PAC SWI-2, trans temp/boost gauges and wideband O2 into the IGN on a 15a fused wire. I found a nice ground point on the chassis (verified with multimeter) and wired up the ground side. The ILLUM stuff for the two Cobalt gauges I just ran off the stereo ILLUM wire since it's not that much draw.
I soldered/heatshrinked everything inside the dash so I'm confident it was done right and won't come apart.
Now if I can just reprogram the PAC SWI-2 I rewired, LOL... No steering wheel stereo controls this morning on the way to work. Looks like it's coming back out hehe.
Rob (Bad30th)
The "proper" way is to use the three "aftermarket equipment" circuits GM provided in the fuse panel. These are single terminal ports (like half of a fuse port) marked BATT, IGN, and ACCY. The BATT terminal provides constant (battery) power, the IGN terminal provides ignition switched power, and the ACCY terminal provides switched RAP power (like the radio, stays on after the ignition is off until a door is opened).
You can tap into them using a standard spade (flat) terminal and running the wire out the side of the panel into the dash. To do that you remove the bolt that holds the fuse panel in place and push it back so that you can work with your wire then bolt it back when you're done.
I found it convenient to run a fused wire from each of the three terminals to junction blocks I hid under the dash behind the console. That way I have each type of power easily available behind the dash when I need to add an electrical accessory.
You can tap into them using a standard spade (flat) terminal and running the wire out the side of the panel into the dash. To do that you remove the bolt that holds the fuse panel in place and push it back so that you can work with your wire then bolt it back when you're done.
I found it convenient to run a fused wire from each of the three terminals to junction blocks I hid under the dash behind the console. That way I have each type of power easily available behind the dash when I need to add an electrical accessory.
