Before I buy....
Before I buy.... I'm kinda a newbie when it comes to car audio, but I've done some research and checked out the differences between X and Y so this is what I've came up with to replace my stock monsoon system...
Infinity 7541a 111RMS X 4 Channel Amp
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-9cWpVuG...sp?I=108R7541A
Rockford Fosgate Punch 2-Way Component Speakers (Front, 60W RMS)
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/produ...en_US&p_status
Alpine 2-Way Coaxial Speakers (Sail Panels, 100W RMS)
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1166840026861
And thats all for now, I'm gonna be running it in a carpc setup and going HU-less...I'd be adding a sub later on, and I was wondering if I could hook it up to the remaining two channels left (2x111rms = 222w RMS powering it). If so, whats the technical term for this?
EDIT: FYI, I work at Best buy and get some mad discounts on car audio, so I do have to stick with "named" brands that BB carries.
Infinity 7541a 111RMS X 4 Channel Amp
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-9cWpVuG...sp?I=108R7541A
Rockford Fosgate Punch 2-Way Component Speakers (Front, 60W RMS)
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/produ...en_US&p_status
Alpine 2-Way Coaxial Speakers (Sail Panels, 100W RMS)
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1166840026861
And thats all for now, I'm gonna be running it in a carpc setup and going HU-less...I'd be adding a sub later on, and I was wondering if I could hook it up to the remaining two channels left (2x111rms = 222w RMS powering it). If so, whats the technical term for this?
EDIT: FYI, I work at Best buy and get some mad discounts on car audio, so I do have to stick with "named" brands that BB carries.
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Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Champaign/Chicagoland
Yea you can "bridge" two of the amp's channels and use that to power the sub if you like.....but what do you mean two remaining channels?? You have the front comps, and the sail speakers you want to power by it as well...correct? Or is the factory amp in here somehow still that I missed...?? Also - until you get your sub....you may wish you had something else in the sails.
I'm not a big fan of Rockford's speakers, but if you have listened to them comparatively and liked them, then that is cool.
Regardless of what brand you pick I would suggest trying to use a coaxial from the same line as your components, so they are tone matched. The Alpines will sound quite a bit different than the RF's.
You also want to be able to send amp power (controllable) to each of the four speaker sets. If you use two channels for all four full range speakers, you won't have fader control, and the backs will be (imho) too loud.
If you know you are going to use a sub then you should try using:
- A 4 channel full-range and a 1 channel sub amp.
- A single 5 or 6 channel amp.
BB doesn't seem to carry a 5 channel amp so you are looking at using a 4 channel and adding a mono sub amp later.
Take a good hard look at how good your emp discount really is - because internet prices on the amps could still end up being better, and a 5 channel is easier to work with (less wiring hassle and cost) if it has enough power for your tastes.
Regardless of what brand you pick I would suggest trying to use a coaxial from the same line as your components, so they are tone matched. The Alpines will sound quite a bit different than the RF's.
You also want to be able to send amp power (controllable) to each of the four speaker sets. If you use two channels for all four full range speakers, you won't have fader control, and the backs will be (imho) too loud.
If you know you are going to use a sub then you should try using:
- A 4 channel full-range and a 1 channel sub amp.
- A single 5 or 6 channel amp.
BB doesn't seem to carry a 5 channel amp so you are looking at using a 4 channel and adding a mono sub amp later.
Take a good hard look at how good your emp discount really is - because internet prices on the amps could still end up being better, and a 5 channel is easier to work with (less wiring hassle and cost) if it has enough power for your tastes.
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Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Champaign/Chicagoland
Originally Posted by todddchi
Take a good hard look at how good your emp discount really is - because internet prices on the amps could still end up being better, and a 5 channel is easier to work with (less wiring hassle and cost) if it has enough power for your tastes.
Yeah I guess I had this crazy idea that the wattage was for both speakers, and I'd be running the fronts in one channel, the sails in another, and would have two channels left to bridge. Like I said, still learning 
And my discount is still considerably cheaper than any online site I've seen (including sonic), so I think I'll still stick with BB.
Todd, I was trying to stick with one brand as well, but couldn't find any component alpines in the store, I have found them on the website though, so I'm sure we could get some in if they aren't in-store. (http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1166840026793) Should I even worry about component speakers though? What's going to give me the best bass out of just speakers...3-ways? Fred, what would you reccomend in the sails?
It looks like I'll be sticking with a 4-channel and adding a mono later. I'll have alot of hours coming up when I'm out of school, so I'll probably add it then.
Thanks for all your patience and answers guys, it helps a ton!
And my discount is still considerably cheaper than any online site I've seen (including sonic), so I think I'll still stick with BB.
Todd, I was trying to stick with one brand as well, but couldn't find any component alpines in the store, I have found them on the website though, so I'm sure we could get some in if they aren't in-store. (http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1166840026793) Should I even worry about component speakers though? What's going to give me the best bass out of just speakers...3-ways? Fred, what would you reccomend in the sails?
It looks like I'll be sticking with a 4-channel and adding a mono later. I'll have alot of hours coming up when I'm out of school, so I'll probably add it then.
Thanks for all your patience and answers guys, it helps a ton!
Last edited by venom889; Apr 18, 2007 at 09:58 AM.
You won't get the kind of bass you get from subs from any 6.5" setup, so if that was your main reason for wanting components - skip it. Components are for sound quality, and for the ability to mount the tweeter seperately in a better position. Generally speaking they use higher quality crossovers as well, again, for sound quality.
