A few questions?
A few questions? Hello,
Well I was traveling down the highway and thinking about the speakers I purchased. Well the speakers I purchased are rated ay 3 ohms and I know the tweeters are at 4 ohms and the mids are at 2 ohms on a stock system.
So I figured I put some E.E knowledge together I figured if I were to put a 1 ohm resistor in series on the positive side of the tweeter to get an equivalent resistance of 4 ohms and then If I were to put a 6 ohm resistor in parallel with the mid range speaker that would give me an equivalent resistance of 2 ohms.
Would this work? Would I have a nice even sound that the stock speakers would have instead of a loud tweeter and a quiet midrange?
Tilly
Well I was traveling down the highway and thinking about the speakers I purchased. Well the speakers I purchased are rated ay 3 ohms and I know the tweeters are at 4 ohms and the mids are at 2 ohms on a stock system.
So I figured I put some E.E knowledge together I figured if I were to put a 1 ohm resistor in series on the positive side of the tweeter to get an equivalent resistance of 4 ohms and then If I were to put a 6 ohm resistor in parallel with the mid range speaker that would give me an equivalent resistance of 2 ohms.
Would this work? Would I have a nice even sound that the stock speakers would have instead of a loud tweeter and a quiet midrange?
Tilly
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Why bother? The factory speakers are relatively inefficient so your aftermarket 3-ohm speaker will probably be louder despite the increased impedance. As for the tweeters, just adjust the tone controls if it's too bright but I doubt you'll have a problem.
The stockers are wired in parallel right? The formula for finding the equivalent impedance of two impedances in parallel is:
Rt = R1 * R2 / R1 + R2
so stock is:
(4 * 2) / (4 + 2) = 8/6 = 4/3 or 1.33 Ohms
So your actually ending up with more impedance over stock. Truth is most of the car audio stuff is plug and play anyway. The only time you have to be careful is when you wire your 4 ohm subs in parallel, for an equivalent impedance of 2 ohms, and then try to drive it with an amp rated at 4 ohms. Otherwise it's almost dummy proof.
Rt = R1 * R2 / R1 + R2
so stock is:
(4 * 2) / (4 + 2) = 8/6 = 4/3 or 1.33 Ohms
So your actually ending up with more impedance over stock. Truth is most of the car audio stuff is plug and play anyway. The only time you have to be careful is when you wire your 4 ohm subs in parallel, for an equivalent impedance of 2 ohms, and then try to drive it with an amp rated at 4 ohms. Otherwise it's almost dummy proof.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
No, the factory speakers aren't wired in parallel. In a Camaro, the door mids and the sail panel subs are 2-ohm. The door tweeters and the hatch full-range are 4-ohm. Firebirds are similar except the sail panel subs are 4-ohm dual voice coil (not wired in parallel - each voice coil runs off a separate channel of the amp) and the hatch has separate 4-ohm mids and tweeters.
But you are correct that you can always use higher impedance speakers, just not lower impedance.
But you are correct that you can always use higher impedance speakers, just not lower impedance.
