How about this for a vert
How about this for a vert Okay so ive been researching the crap on a stereo for my vert.. I even saw the thread about the convertible stereo guide.. Im still hitting one big problem.. I dont like any of my options for bass.. Yeah i know "then go buy a coupe" right? No. There are other ways to make this happen. So one solution ive come up with is some Q-Logic 5 1/4 kick panels for a component set, and throwing some of these bad boys in the doors:
http://www.cdtaudio.com/m6_midbase_driver.htm
Now my thing is the 4th gen doors are fiberglass. So naturally im going to have to order a bunch of Second Skin products for my doors. Thats okay. AS LONG AS I GET THE SOUND I WANT. I dont need the boom that some cars have today, i just want a nice loud full spectrum that sounds good. I want my lows to be plenty audible. These woofers have a 10mm xmax, and they can hit freqs as low as 10hz.. Thats great.
Now my 4 questions are:
-Will these thing blow my doors in half? lol but seriously though they are fiberglass they wont have problems with being rattled apart will they?
-Will i have a clearance with my window on these things? I dont know the max mounting depth for speakers on our doors.
-Will the high excursion on these woofers be an issue with the door panel and the screen covering them? Because i REALLY dont like the look of those missing.
-Will this get me the sound i want?
Thanks guys!
http://www.cdtaudio.com/m6_midbase_driver.htm
Now my thing is the 4th gen doors are fiberglass. So naturally im going to have to order a bunch of Second Skin products for my doors. Thats okay. AS LONG AS I GET THE SOUND I WANT. I dont need the boom that some cars have today, i just want a nice loud full spectrum that sounds good. I want my lows to be plenty audible. These woofers have a 10mm xmax, and they can hit freqs as low as 10hz.. Thats great.
Now my 4 questions are:
-Will these thing blow my doors in half? lol but seriously though they are fiberglass they wont have problems with being rattled apart will they?
-Will i have a clearance with my window on these things? I dont know the max mounting depth for speakers on our doors.
-Will the high excursion on these woofers be an issue with the door panel and the screen covering them? Because i REALLY dont like the look of those missing.
-Will this get me the sound i want?
Thanks guys!
ALLLLRIGHT now (ima lose my F***in mind before this is done lmao.) Anyways i found these!
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...c+camaro&tp=16
They have a 4 inch mount depth.
SOOOOOOOO now its looking like its a matter of Damplifier Pro, Some rattle pad, and some of the other fine products second skin has to offer! lol. Anyone have any input on this? I could keep the CL-61CVs i have in the door, put the M6's in the kicks and be done with it.. HOPEFULLY. I just need some input here. I realize the airspace would be minimal for these things..
http://www.cdtaudio.com/m6_midbase_driver.htm
Hopefully Kee can chime in since he is a CDT dealer. Damn verts....
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...c+camaro&tp=16
They have a 4 inch mount depth.
SOOOOOOOO now its looking like its a matter of Damplifier Pro, Some rattle pad, and some of the other fine products second skin has to offer! lol. Anyone have any input on this? I could keep the CL-61CVs i have in the door, put the M6's in the kicks and be done with it.. HOPEFULLY. I just need some input here. I realize the airspace would be minimal for these things..
http://www.cdtaudio.com/m6_midbase_driver.htm
Hopefully Kee can chime in since he is a CDT dealer. Damn verts....
Last edited by future_Z_Owner; Oct 23, 2007 at 02:37 PM.
The CDT M-6 won't fit in the factory plastic rings in the doors. The holes for the screws line up with the factory speakers but the basket has more depth and the plastic mount has a little rigde inside it that hits the basket about a 1/2" from the top. I make a mounting ring and piece to go with the M-6's for the doors. However, the EF-6 would more closely match your power rating on your amp and fit like factory with no mods. They also sound really good!! I just installed a pair in an 02 WS6 yesterday and they have great midbass and clarity at high volume. Here's the specs on these: http://www.cdtaudio.com/pdf/EF-6.pdf
Some pics:
I have the carbon fiber version of these in my car doors right now!! They are running with 100watts to them and do very well. 70watts rms should be perfect.
Some pics:
I have the carbon fiber version of these in my car doors right now!! They are running with 100watts to them and do very well. 70watts rms should be perfect.
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You didn't see them on the spec sheet because they aren't there. Since when did audio companies start listing xmass and Vd specs for midbass speakers? I know that information is listed for subwoofers, but I haven't seen any companies listing xmass for a midbass speakers either by themselves or in a component set. The M-6's are a cross between a midbass speaker and a subwoofer so it lists that info on there. As far as other midbass drivers...I've never seen a company list xmass or Vd on them. The eD 7kv.2 is strictly a subwoofer NOT a midbass so it would list the xmass on it as well.
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The EF-6 is 2.75" deep and fits in the stock door basket with no issues at all. The M-6 @ 2.94" is deeper by a little less than a 1/4" and doesn't fit in the stock basket but not so much because of depth but because of the basket itself, the push terminals that stick out of it interfear with the stock plastic mount.
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,591
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From: Massachusetts
When companies don't list Xmax, it's usually because it's pitiful. Take a look at the speakers on non-sponsor link removed sometime. The OP wanted a speaker with 10mm of excursion....
