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Sail panel coaxial rewire?

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Old Jan 8, 2008 | 04:39 AM
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Default Sail panel coaxial rewire?

How can I get full range to the sail panels?
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Old Jan 8, 2008 | 07:18 AM
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Assuming you have a Monsoon system, you'll have to give up the hatch speakers. Pull the wires from the hatch speakers (the hatch mids in a Firebird) forward to the sail panels and use those for your new speakers.

The other question is "why would you want to?" Unless you're adding a sub, you'll find the sound will be shallow with that arrangement. There are plenty of other options.
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Old Jan 8, 2008 | 08:51 AM
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What he's getting at is that the channels for the sail panel are filtered at the amp for a sub. They don't provide a full-range signal. That is why he said that you'd need to use the hatch speaker wires.
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Old Jan 8, 2008 | 01:34 PM
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Sorry, I have a '00 Z28. I do intend on getting some subs. I've also toyed with the idea of putting a bigger speaker in the hatch as the opening seems capable to hold a 5x7" or so.
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Old Jan 8, 2008 | 02:33 PM
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Don't bother with hatch speakers, but DO bother with a sub back there. Rewiring sail panel speakers to coax is optional with a sub - the alternative is not using the sail panel speakers.

Just remember, more speakers are NOT always better.
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Old Jan 8, 2008 | 09:21 PM
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Is there no logical hope of just getting another amp and pushing the doors and sails, and possibly the hatch speakers that way? I don't really want the factory amp sitting there if I could replace it and be happier, so long as it doesn't cost me too much more.
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Old Jan 8, 2008 | 09:35 PM
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Why does everyone think that more speakers = better? Seriously.

I know you think you know what you're doing. I mean, you own an F-body and that makes you cool and all.

But trust us. Really.
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 01:28 AM
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Wow, that was a bit more disrespect than I was prepared for. All I asked was if I could replace the factory amp because it won't be pushing enough watts RMS for the coaxials I am putting in the doors and sails, not to mention the hatch speakers I haven't removed yet, but never mind, I'll bother someone else with it.
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 07:56 AM
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Well, I'm not going to try and convince you to stay or anything, but I will say this: Lighten up.
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by ZeroTwo
Wow, that was a bit more disrespect than I was prepared for. All I asked was if I could replace the factory amp because it won't be pushing enough watts RMS for the coaxials I am putting in the doors and sails, not to mention the hatch speakers I haven't removed yet, but never mind, I'll bother someone else with it.
We'd like to try and help, but you didn't say any of that earlier. Can you outline what you want to do and what you're hung up on? Maybe we can help. The more detail you give, the better our response will be.
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by ZeroTwo
Wow, that was a bit more disrespect than I was prepared for. All I asked was if I could replace the factory amp because it won't be pushing enough watts RMS for the coaxials I am putting in the doors and sails, not to mention the hatch speakers I haven't removed yet, but never mind, I'll bother someone else with it.
Keeping what VIP said as far as knowing your ultimate goals for your sound system replacing the factory amp may not be neccessary. Usually a good start for a Monsoon upgrade is to go with an aftermarket HU and quality replacement speakers followed by an aftermarket amp and sub to round things out (like Dragonrage mentioned). This is sufficient for most people with F-body cars looking for good sound.
The next step after this would be to go with an aftermarket amplifier for your speakers. This does deliver the best sound quality depending on equipment used and other potential prep work like sound deadening which really makes a difference in sound quality and helps your speakers perform better.
The best thing you can do is figure out a what you want out of your sound system then figure out what you can spend to try and achieve this.
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