6.5 Subs to buy
04-12-2007, 08:14 AM
#21
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JL 6w04's I just installed a pair of JL Audio 6W04's in my 01 SS. I needed to run longer speaker wire (about 6-8" for power and ground) and the subs just barely line up with the stock bolt holes. I used double sided tape to reduce vibration/rattles. For an upgrade over the stock Monsoon Subs they are excellent! I ordered them from a local Tweeter store for $90ea. No complaints spending a little more for a great product!
04-12-2007, 02:15 PM
#24
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the only way would be to wire them up to just one pair of the (+)'s and (-)'s. Yeah, they are 4 ohm. The amp would be putting out roughly half of what it was with the stock ones but that's all you can do with a SVC driver and the stock Monsoon amp in the TA. 
It would be neat to see how they sounded in a TA wired off the stock amp though. I have mine mounted with a baffle (to increase the structural rigidity of the mount) and I also have polyfill stuffed into the speaker cavity to help absorb back waves.
It would be neat to see how they sounded in a TA wired off the stock amp though. I have mine mounted with a baffle (to increase the structural rigidity of the mount) and I also have polyfill stuffed into the speaker cavity to help absorb back waves.
04-12-2007, 02:26 PM
#25
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Originally Posted by JR HAWK 9
the only way would be to wire them up to just one pair of the (+)'s and (-)'s. Yeah, they are 4 ohm. The amp would be putting out roughly half of what it was with the stock ones but that's all you can do with a SVC driver and the stock Monsoon amp in the TA. It would be neat to see how they sounded in a TA wired off the stock amp though. I have mine mounted with a baffle (to increase the structural rigidity of the mount) and I also have polyfill stuffed into the speaker cavity to help absorb back waves.
It would be neat to see how they sounded in a TA wired off the stock amp though. I have mine mounted with a baffle (to increase the structural rigidity of the mount) and I also have polyfill stuffed into the speaker cavity to help absorb back waves.About the polyfill though -- do you feel that helped (if so, with what - vibrations?)? I would think it would have a negative effect on sound reproduction since the "cavity" is so large to begin with...
07-09-2007, 01:53 PM
#27
Originally Posted by Walking-dead
The ED subs require you to either cut the inside ofthe sail panel out to make room for the magnet or make a mdf spacer that mounts the sub further out. You have a choice but one or the other is neccessary. Nice sub though!! So sgt. is right either way your gonna have to mod unless you go with a traditional midbass. I used CDT CL-6. Great mid bass for around $80.00. Fits in stock opening. There are a few others as well.
07-10-2007, 02:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Funkster
The 7Kv.2 driver was redesigned a while back so that is no longer neccesary. The terminals are closer to the basket now to allow the driver to fit without modification.
Back of the sub
2" hole drilled, most people do smaller though
Final install, after spacer is installed
07-10-2007, 02:08 AM
#30
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Originally Posted by mag2001
can someone tell me where to get some 6.5 subs online or locally at a store that will replace my blown out sail panels speakers
07-10-2007, 09:32 AM
#33
Originally Posted by witHonor
What he means about modification is that you drill a hole behind the magnet. If you notice on the back of the sub there is a "hole" in the magnet. Cutting a hole behind it allows it to vent. You're right about the terminals, but you may have to bend them in a bit because it is a tight squeeze. The 7Kv.2 is a great addition to a stock set up.
Back of the sub
2" hole drilled, most people do smaller though
Final install, after spacer is installed
Back of the sub
2" hole drilled, most people do smaller though
Final install, after spacer is installed
