Help Help Help Help Help Help Help Help Help Help Help Help Help Help
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Eagle Pass, TX
Help Help Help Help Help Help Help Help Help Help Help Help Help Help
Originally Posted by 2001NBMZ28
PCM Reset
Turn key on, don't start car
Pull PCM BATT and PCM IGN fuses in engine compartment
Wait 5-10 min
Turn ignition off
Replace fuses
Turn key on, don't start car
Pull PCM BATT and PCM IGN fuses in engine compartment
Wait 5-10 min
Turn ignition off
Replace fuses
I tried this...
I turned the key to the on position.
I pulled the PCM BATT fuse...but then I noticed some smoke coming from inside the car's dash.
I immediately turn the key back and took it out. I then took off the radio dash trim...I thought that perhaps my radio fried.
(I noticed that the left signal light stayed turned on but it wasn't blinking.)
After I took off the trim piece I saw FLAMES coming from the back!!! I blew out all the flames and ran to get a fire extinguisher. I get back to the car and the flames were out.
I took out the radio and I saw where the flames where coming from...DRL box?
Well, I noticed all the right side of the wire covers had melted together and the left side wire covers were starting to melt.
I seperated the wires so no contact could be made and I tried to start the car...the car started really rough and again the left signal light stayed turned on but it wasn't blinking.
I then disconnected the battery and proceeded to try to "fix" the problem.
I cut off the melted wires and extended the wires to reach out out of the dash. (you can see that there is tape around the wires)
I hooked up the battery, crossed my fingers and prayed that this solved the problem.
I put the key in and tried to turn the car on...NOTHING HAPPENED...
the lights work, the wipers work, the hazard lights work, the RIGHT signal light works, pretty much everything but the LEFT signal light (it just stays stuck on).
I'm scared that maybe I fried my PCM or something...SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME OUT.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 5,399
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From: Jacksonville, FL
Damn! Pulling a fuse with the ignition on wouldn't cause that - something else is going on. That PCM reset procedure has been used for several years - done it on my car a few times before I bought a scanner. The short probably blew a fuse(s) somewhere before frying the PCM, check them all - whatever module that is it's definitely toast and unuseable.
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Boise, ID
That definitely looks like a short to me.
As for your turn signal... there's a little relay under the dash (sorry I forget what they call it) that controls the blinking. When you get one side blinking and the other side isn't, that just needs to be replaced. $2 part...
If you can't figure out what's shorting, you may want to have a pro look at it before you burn your car (and garage and house and anything else) to the ground.
As for your turn signal... there's a little relay under the dash (sorry I forget what they call it) that controls the blinking. When you get one side blinking and the other side isn't, that just needs to be replaced. $2 part...
If you can't figure out what's shorting, you may want to have a pro look at it before you burn your car (and garage and house and anything else) to the ground.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,930
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From: Eagle Pass, TX
Thanks for the replies guys...I'll take some more pics whenI get home to some more details.
I bought the Body Control Module off of a '98 camaro at a junkyard...my car is a '00, should this part still work?
Also, do you really think my PCM is fried?
If it is, I have a spare PCM in the garage.
How could I identify the year of the PCM that I have? (my friend pulled it off a totalled LS1 camaro, he works at a body shop, he gave it to me for free)
I bought the Body Control Module off of a '98 camaro at a junkyard...my car is a '00, should this part still work?
Also, do you really think my PCM is fried?
If it is, I have a spare PCM in the garage.
How could I identify the year of the PCM that I have? (my friend pulled it off a totalled LS1 camaro, he works at a body shop, he gave it to me for free)
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Originally Posted by JustinID
As for your turn signal... there's a little relay under the dash (sorry I forget what they call it) that controls the blinking. When you get one side blinking and the other side isn't, that just needs to be replaced. $2 part...
The most common problem when one side works but the other just goes on without flashing is a burned out bulb on the side that doesn't flash. The flasher needs a certain amount of current flow to make it flash and a burned out bulb reduces the current to the point where it won't work. Turn on your hazard flashers and walk around the car looking for the bulb that doesn't flash. 90% of the time it will be the front because the housings tend to get water in them. Also check for corrosion in the socket - that will cause the same symptoms.
