2004SSS

iTrader: (25)

im adding a single 10w6v2 to the all stock monsoon.

im using a jl v2500 1 amp.

i want to keep the factory sail panel subs for a mid/sub and keep all the other speakers as well. just wondering exactly where to pull the signal for the converter and what is the best converter? money doesent matter on the adaptor just looking for best sound and bass i can get with just adding this to the monsoon.

tia.

SS#2906

iTrader: (53)

I would recommend to pull the signal from the sail panels. Cut them off completely, since they are only subs, not mids. Secondly, I would also suggest to buy another pair of 6 1/2's to replace the two sail panels and wire them from the highs in the rear.

This way you can have the highs running on 6 speakers, which the monsoon amp should have no problem picking up, and the sub in the back with the JL amp.

As far as the converter, doesn't really matter what brand, they all do the same thing.
Just make sure your JL amp doesn't have the inputs for the speaker wires before you buy the converter.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

You should add the converter to the input side of the Monsoon amp - especially since you're using the stock head unit. The object is to convert speaker-level signal to pre-amp signal for your amp so you don't want to amplify the signal twice (once in head unit and once in Monsoon amp) before stepping it down with the converter. If you take the signal from the wires at the speakers then you've amplified the distortion from the stock head unit making for a noisier signal to your sub amp.

The pinouts for the Monsoon amp are in the Monsoon FAQ sticky at the top of the forum.

SS#2906

iTrader: (53)

You could take this approach, but then you'd be eliminating the rear highs also. Unless you're suggesting splicing into the input signals, I don't think this is a good idea. Not to mention that it's alot of work for simply the bass signal.

2004SSS

iTrader: (25)

well i want to keep all the factory speakers and add the sub

but retain the best sound quality

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

No, you wouldn't be eliminating anything. You would just tap into the speaker level input wires at the amplifier in the rear quarter. This is the same full range signal that is coming out of the head unit - it's just more convenient to get it at the back of the car.

Why wouldn't you want to splice into the input signal? That's what a LOC is designed to do. You'd rather eliminate existing speakers by cutting off the wires instead of splicing in the adapter to add a sub and keep all the existing speakers? That's cutting off your nose to spite your face.

pentavolvo

deff splice on the input side, it will give you the best signal

THE PUNSSHR

This is exactly what I did.. Works great!!

2002BlackSS

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for explaining that here. I don't think it's in the sticky, which was causing me some confusion since I don't have experience with amps.

As a mild (yet related) hijack, if I were to replace the monsoon amp, would it be possible to replace it with a single amp for all the speakers and a sub, instead of having a dedicated amp for the sub? Would this allow me to simplify the wiring of the front speakers?

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Sort of...but not really. You could buy a 5-channel amp (although they aren't that popular) and use it to power four speakers (doors and sail panels) and a sub. However, you'd have to replace the factory speakers and run your own wiring to each speaker so it really wouldn't simplify anything. There can be very good reasons for doing that sort of setup (higher power, different speaker configuration, etc.) but in your case it would be simpler to leave the factory amp.

You can get CDT coaxial components for the doors that fit and wire up just like stock - ask Kee Audio about them if you want to replace the door speakers.

SS#2906

iTrader: (53)

At least we're on the same page on this comment!!!

Yes, I'd rather cutoff the subs in the sail panels since we all know they sound like **** anyway. So you're suggesting splicing into the high's, therefore cutting the power to half, to gain subs??

The whole point here is to add a subwoofer, therefore defeating the purpose of running subs on any of the 6 speakers.

Obviously you've never heard of a pre-amp, which does the exact same thing that you're contradicting above. It separates the highs, mids, and subs, eliminating any distortion delivered to the amps.

I'm not trying to put your theories down here, but I guess to each his own.
2004SSS can try both methods and revert back with what he likes better.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

No, I'm suggesting using the speaker output from the head unit (which is the input to the Monsoon amp) which is unfiltered, unamplified (other than the head unit amp), full-range signal. It is not just highs.

The sail panel speakers are called subs but they are really more midbass. The OP said that he wanted to retain ALL of the factory speakers and I don't see anything wrong with leaving the midbass while adding a sub.

No, in all my years and even while getting my degree in electronics, I never heard of pre-amp.

