I just purchased my car back in Jan, and I was looking to install a few 5x7's in the rear hatch. Well when I pulled the rear side panel off I found that the amp wires had been cut and some spliced together. I was wondering if someone could explain this to me.

Here are the wires that were spliced from the AMP connection:

Brown - Green
Light Green - Light Blue
Dark Blue - Blue w/white stripe
Tan - Yellow and Light Blue
Grey - Black and Dark Blue
Yellow - Light Blue w/Black Stripe
Light - Orange and Light Green

The wires were not cut at diff lengths so I can tell which ones are positive or negative.

Can anyone help? BTW there are after market speakers in the car too (front, and rear seats)

 

Have you tried checking out the Monsoon FAQ?

https://ls1tech.com/forums/wiring-stereo-electronics/612644-monsoon-faq.html

Not sure if it'll help, but its a start.

 

I don't know for sure, but what I suspect is that someone simply bridged the inputs/outputs together to bypass the amp.

The monsoon head unit sends 4 normal high level signals to the amp. The amp does its stuff and sends it out.

So, some people think they are better off using the amp in an aftermarket head unit, and just splice around the monsoon amp. I'm guessing this is probably what was done.

 

I mapped out the amp wiring from the faq's a few days ago and still couldn't figure out what they were doing.

I have managed to trace a set of wires back such as:

Dark Green (F6)
Right Front Mid Neg. Out
|--------Spliced to-------------|
Purple (F3)-----------Dark Green (F5)
Right Front Tweeter Right Sub
Negative Out Positive Out

The Dark Greens could be switched, I really cant tell from they way they are cut. But there are only 2 dark greens and 1 purple.

They are all right speakers and Outputs but with 2 positives and 1 negative, Im not quite sure what this accomplishes.

 

It could mean it is a common ground for both speakers. Its not all that unheard of when it comes to factory amplified vehicles.

 

Ok, i took out my door panels and traced back all the wiring and here is what I came up with:

Left Front
----------
E3 - TAN (AMP Splice to E14 and E16)- left front speaker positive input
E14 - YELLOW - left front speaker tweeter negative output
E16 - LIGHT BLUE - left front speaker midrange negative output

E2 - GRAY (AMP Splice to E13 and E15)- left front speaker negative input
E13 - BLACK - left front speaker tweeter positive output
E15 - DARK BLUE - left front speaker midrange positive output

Right Front
-----------
E1 - DARK GREEN (AMP Splice to F6 and F3)- right front speaker negative inpu
F6 - DARK GREEN - right front speaker midrange negative output
F3 - PURPLE - right front speaker tweeter negative output

F1 - LIGHT GREEN (AMP Splice to F2 and F7)- right front speaker positive inpu
F2 - LIGHT GREEN - right front speaker tweeter positive output
F7 - ORANGE - right front speaker midrange positive output

Left Rear
-----------
F10 - LIGHT GREEN w/BLACK - left rear subwoofer speaker negative output
E5 - LIGHT BLUE (AMP Splice to F10)- right rear speaker negative input
F11 - DARK BLUE w/WHITE - left rear subwoofer speaker positive output
E4 - Dark Blue (AMP Splice to F11)- right rear speaker positive input

Right Rear
-----------
F5 - DARK GREEN - right rear subwoofer speaker positive output
E7 - BROWN (AMP Splice to F5)- left rear speaker positive input
F4 - LIGHT BLUE w/BLACK - right rear subwoofer speaker negative output
E6 - YELLOW (AMP Splice to F4)- left rear speaker negative input


Still attached to the AMP connector:
-------------------------------------
E8 - BLACK - ground
E9 - BLACK - ground
E10 - not used
E11 - ORANGE - fused input feed
E12 - ORANGE - fused input feed

F8 - not used
F9 - not used

F12 - not used
F13 - RED - right rear extended range speaker negative output
F14 - TAN - right rear extended range speaker positive output
F15 - TAN - left rear extended range speaker positive output
F16 - WHITE - left rear extended range speaker negative output

My main goal here is that I want to put the Rear Hatch speakers back into the system as sub's or as normal speakers and put my rear speakers as subs, and possibly use the amp again. I have a Sony Xplod BT2500 as a small head unit right now.

Right Rear Hatch Speaker
-------------------------
F13 - RED - right rear extended range speaker negative output
F14 - TAN - right rear extended range speaker positive output

Left Rear Hatch Speaker
-------------------------
F15 - TAN - left rear extended range speaker positive output
F16 - WHITE - left rear extended range speaker negative output

 

I was looking at this again, and it looks as if the left rear and right rear wires are backwards:

Left Rear
-----------
F10 - LIGHT GREEN w/BLACK - *LEFT* rear subwoofer speaker negative output
E5 - LIGHT BLUE (AMP Splice to F10)- *RIGHT* rear speaker negative input


Right Rear
-----------
F5 - dark green - *RIGHT* rear subwoofer speaker positive output
E7 - brown (AMP Splice to F5)- *LEFT* rear speaker positive input

I know the wire tracings are right, spent 3 hours on them, so why would they Splice a left speaker to a right one?

 

Well i think i got it figured out. I just spliced the rear hatch speakers into the middle rear speakers like so:

Left Rear
--------------
F10 - LIGHT GREEN w/BLACK - left rear subwoofer speaker negative output
E5 - LIGHT BLUE (AMP Splice to F10)- right rear speaker negative input
F16 - WHITE (AMP Splice to F10 and E5)- left rear extended range speaker negative output

F11 - DARK BLUE w/WHITE - left rear subwoofer speaker positive output
E4 - Dark Blue (AMP Splice to F11)- right rear speaker positive input
F15 - TAN (AMP Splice to F11 and E4)- left rear extended range speaker positive output

Right Rear
---------------
F5 - DARK GREEN - right rear subwoofer speaker positive output
E7 - BROWN (AMP Splice to F5)- left rear speaker positive input
F14 - TAN (AMP Splice to F5 and E7)- right rear extended range speaker positive output

F4 - LIGHT BLUE w/BLACK - right rear subwoofer speaker negative output
E6 - YELLOW (AMP Splice to F4)- left rear speaker negative input
F13 - RED (AMP splice to F4 and E6)- right rear extended range speaker negative output

It seems to be working fine now. The speakers sound good, and I am not getting any rattleing.

 

Jesus, that is complicated. What are you trying to accomplish?

You know the best sound in our cars cab be accomplished with a solid set of front speakers and a modest sub arrangement, right?

Putting speakers in the hatch area, (that aren't subs in proper boxes) is mostly agreed to be a waste of time. Before you spend a bunch of money and end up with poor results, maybe start a new thread for some recommendations towards what you are trying to accomplish.