7Kv.2 Install
It's an amazing improvement, only problem is now the speakers that are working fine really sound weak in comparison. This is a temporary improvement and I'm trying to figure out how to work these speakers into my long term plans. I've used a single amp to a single DVC sub before which is easy, but I don't really want to use two amps for two small subs. Could I use a JL 250/1 and "Y" the connections? Will that sound good and give proper power? Or wire to one coil and loop from one coil to the other? Do I need a 4 channel amp so I have enough connections?
Here's how it looks...
Made a 2" hole for venting:

Used eDead paint on:

Built the spacer:

Put sealant on the spacer:

Installed the spacer:

Covered the spacer in eDead:

Installed the sub!
As far as the 250/1 -- that will give you 50-70 wRMS more per sub (approximately) -- might wish to go for more power, they can handle it, but it may not be necessary depending on other subs, etc. (and if it still sounds relatively rattle free with a lot more power).
But yea you can easily run them both off of a mono amp with parallel/series wiring. Definitely don't need or want a 4 ch amp for them -- 2 channel or mono amp.
Hard to explain wiring through text though -- so look here are eDs sample diagrams (should summarize all your questions -- post if there is any confusion):
http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/ele...gns_wiring.php
125wX2 @ 2 ohms RMS.
85wX2 @ 4 ohms RMS
you will not be disapointed with a kicker amp, one of the top of the lines out right now. i want to do the exact setup as you but with this amp.
Last edited by funkymonkeys409; Jun 11, 2007 at 01:54 AM.
They sound really great, it's unbelievable that they are 6.5's. It's more like 6.5 + 6.5 = 13. There's no vibration noise anywhere near the subs, but it does rattle the front passenger cup holder.
The only problem I have run into is that I used the bolts that held the original speakers in place, because they were black, and screwed the speaker into just the MDF and it seems that the subs are beating their way out. I'm going to have to get some metal screws and go all the way through.Nothing against Kicker, but I have had nothing but great results from JL products and unless something is significantly cheaper, I probably won't stray. I think I'm even going to waste the extra $50 to get the limited black edition amps.... God I hate being **** about that stuff but I love the black on black car.
If I got a 300/4 and some front speakers, would it be worth it to hook the subs to the amp?
I went shopping around at local electronics stores...
I ended up buying two Pioneer amps, a 6300F and a 7300M, for less than one JL amp... I'm telling myself it's temporary, but we'll see.
One shop I went to had some left overs from an insurance claim because a door was damaged. Some guy had his entire system replaced because one speaker looked bad...So I was told. I got a JL-VR650CSi and a JL-VR650CXi for $120. As soon as I got home I tested them and they all work perfectly. What a deal, would cost about $400+tax and/or shipping new. While I was there, I asked how much for a Alpine CDA-9885, he said $250, I said I'll take it.
When I install it all...
Alpine CDA-9885 Head Unit (Installed)
Pioneer GM-6300F 4-Channel Amp
Pioneer GM-7300M Mono Amp
JL Audio VR650CSi Component Speakers
JL Audio VR650CXi Coaxial Speakers (Installed)
Elemental Design 7KV.2 Subwoofers (Installed)
...It should sound good enought to tide me over for a while. Less than $900 spent to replace the entire system with good/great equipment.
I put the coaxials in front with the stock harnesses. How much stuff am I going to have to take off to put wires into the doors from an amp?
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