In this case it could also be the melted DRL module. The front turn signals are routed through the DRL module because it controls whether the lights flash or just stay on during the day. If it is damaged so that the current won't flow to the front bulbs then the flasher won't flash (just like a bulb being burned out).
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Originally Posted by PERFECT Z28
Thanks for the replies guys...I'll take some more pics whenI get home to some more details.
I bought the Body Control Module off of a '98 camaro at a junkyard...my car is a '00, should this part still work?
Also, do you really think my PCM is fried?
If it is, I have a spare PCM in the garage.
How could I identify the year of the PCM that I have? (my friend pulled it off a totalled LS1 camaro, he works at a body shop, he gave it to me for free)
I bought the Body Control Module off of a '98 camaro at a junkyard...my car is a '00, should this part still work?
Also, do you really think my PCM is fried?
If it is, I have a spare PCM in the garage.
How could I identify the year of the PCM that I have? (my friend pulled it off a totalled LS1 camaro, he works at a body shop, he gave it to me for free)
My question is how did you get the VATS system to work? The BCM is responsible for checking that the correct key with the proper resistor pellet in it is used to start the car. It can't be reprogrammed once it's matched to a particular key. There were 15 different resistor values so you would have to be pretty lucky to get one that matched your key.
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Eagle Pass, TX
^ I haven't tried the new BCM yet...I was waiting on more responses before tried hookng it up again.
The hazards and right turn signal were working with the original burned BCM that I tried fixing.
So basically you're saying is that I have a 1 in 15 chance of having the correct VATS to work?
Will the car not turn on if it's not the correct one? (VATS)
Would I have to take the car to the dealer to have it reprogrammed or something?
...I hate electrical issues...
The hazards and right turn signal were working with the original burned BCM that I tried fixing.
So basically you're saying is that I have a 1 in 15 chance of having the correct VATS to work?
Will the car not turn on if it's not the correct one? (VATS)
Would I have to take the car to the dealer to have it reprogrammed or something?
...I hate electrical issues...
I would print out all of the wiring diagrams via ESI 
Then I would replace the connector. Ohm out all the wires to make sure they are ok. Replace the connections as needed. Then I would put power to the car and run a check via my tech 2 to make sure I have the proper com. Then I would try to access the BCM via the tech 2 and make sure we are all talking before putting everything back. I had to do something sim to a vette. But the new BCM had to be flashed @ the dealer as my tech 2 cannot does do that. Or you could just get the fuctions working and disable VATS via HP tuners. Also I can test your OG PCM out of the car. I have the harness to change PCM's like mail order tunes work
Then I would replace the connector. Ohm out all the wires to make sure they are ok. Replace the connections as needed. Then I would put power to the car and run a check via my tech 2 to make sure I have the proper com. Then I would try to access the BCM via the tech 2 and make sure we are all talking before putting everything back. I had to do something sim to a vette. But the new BCM had to be flashed @ the dealer as my tech 2 cannot does do that. Or you could just get the fuctions working and disable VATS via HP tuners. Also I can test your OG PCM out of the car. I have the harness to change PCM's like mail order tunes work Last edited by JMBLOWNWS6; May 31, 2007 at 02:50 AM.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Originally Posted by PERFECT Z28
^ I haven't tried the new BCM yet...I was waiting on more responses before tried hookng it up again.
The hazards and right turn signal were working with the original burned BCM that I tried fixing.
So basically you're saying is that I have a 1 in 15 chance of having the correct VATS to work?
Will the car not turn on if it's not the correct one? (VATS)
Would I have to take the car to the dealer to have it reprogrammed or something?
...I hate electrical issues...
The hazards and right turn signal were working with the original burned BCM that I tried fixing.
So basically you're saying is that I have a 1 in 15 chance of having the correct VATS to work?
Will the car not turn on if it's not the correct one? (VATS)
Would I have to take the car to the dealer to have it reprogrammed or something?
...I hate electrical issues...