Pre-amp has nothing to do with this situation since there is no pre-amp output from the factory head unit. If you keep the factory head unit and want to connect an amp that doesn't have speaker-level input then you have no choice but to use a LOC. The LOC steps down the speaker-level signal to line-level to use as input to an amp. It has no filtering capability and will pass along any distortion that is in the signal.

BTW, pre-amps don't separate signal. The function of a pre-amp is to increase low level signal voltage to line level without significantly increasing current. A power amp then boosts the current for the speakers. Some pre-amps have added signal filters, tone controls, or equalizers but that is not their primary function.

Cobra2WS6

iTrader: (22)

I have a converter for an amp if your interested.. i was going to run subs but have changed my mind.. Pm me if interested

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

I would think that in the year since the original thread was posted he has probably already bought his LOC.

transaman98

iTrader: (16)

I would install the line output converter behind the headunit for a couple reasons. 1) You already have to run power wire from the battery to the amplifier so you will already have the appropriate panels off to run the signal 2) If your factory head unit ever takes a **** on you and you do feel like going aftermarket your rca cables are already there so there is no re running **** involved. 3) The factory outputs a full range signal to feed into the amplifier. Just tap into your speaker wires there. 4) Its the EASIEST WAY!!!!

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

1) Taking off the side panel to access the input side of the Monsoon amp requires using only a coin to disengage the twist locks and the panel would have to be removed anyway.

2) This would only apply if you decide to install an aftermarket head unit and an additional amp to power the other speakers. Otherwise the aftermarket HU can be installed using a wiring harness adapter and the sub amp can still run off the Monsoon amp input.

3) The exact same signal is available at the input side of the Monsoon amp but it's much closer to where you would likely install your sub amp.

4) It's one way - but I wouldn't call it the easiest way. Connecting at the factory amp doesn't require pulling the HU at all, uses far shorter signal wires, and accomplishes the same results.

transaman98

iTrader: (16)

I know. But if the factory piece of **** breaks why would you install another factory piece of ****? I would say it would be the best to catch it behind the deck due to the fact that your 12v accessory going to the headunit can be used for your remote turn on to the aftermarket amplifier. Why not have everything ran from 1 easy to access location? If I am not mistaken the monsoon amp doesn't even have a remote wire going to it because it is signal sensing as opposed to a 12v switched input.(I could be mistaken but when you are installing an aftermarket deck it doesn't require an amp turn on wire to be hooked up to anything to get sound.) So if I am indeed correct why wouldnt you just install your line out behind the deck anyway? Because the next easiest place to catch 12v switched in the car would be the deck since it takes a flatblade screwdriver and a 7mm nut. And an answer to point #4. What do you think the odds are that he purchased an amp kit with everything in it? I would say pretty good. Amp kits usually come with 16+ feet of RCA cable. Why wouldn't you just run the cable from behind the head unit and have a clean install as opposed to some zip tied bundle of **** hanging in the back? If you are installing your amp back there you already have to manage enough wires to maintain a clean installation. Why make it more difficult?

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

I think you missed my point. No, I would not expect that someone would replace a dead factory HU with another factory unit (although some have done so to preserve the factory appearance of the dash). But, by the same token, I would not expect someone who is happy with the factory speaker configuration plus an added sub to want to replace the speakers and redo the wiring just because they replace the head unit. An aftermarket HU can be installed without the need for any rewiring, additional amp, or RCA cables. If the sub amp is getting signal from the factory amp input then a future upgrade of the HU still wouldn't involve changing any of that. Just mount and connect the HU in the dash and leave all the wiring exactly as it is.

Agreed, if there is a likely HU/amp/speaker upgrade in the future then wiring to the dash eliminates duplicate effort. But for the simple addition of a sub in the back without the likelyhood of future major upgrades doesn't require wiring to the dash.

transaman98

iTrader: (16)

I think you missed what I was saying. I know you don't have to rewire the speakers, or anything special to add a new deck. I was simply saying to install the line out converter behind the deck for 3 reasons. 1) You can catch your 12v accessory wire in the factory radio harness for your amp turn on lead. 2) You can catch your signal from the factory radio harness aswell. 3) You can also run your signal cables when you are running your power wire from the battery to eliminate any extra work. That was pretty much my reasoning for the suggestion to install the line out and remote wire behind the factory head unit.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

3) ...Although you shouldn't run your signal wires next to your power. So you still have extra work running the power down one side and the RCAs down the other.