Last edited by WhiteBird00; Oct 24, 2007 at 06:56 AM.
Yep, your right Dragonrage...CDT, RE Audio, Rainbow, eD, are pitiful speakers. The OP said M-6's have 10mm of excusion which they do...not that was his criterion for a speaker was 10mm. He was asking about the M-6 specifically.
I have looked at Partsexpress...oh and thank you for posting a non-sponsored web-site...what am I looking for?? If your refering to the Professional drivers section with all of the 8ohm non-car audio speakers..yep they list xmax..I was refering to actual car audio equipment not PA speakers.
All I do is try to help people with their needs and wants and all you do is try to counter everything I mention...what gives because this crap is getting old.
I have looked at Partsexpress...oh and thank you for posting a non-sponsored web-site...what am I looking for?? If your refering to the Professional drivers section with all of the 8ohm non-car audio speakers..yep they list xmax..I was refering to actual car audio equipment not PA speakers.
All I do is try to help people with their needs and wants and all you do is try to counter everything I mention...what gives because this crap is getting old.
Last edited by KEE AUDIO; Oct 24, 2007 at 10:56 AM.
Take it for what it's worth, but here's what I can tell you as a vert owner who has learned along the way.
- Solid 6.5"s in the doors, with good power, and a lot of patience working with sound deadener, will give you reasonable bass. Good enough for rock music but it's not going to do much for r&b or rap. But you'll be spending money and effort for something that is ultimately pretty limited. Not a lot of room in the door, not a very good enclosure.
- If you have the patience, resources, talent, and tolerance for lost space to fab up some kick panel wedges and put a beefy 6.5" (maybe even 8") down in the front footwells and drive the heck out of them, imho this would result in probably the best sound you are going to get. Lots of fab work and some pretty big sacrifices to space, but putting woofers down in that area is one of the best ways to get bass with the top down. People with more talent than me and tolerance to hack their car up could make this work.
- If you want true sub-type bass WITHOUT IMPACTING THE CAR FUNCTION then a wedge box on the shelf area is the way to go. Lots of variants in the vert area but you can get away with 2 or 4 8" subs, box them right, and pound them. This will do better than the door options and not impact passenger space. It'll have the benefits of sounding full fledged with the top up, and still give a nice hit with the top down if you battle ax it.
- The only other thing I've considered, is to make some trade-offs in the rear seat department. Rear seats cost next to nothing, and I think a talented fabricator could put a shallow mount enclosure in a hollowed out rear seatback and port it down into the cabin. Again, beyond my ability but something I think could work.
- Solid 6.5"s in the doors, with good power, and a lot of patience working with sound deadener, will give you reasonable bass. Good enough for rock music but it's not going to do much for r&b or rap. But you'll be spending money and effort for something that is ultimately pretty limited. Not a lot of room in the door, not a very good enclosure.
- If you have the patience, resources, talent, and tolerance for lost space to fab up some kick panel wedges and put a beefy 6.5" (maybe even 8") down in the front footwells and drive the heck out of them, imho this would result in probably the best sound you are going to get. Lots of fab work and some pretty big sacrifices to space, but putting woofers down in that area is one of the best ways to get bass with the top down. People with more talent than me and tolerance to hack their car up could make this work.
- If you want true sub-type bass WITHOUT IMPACTING THE CAR FUNCTION then a wedge box on the shelf area is the way to go. Lots of variants in the vert area but you can get away with 2 or 4 8" subs, box them right, and pound them. This will do better than the door options and not impact passenger space. It'll have the benefits of sounding full fledged with the top up, and still give a nice hit with the top down if you battle ax it.
- The only other thing I've considered, is to make some trade-offs in the rear seat department. Rear seats cost next to nothing, and I think a talented fabricator could put a shallow mount enclosure in a hollowed out rear seatback and port it down into the cabin. Again, beyond my ability but something I think could work.
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Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Massachusetts
He's trying to get as much as he can without requiring other speakers.
KEE: CDT lists Xmax for some of their speakers, as does Rainbow. I believe RE is even better about it. And yes, eD is pitiful and they lie about their T/S specs even when they list them. As for PE, if the mods had looked, it's a home audio site with a few (crappy) car speakers, but you'll notice just about all of the drivers have Xmax figures listed.
Point is you can't just recommend some random speaker to people and expect it to work.
KEE: CDT lists Xmax for some of their speakers, as does Rainbow. I believe RE is even better about it. And yes, eD is pitiful and they lie about their T/S specs even when they list them. As for PE, if the mods had looked, it's a home audio site with a few (crappy) car speakers, but you'll notice just about all of the drivers have Xmax figures listed.
Point is you can't just recommend some random speaker to people and expect it to work.
Last edited by dragonrage; Oct 24, 2007 at 07:34 AM.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,329
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
I am well aware of Parts Express and use them often for electrical and electronics projects...don't always assume we don't know as much as you. When a sponsor complains about a posted link we do our best to accomodate them, so it seemed appropriate to remove the link.
I make the mount for the M-6 to be mounted in the doors if you need them and want to go that route Future Z. Mounting depth wouldn't be an issue unless you went with the ES-6 or ES-6+. These are basically a subwoofers and would put out plenty of bass...especially the M-6.