The BCM is not involved in turn signal operation so that problem is either the melted DRL module or something simple like a burned out bulb or corroded socket.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,930
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From: Eagle Pass, TX
Originally Posted by JMBLOWNWS6
I would print out all of the wiring diagrams via ESI Then I would replace the connector. Ohm out all the wires to make sure they are ok. Replace the connections as needed. Then I would put power to the car and run a check via my tech 2 to make sure I have the proper com. Then I would try to access the BCM via the tech 2 and make sure we are all talking before putting everything back. I had to do something sim to a vette. But the new BCM had to be flashed @ the dealer as my tech 2 cannot does do that. Or you could just get the fuctions working and disable VATS via HP tuners. Also I can test your OG PCM out of the car. I have the harness to change PCM's like mail order tunes work
Then I would replace the connector. Ohm out all the wires to make sure they are ok. Replace the connections as needed. Then I would put power to the car and run a check via my tech 2 to make sure I have the proper com. Then I would try to access the BCM via the tech 2 and make sure we are all talking before putting everything back. I had to do something sim to a vette. But the new BCM had to be flashed @ the dealer as my tech 2 cannot does do that. Or you could just get the fuctions working and disable VATS via HP tuners. Also I can test your OG PCM out of the car. I have the harness to change PCM's like mail order tunes work Sounds like I've got my work cut out for me...I'll have to try this when I get home from work today.
I'll keep in touch.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Originally Posted by PERFECT Z28
Sounds like I've got my work cut out for me...I'll have to try this when I get home from work today.
I'll keep in touch.
I'll keep in touch.
BTW, there is no need to go to the dealer to program a new BCM. The procedure is simple and can be done in your driveway. Just install the new BCM, insert your ignition key, and turn the ignition on and off three times without starting the car. (this only applies to brand new, unprogrammed BCMs - used ones can't be reprogrammed)
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,930
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From: Eagle Pass, TX
Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
I think we have some confusion in the names of modules here. None of that testing JMBLOWNWS6 suggested is necessary (at least not yet) because the burned out module in your pictures is the DRL module not the BCM. In fact, you didn't even mention the BCM at first, you haven't yet installed the one you bought, and they're interchangeable anyway (except for the optional alarm and the VATS resistor configuration). So why test the BCM?
BTW, there is no need to go to the dealer to program a new BCM. The procedure is simple and can be done in your driveway. Just install the new BCM, insert your ignition key, and turn the ignition on and off three times without starting the car. (this only applies to brand new, unprogrammed BCMs - used ones can't be reprogrammed)
BTW, there is no need to go to the dealer to program a new BCM. The procedure is simple and can be done in your driveway. Just install the new BCM, insert your ignition key, and turn the ignition on and off three times without starting the car. (this only applies to brand new, unprogrammed BCMs - used ones can't be reprogrammed)
Where is the BCM located?
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Originally Posted by PERFECT Z28
I was told that my burned unit was called the BCM.
Where is the BCM located?
Where is the BCM located?
The Daytime Running Lamp (DRL) module is a black box about the size of a pack of cigarettes that's mounted to the HVAC duct behind the radio. It has two connectors: 8-pin black and 8-pin blue.
I know that is the DRL module. But in a event to what has happened like this I like to make all the repairs and check my com. Like I said before I use my Tech 2 TO CHECK systems health! Nothing else. And like I said before. The bcm on a corvette will have to be reflashed. Not on a F body. And if VATS becomes a problem I will use HP tuners to get the car going again. But when he posted he wanted his BCM and PCM checked. And like I stated before I can do both with the proper GM tools I have in my possession.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,930
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From: Eagle Pass, TX
I did see this "jump" in the upper fuse box.
From a fan relay to the RH Headlight?
It was like this when I bought the car...could this have been a factor to my short?
I won't have a chance to work on the car until tomorrow.
I really aprreciate everyone's replies.
I'll be keeping ya'll posted with more updates as soon I encounter the next problem with this issue.
From a fan relay to the RH Headlight?
It was like this when I bought the car...could this have been a factor to my short?
I won't have a chance to work on the car until tomorrow.
I really aprreciate everyone's replies.
I'll be keeping ya'll posted with more updates as soon I encounter the next problem with this issue.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Those two empty spots in the fuse box are used for the headlight door motor fuses on Firebirds. They have no factory function in Camaros. I couldn't say offhand whether that jumper wire is related to your problem but I would say that any non-factory wiring would be suspect.
