Something Went Completly Wrong
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 563
Likes: 0
From: Orange County, CA
Something Went Completly Wrong Ok just did the disabling the automatic headlights and everything worked great andthe lights are now manual... but now the lights for the gauges dont work!! The brake light and asr off and crap still light up...
The interior lights still work but as of right now... the gauge cluster is off, the radio is off... The only lights that do work is the screen in the guage cluster and the screen on the radio...
Me and my buddy are stumped....
Any help woud be great.
Thanks,
Taylor
The interior lights still work but as of right now... the gauge cluster is off, the radio is off... The only lights that do work is the screen in the guage cluster and the screen on the radio...
Me and my buddy are stumped....
Any help woud be great.
Thanks,
Taylor
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,329
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Two simple possibilities...did you check that you haven't accidentally turned the dimmer all the way down? And did you test the IP DIMMER fuse?
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,329
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
How did you do the automatic headlight disable? There are a few different ways to do it and knowing which one will help in looking for possible problems.
BTW, the correct way to do it is to connect the two sensor wires together - but that shouldn't have affected any other circuits.
BTW, the correct way to do it is to connect the two sensor wires together - but that shouldn't have affected any other circuits.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,329
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Even if they were shorting to ground it wouldn't cause that particular fuse to blow because the sensor wires come from the DRL module behind the radio. Did you do any other wiring or changes at the same time? Did you reach the sensor wires by lifting up the top dash panel or by going in through the radio opening?
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 563
Likes: 0
From: Orange County, CA
well i checked everything and nothing seems to be wrong... it blows 5 and 10. It its just weird anyone help please... i cant drive it tonight if it doesnt get fixed lol.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,329
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Well, the DRL module gets power from the TAIL LPS fuse and the TURN/BU fuse so any problem with the module wouldn't be related to the IP DIMMER circuit.
The dash lights are an extremely simple circuit. Power from the TAIL LPS fuse flows through the IP DIMMER fuse, then to a splice pack in the instrument panel harness where it splits to the dash bulbs and on to ground. There really isn't a whole lot that can go wrong unless one of the wires to the bulbs is damaged and shorting against something metal. Try removing the fuse and then test one of the bulb sockets - see if you have ground on both contacts of the socket. You should have ground on only one contact (the other should normally be power) so ground on both indicates a short to ground on the power side. Then it's just a case of doing the tedious tracking down of the damaged wire.
The dash lights are an extremely simple circuit. Power from the TAIL LPS fuse flows through the IP DIMMER fuse, then to a splice pack in the instrument panel harness where it splits to the dash bulbs and on to ground. There really isn't a whole lot that can go wrong unless one of the wires to the bulbs is damaged and shorting against something metal. Try removing the fuse and then test one of the bulb sockets - see if you have ground on both contacts of the socket. You should have ground on only one contact (the other should normally be power) so ground on both indicates a short to ground on the power side. Then it's just a case of doing the tedious tracking down of the damaged wire.
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 563
Likes: 0
From: Orange County, CA
Well everything checked out... but still doesnt work.... It seems that i am in way over my head... I dont know what else to do next to taking it somewere.
Does that sensor have anything to do with voltage...
Does that sensor have anything to do with voltage...
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,329
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
No, the sensor is a very low current closed circuit that merely increases resistance as it gets darker outside. That's why connecting the two sensor leads together disables automatic headlights - zero resistance equals bright daylight.
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 563
Likes: 0
From: Orange County, CA
Well we retraced everything and come to find out the electrical tape and a tiny little wire was exposed and thanks for the help everyone and wow that sucked lol.
