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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Sgt. Spuds
that jumpers probably someones remedy trying to get the fog lights to stay on with the high beams turned on.
I thought so too...except that's the fan relay the jumper wire is going to. I don't know why anyone would want to connect constant (battery) power to one of the fan relays - especially without a fuse.
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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
I thought so too...except that's the fan relay the jumper wire is going to. I don't know why anyone would want to connect constant (battery) power to one of the fan relays - especially without a fuse.

Well I can tell you that my fog lights don't stay on when high beams are on.
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Old Jun 4, 2007 | 09:24 AM
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I looked at that "jump more closely and it wasn't a "jump" at all. It is the power source to a small light used in most GM trucks. (it has a switch to turn it on/off and it is placed on a mount that clips the light into place)
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Old Jun 4, 2007 | 09:33 AM
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Well, back to the DRL Module...

I replace it, checked all the fuses, opened the relays, and I found nothing wrong.

I hooked up the battery terminals and crossed my fingers...I put the key in and tried to turn the car on, but NOTHING happened AGAIN!!! I am getting no power to the gauges when the key is in the ON position. I can hear the fuel pump turn on and the injectors prime and I can also hear the relays in the fuse box click over, but I get nothing else from trying to turn on the car.

What could be causing this?
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Old Jun 4, 2007 | 02:55 PM
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Could my VATS being activated cause this?
How do you know if it's on?
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Old Jun 4, 2007 | 03:58 PM
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when my vats was the problem (GM ordered the wrong damn key) my gauges would work and everything would work fine. but the car wouldnt start and the column wouldnt unlock...

if the column unlocks then its not your vats thats freaking out...
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Old Jun 4, 2007 | 04:04 PM
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Thanks man.


Damn it, what the hell could it be?
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Old Jun 4, 2007 | 08:04 PM
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If the VATS system is preventing the car from starting then the security light on the dash will be lit. The unlocking of the steering column is a mechanical function of the key and ignition cylinder and is unrelated to the VATS system.

There are any number of other reasons why your car might not start. For example, if it is an M6 then it isn't uncommon for the clutch safety switch to cause problems. If it is an A4 then the neutral safety switch could be the problem. The starter relay or the starter solenoid may be dead. Of course, it could be something as simple as the STRTR mini-fuse in junction block #2 under the hood on the left fenderwell. Those are the most likely culprits. It is also possible that the BCM isn't allowing the starter relay to ground but that is unlikely.
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 09:19 AM
  #29  
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WhiteBird00, I talked to a local dealership tech. and he also told me to check the starter power wire, something about a fusible link.

I just haven't had any time to check it out. If it stops raining today, I'll check it after work.
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 09:46 AM
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Actually, there is no fusible link in the starter power wire. There is a fusible link in the ignition/starter relay circuit prior to the junction box but it is extremely unlikely that the fusible link would burn out without one of the smaller amperage fuses going first.
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 09:55 AM
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I offered to help. I would use a tech two to see what is going on. Good luck with the problem. It can be a huge PITA to get some times.
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
Actually, there is no fusible link in the starter power wire. There is a fusible link in the ignition/starter relay circuit prior to the junction box but it is extremely unlikely that the fusible link would burn out without one of the smaller amperage fuses going first.
Werd!
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by JMBLOWNWS6
I offered to help. I would use a tech two to see what is going on. Good luck with the problem. It can be a huge PITA to get some times.
You sure are proud of that tech 2...great tool but not necessary (or even helpful) in this case. Even the factory service manual uses only a standard test light for diagnostics of a "starter solenoid does not click" problem.
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by JMBLOWNWS6
I offered to help. I would use a tech two to see what is going on. Good luck with the problem. It can be a huge PITA to get some times.
Believe me I would really appreciate the help right now , but the car is at my parents house in Carrizo Springs, TX.

That's like a 2.5 hour drive from New Braunfels, TX.

It won't have been that bad if I was in SA.
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Old Jun 6, 2007 | 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
You sure are proud of that tech 2...great tool but not necessary (or even helpful) in this case. Even the factory service manual uses only a standard test light for diagnostics of a "starter solenoid does not click" problem.
Thats great. Since I have access to ESI I dont see the need for a paper book. Yes I am proud. Proud of what I know and I dont care to get in a argument about it. I offered him help and that pretty much sums it up. You trouble shoot your way and I trouble shoot my way. I work with electronics every day in the power industry so I would think I am pretty dam good with wiring and low voltage systems. Since DC systems are the most reliable systems in the world. And I work with them daily.

Last edited by JMBLOWNWS6; Jun 6, 2007 at 07:55 AM.
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Old Jun 6, 2007 | 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by PERFECT Z28
Believe me I would really appreciate the help right now , but the car is at my parents house in Carrizo Springs, TX.

That's like a 2.5 hour drive from New Braunfels, TX.

It won't have been that bad if I was in SA.
Ah man I thought you were in SA. I was going to pm you that Im off Friday and would come by to help you out.
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Old Jun 6, 2007 | 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by JMBLOWNWS6
Thats great. Since I have access to ESI I dont see the need for a paper book. Yes I am proud. Proud of what I know and I dont care to get into a pissing contest with you. I offered him help and that pretty much sums it up. You trouble shoot your way and I trouble shoot my way. I work with electronics every day in the power industry so I would think I am pretty dam good with wiring and low voltage systems. Since DC systems are the most reliable systems in the world. And I work with them daily.
Hey man...don't get your shorts in a knot. You're not the only one that uses electronics or the tech 2. My point was that there is a right time for each tool and in this case the tech 2 is not only unnecessary, it isn't very helpful. The problem is probably electrical rather than electronic. There is still a place in diagnostics for the simple, tried and true tools like a test light.
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Old Jun 6, 2007 | 08:00 AM
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Its all good. Maybe I took it wrong. Either way I cant help him with the car not in SA. But if I listened to ESI on some thing it would take too long to do things
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Old Jun 6, 2007 | 10:30 AM
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I'm probably going to have to tow this sucker to SA. I don't feel comfortable having these local guys working on my car.
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