Front Blinkers...
04-09-2007, 04:02 PM
#23
I was out of town visiting my parents for the Easter weekend. Did you miss me? 
First, the easy part:
Don't worry about what it might be...it might be that you're parked over a sacred burial ground. 
Seriously, cleaning and/or replacing the socket should solve your problem. If not, we'll have to do some electrical troubleshooting with a test light or multimeter. But I'm confident that the socket will be the problem.
DRL stands for Daytime Running Lights. It's the bright amber lights on the front of your car whenever you're driving without the headlights on. They use the same bulbs as the turn signals.
Now the tougher one:
If the fuse is the problem then your backup lights won't be working either. Put the car in reverse and check if the B/U lights work. If not then replace the fuse. Never rely on a visual inspection of a fuse - always either test it or replace it with a known good fuse. Fuses often look fine even when they're blown. Since all of your signals are out (both front and rear) I suspect the fuse may be the problem. If you replace it (and it doesn't blow again) but the signals still don't work then I can post the procedure for testing the switch. I need to know what model of car - Firebirds and Camaros are wired differently because Camaros have separate turn signal lenses in the back.
First, the easy part:
Originally Posted by ChrisUlrich
If that's not it... what would be your next guess? I'm not even sure what DRL or anything like that is. So I am really hoping that it's the socket
Seriously, cleaning and/or replacing the socket should solve your problem. If not, we'll have to do some electrical troubleshooting with a test light or multimeter. But I'm confident that the socket will be the problem.DRL stands for Daytime Running Lights. It's the bright amber lights on the front of your car whenever you're driving without the headlights on. They use the same bulbs as the turn signals.
Now the tougher one:
Originally Posted by 2tone
Then I go driving, and no more than 15 mins down the road I notice the signals aren't blinking up at all inside or out. Rear or front. But the hazards work front and rear and inside...then I see you said this would probably be caused by the fuse TURN/BU.
04-20-2007, 08:47 AM
#24
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
This should cover everyone's questions...
If you have a problem with your turn signals, the likely cause will depend on the symptoms:
By far the most common problem is that one side works fine but the other side won't flash (the light just stays on solid). This is caused by one or more bulbs being burned out or a corroded socket on the side that doesn't flash. Turn on your hazard flashers and walk around the car looking for the light that doesn't flash. More often than not, it will be the front because the front housings tend to get lots of water in them. Check and replace the bulb then clean or replace the socket. Put some dielectric grease in the socket before reinstalling to help keep water out. It is not possible for this problem to be caused by the flasher because the same flasher controls both sides (so if one side works then the flasher can't be the problem).
If neither side turn signal works and the back up lights don't work either then the problem is the TURN/BU fuse in the fuse panel on the end of the dash.
If neither side turn signal works but the hazard flashers work then the most likely cause is the turn signal flasher. It is a basic 2-prong flasher available from any auto parts store (or even WalMart) for just a couple of dollars. There are also electronic flashers that will continue to flash even with burned out bulbs for around $8. The turn signal flasher is clipped to the back side of the dash just to the right of the opening when you remove the knee panel under the steering column. It is also possible that the switch is the problem but it's not likely.
If neither side turn signal works and the hazard flashers don't work either then the most common cause is the DRL module. It could be burned out or it may have been unplugged either accidentally or in a foolish effort to disable daytime running lights. The DRL module is a black box about the size of a pack of cigarettes that is mounted to the duct behind the radio.
These are the most common causes of problems. It's always possible for other things to cause the same symptoms (damaged wires, etc.) but that requires electrical troubleshooting skills to diagnose.
If you have a problem with your turn signals, the likely cause will depend on the symptoms:
By far the most common problem is that one side works fine but the other side won't flash (the light just stays on solid). This is caused by one or more bulbs being burned out or a corroded socket on the side that doesn't flash. Turn on your hazard flashers and walk around the car looking for the light that doesn't flash. More often than not, it will be the front because the front housings tend to get lots of water in them. Check and replace the bulb then clean or replace the socket. Put some dielectric grease in the socket before reinstalling to help keep water out. It is not possible for this problem to be caused by the flasher because the same flasher controls both sides (so if one side works then the flasher can't be the problem).
