help me figure out my setup
help me figure out my setup ok wow. ive got a lotta different ideas running through my head right now. its not brand or power, its location. im looking for what works best in these cars.
02 WS6 monsoon system.
first idea was to put 6.5" components in the doors, 5.25" components in hatch, and then elemental designs 7" subs in sail panels. so basically replace all stock speakers with idential aftermarket and power it aftermarket as well.
after reading some reviews i dont think the ED subs will hit to my liking, so i think i'll go with a 10" stealthbox in back, but my problem is now what to do with the 6 speakers working with 4 channels on the amp.
im still thinking 6.5" components up front, but do i abandon the sail panel and put some components/coaxials in the hatch?
or the other way around, abandon the hatch and put components/coaxials in the sail panel?
this would all still be powered aftermarket and it would be easy to distribute the channels and manage my impedence.
or could i go with 6.5" components on each front channel, then on each rear channel put one 6.5" coaxials in the sail and one 5.25" or 4" coaxial in the hatch?
this would kinda screw with my impedence and power on the rear channels cuz each rear channel would have two speakers. but i dont know whats common and what works best.
any input is appreciated. again im not really going with size/power/brand, its more of location and which is both easist to setup and ideal for SQ. thanks guys.
EDIT: pics are worth 1000 words so i put them little diagrams to help describe what im thinking.
02 WS6 monsoon system.
first idea was to put 6.5" components in the doors, 5.25" components in hatch, and then elemental designs 7" subs in sail panels. so basically replace all stock speakers with idential aftermarket and power it aftermarket as well.
after reading some reviews i dont think the ED subs will hit to my liking, so i think i'll go with a 10" stealthbox in back, but my problem is now what to do with the 6 speakers working with 4 channels on the amp.
im still thinking 6.5" components up front, but do i abandon the sail panel and put some components/coaxials in the hatch?
or the other way around, abandon the hatch and put components/coaxials in the sail panel?
this would all still be powered aftermarket and it would be easy to distribute the channels and manage my impedence.
or could i go with 6.5" components on each front channel, then on each rear channel put one 6.5" coaxials in the sail and one 5.25" or 4" coaxial in the hatch?
this would kinda screw with my impedence and power on the rear channels cuz each rear channel would have two speakers. but i dont know whats common and what works best.
any input is appreciated. again im not really going with size/power/brand, its more of location and which is both easist to setup and ideal for SQ. thanks guys.
EDIT: pics are worth 1000 words so i put them little diagrams to help describe what im thinking.
Last edited by noriceinside; Dec 4, 2007 at 02:23 AM. Reason: pics worth 1000 words
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,329
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
A lot depends on what you want to accomplish... what types of music do you listen to? are you looking for SPL or SQ? do you prefer lots of bass? what is your budget?
In general, if you want full range speakers (coaxials or whatever) behind you then you should do the doors, the sail panels, and a rear sub - forget about the hatch area, it just moves the sound stage too far back. However, many people like the "concert hall" sound of just front speakers and a sub to keep the sound stage in front of you.
Another option is to leave the factory amp and just upgrade the head unit and speakers. A nice set of components in the doors, a pair of eD subs in the sail panels, and either leave the factory hatch speakers or get some inexpensive 4" components to upgrade them. This is a relatively low cost upgrade that gives nicely balanced sound. You can still add a sub and amp in the back if you want more bass.
There are plenty of options so your personal taste should be the deciding factor.
In general, if you want full range speakers (coaxials or whatever) behind you then you should do the doors, the sail panels, and a rear sub - forget about the hatch area, it just moves the sound stage too far back. However, many people like the "concert hall" sound of just front speakers and a sub to keep the sound stage in front of you.
Another option is to leave the factory amp and just upgrade the head unit and speakers. A nice set of components in the doors, a pair of eD subs in the sail panels, and either leave the factory hatch speakers or get some inexpensive 4" components to upgrade them. This is a relatively low cost upgrade that gives nicely balanced sound. You can still add a sub and amp in the back if you want more bass.
There are plenty of options so your personal taste should be the deciding factor.
I have several options for you that are not hit and miss. These are systems that I have built for other F-bodies that sound great and work very well whether you use aftermarket amplification or want to keep the stock Monsoon amp. Also here is a link to my current specials I have running:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/sponsor-sales-specials/808727-kee-audio-holiday-speaker-specials.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/sponsor-sales-specials/808698-kee-audio-holiday-specials.html
As for aftermarket amplification I have a couple of very nice 5-channels amps that would answer most of your amp problems. The Cadence FXA-5100 is: 100watts RMS x 4 channels and 300watts RMS x 1 for your subwoofer all in one amplifier. Those ratings are RMS @ 4ohms and the amp is 2ohm stable bringing you power for the subchannel to conservative 400watts RMS. I am running this amp opn special right now as well....normally $329.00...get it now for $284.00. $284.00 for an amp to run your whole system. PM me for details on an entire system with this amp, speakers, amp kit, and all the accessories you need to install this in one package.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/sponsor-sales-specials/808727-kee-audio-holiday-speaker-specials.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/sponsor-sales-specials/808698-kee-audio-holiday-specials.html
As for aftermarket amplification I have a couple of very nice 5-channels amps that would answer most of your amp problems. The Cadence FXA-5100 is: 100watts RMS x 4 channels and 300watts RMS x 1 for your subwoofer all in one amplifier. Those ratings are RMS @ 4ohms and the amp is 2ohm stable bringing you power for the subchannel to conservative 400watts RMS. I am running this amp opn special right now as well....normally $329.00...get it now for $284.00. $284.00 for an amp to run your whole system. PM me for details on an entire system with this amp, speakers, amp kit, and all the accessories you need to install this in one package.
yeah im going more for SQ. i listen to rock and metal. sometimes i put hip-hop on when i have nice bass. but i like the idea of just using that and replacing the sub with eD subs and then the components with aftermarket ones.
does anyone know the specs of the monsoon amp? i think ive heard the deck powers the highs and the monsoon amp powers the midbass and the subs. if this is the case i can simply replace all the speakers and wouldnt even need crossovers (assuming the new ones are the same impedence of the stock ones).
does anyone know the specs of the monsoon amp? i think ive heard the deck powers the highs and the monsoon amp powers the midbass and the subs. if this is the case i can simply replace all the speakers and wouldnt even need crossovers (assuming the new ones are the same impedence of the stock ones).
Last edited by noriceinside; Dec 5, 2007 at 10:49 PM.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,329
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
The four tweeters are powered by the head unit in Firebird Monsoon systems, everything else is powered by the amp (all speakers run off the amp in Camaros). The various channels are filtered by the amp as appropriate but there are inline high-pass filters for the tweeters. You wouldn't be able to use crossovers anyway because each speaker element is powered by a separate channel. Impedance is not a problem - the eD subs are 4-ohm dual voice coil just like the factory ones, the tweeters are 4-ohm, and the 2-ohm door mids are much less efficient than good aftermarket pieces so you won't even notice a drop in volume using 4-ohm components there.
Ian (Kee Audio) has some CDT components for the doors that sound great with the factory amp - I have them in my car.
Ian (Kee Audio) has some CDT components for the doors that sound great with the factory amp - I have them in my car.
Last edited by WhiteBird00; Dec 6, 2007 at 11:04 AM.
wow this is really going to be an easy upgrade. i really took a good listen today and realized since i added an aftermarket deck the system really isnt too bad, so upgrading the speakers should be just enough and i'll be able to put money into more fun upgrades 
thanks for your help guys.
thanks for your help guys.