If you just want loud clear sound you can do just fine getting four of the same co-axials and sending them good power (75 watts rms is fine for 6.5" speakers). You'll actually get better sound by using the amps high-pass filter to cut out the really low bass (~30-40Hz) range and let the 6.5"s focus on what they can do.
Given BB's selection personally I would favor Infinity speakers and Alpine amps. Both Infinity and Alpine tend to be pretty bright (lots of treble) and I'd give Alpine amps a slight edge in quality.
The best strategy by far though is to use a sub if you want bass. You could put a silly amount of work into the 6.5" setup and it would still be outperformed in terms of bass by a very cheap sub and amp.
Finally, to mix things up even more, it is a perfectly viable option to just get a nice set of 6.5" speakers up front, and a sub. Drive the fronts with the front two channels, and the sub with the back two channels of a standard 4 channel amp. You can obtain excellent sound quality this way and save money across the board. The rear speakers aren't really necessary to get good sound.
If you just want loud clear sound you can do just fine getting four of the same co-axials and sending them good power (75 watts rms is fine for 6.5" speakers). You'll actually get better sound by using the amps high-pass filter to cut out the really low bass (~30-40Hz) range and let the 6.5"s focus on what they can do.
Given BB's selection personally I would favor Infinity speakers and Alpine amps. Both Infinity and Alpine tend to be pretty bright (lots of treble) and I'd give Alpine amps a slight edge in quality.
The best strategy by far though is to use a sub if you want bass. You could put a silly amount of work into the 6.5" setup and it would still be outperformed in terms of bass by a very cheap sub and amp.
Finally, to mix things up even more, it is a perfectly viable option to just get a nice set of 6.5" speakers up front, and a sub. Drive the fronts with the front two channels, and the sub with the back two channels of a standard 4 channel amp. You can obtain excellent sound quality this way and save money across the board. The rear speakers aren't really necessary to get good sound.
Actually I'm really likin that idea, components in the front for all my high frequencies and a 12" sub in the hatch for my bass/lows. Since the tweeters in the component speaker are "movable", I could put them where the front stock .75" tweeters are now (firebird, pointing up), right?
Infinity 7541a
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-9cWpVuG...sp?I=108R7541A
Alpine 110W RMS Components (Front)
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1166840026793
Alpine 12" Single-voice Sub (200W RMS)
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1099388651633
It looks like most the benefits from dualvoice subs involve two subs, so I think I'll stick with the single-voice unless somebody thinks strongly against it. I'm guessing I'll be able to look up how to bridge two channels, and it wont be terribly tricky. And from what I saw, BB didn't carry a 4 channel Alpine amp, but I could have just overlooked it, I'll take another look when I'm in next.
Thanks a ton for all the info Todd, exactly the kind of advice I love to hear
Infinity 7541a
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-9cWpVuG...sp?I=108R7541A
Alpine 110W RMS Components (Front)
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1166840026793
Alpine 12" Single-voice Sub (200W RMS)
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1099388651633
It looks like most the benefits from dualvoice subs involve two subs, so I think I'll stick with the single-voice unless somebody thinks strongly against it. I'm guessing I'll be able to look up how to bridge two channels, and it wont be terribly tricky. And from what I saw, BB didn't carry a 4 channel Alpine amp, but I could have just overlooked it, I'll take another look when I'm in next.
Thanks a ton for all the info Todd, exactly the kind of advice I love to hear
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Where you are at sounds good... best buy did carry a 4 channel alpine but its small like 50x4 rms. You should grab that infinity fast becuase it has been discountinued for a new model with lesser power handling so therefor what you have in your store is prly all you got.
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Did the monsoon package come with components? I don't have it so I don't know. If it didn't, I would go with coax instead. Comp speakers can be really goofy if you don't have a good installer.
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,003
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From: Champaign/Chicagoland
Originally Posted by LT1wannabe
Did the monsoon package come with components? I don't have it so I don't know. If it didn't, I would go with coax instead. Comp speakers can be really goofy if you don't have a good installer.
anyways.....front doors are components in both the Camaro and Firebird versions.
DVC subs are great for the flexibility they offer. All else being equal, I would always buy a DVC 2ohm+2ohm sub vs. a single coil 4ohm sub. The reason is you could use the dvc 2ohmer as a 1 ohm or a 4 ohm sub. This gives you more flexibility if you change amps or sub arrangements down the line. You might not see it coming right now but flexibility is never a bad thing.
Yes you can put your tweeters in the factory locations. Some people like to pillar mount them but I don't think it is necessary in our cars unless you really love treble.
Oh, and I think you'll be very happy with how that setup ends up sounding. Just make sure to get the sub into a well matched enclosure, and consider using at least a speaker kit of dynamat (or whatever) around the door speakers as well as a little felt/extra hot glue on the door grille/panel. Things can get buzzy in that area without a little extra effort. You won't be sending deep bass to the components but you will want them pushing midbass, and with 100 watts it'll be enough to warrant solidifying things up in the door.
Yes you can put your tweeters in the factory locations. Some people like to pillar mount them but I don't think it is necessary in our cars unless you really love treble.
Oh, and I think you'll be very happy with how that setup ends up sounding. Just make sure to get the sub into a well matched enclosure, and consider using at least a speaker kit of dynamat (or whatever) around the door speakers as well as a little felt/extra hot glue on the door grille/panel. Things can get buzzy in that area without a little extra effort. You won't be sending deep bass to the components but you will want them pushing midbass, and with 100 watts it'll be enough to warrant solidifying things up in the door.
Last edited by todddchi; Apr 20, 2007 at 06:23 AM.