If neither side turn signal works and the back up lights don't work either then the problem is the TURN/BU fuse in the fuse panel on the end of the dash.
If neither side turn signal works but the hazard flashers work then the most likely cause is the turn signal flasher. It is a basic 2-prong flasher available from any auto parts store (or even WalMart) for just a couple of dollars. There are also electronic flashers that will continue to flash even with burned out bulbs for around $8. The turn signal flasher is clipped to the back side of the dash just to the right of the opening when you remove the knee panel under the steering column. It is also possible that the switch is the problem but it's not likely.
If neither side turn signal works and the hazard flashers don't work either then the most common cause is the DRL module. It could be burned out or it may have been unplugged either accidentally or in a foolish effort to disable daytime running lights. The DRL module is a black box about the size of a pack of cigarettes that is mounted to the duct behind the radio.
These are the most common causes of problems. It's always possible for other things to cause the same symptoms (damaged wires, etc.) but that requires electrical troubleshooting skills to diagnose.
04-27-2007, 07:12 AM
#25
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
I was out of town visiting my parents for the Easter weekend. Did you miss me?
First, the easy part:
Don't worry about what it might be...it might be that you're parked over a sacred burial ground. Seriously, cleaning and/or replacing the socket should solve your problem. If not, we'll have to do some electrical troubleshooting with a test light or multimeter. But I'm confident that the socket will be the problem.
DRL stands for Daytime Running Lights. It's the bright amber lights on the front of your car whenever you're driving without the headlights on. They use the same bulbs as the turn signals.
Now the tougher one:
If the fuse is the problem then your backup lights won't be working either. Put the car in reverse and check if the B/U lights work. If not then replace the fuse. Never rely on a visual inspection of a fuse - always either test it or replace it with a known good fuse. Fuses often look fine even when they're blown. Since all of your signals are out (both front and rear) I suspect the fuse may be the problem. If you replace it (and it doesn't blow again) but the signals still don't work then I can post the procedure for testing the switch. I need to know what model of car - Firebirds and Camaros are wired differently because Camaros have separate turn signal lenses in the back.
First, the easy part:
Don't worry about what it might be...it might be that you're parked over a sacred burial ground.
Seriously, cleaning and/or replacing the socket should solve your problem. If not, we'll have to do some electrical troubleshooting with a test light or multimeter. But I'm confident that the socket will be the problem.DRL stands for Daytime Running Lights. It's the bright amber lights on the front of your car whenever you're driving without the headlights on. They use the same bulbs as the turn signals.
Now the tougher one:
If the fuse is the problem then your backup lights won't be working either. Put the car in reverse and check if the B/U lights work. If not then replace the fuse. Never rely on a visual inspection of a fuse - always either test it or replace it with a known good fuse. Fuses often look fine even when they're blown. Since all of your signals are out (both front and rear) I suspect the fuse may be the problem. If you replace it (and it doesn't blow again) but the signals still don't work then I can post the procedure for testing the switch. I need to know what model of car - Firebirds and Camaros are wired differently because Camaros have separate turn signal lenses in the back.
I drive a 2001 Z28. I had a feeling it was the switch...I have no idea how to test or fix...
Cheap? Let me know! Thanks 
04-27-2007, 07:25 AM
#26
It's remotely possible that your replacement flasher has also bit the dust. Before going out and buying another one, try swapping the hazard flasher for the turn signal flasher. The hazard flasher is basically a heavy duty version of the turn signal flasher (it looks the same). It is mounted under the dash on the left side of the steering column - sort of across from the T/S flasher. The easiest way to find it is to turn on the hazard lights and follow the clicking noise.
If that solves the problem then you might want to buy an electronic flasher to replace the thermal T/S flasher. An electronic flasher will cost a few dollars more but it isn't affected by changes in current flow so it continues to flash even when a bulb is out.
If that solves the problem then you might want to buy an electronic flasher to replace the thermal T/S flasher. An electronic flasher will cost a few dollars more but it isn't affected by changes in current flow so it continues to flash even when a bulb is out.
