another adding sub to factory monsoon thread. but specifics
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From: southern california
another adding sub to factory monsoon thread. but specifics im adding a single 10w6v2 to the all stock monsoon.
im using a jl v2500 1 amp.
i want to keep the factory sail panel subs for a mid/sub and keep all the other speakers as well. just wondering exactly where to pull the signal for the converter and what is the best converter? money doesent matter on the adaptor just looking for best sound and bass i can get with just adding this to the monsoon.
tia.
im using a jl v2500 1 amp.
i want to keep the factory sail panel subs for a mid/sub and keep all the other speakers as well. just wondering exactly where to pull the signal for the converter and what is the best converter? money doesent matter on the adaptor just looking for best sound and bass i can get with just adding this to the monsoon.
tia.
I would recommend to pull the signal from the sail panels. Cut them off completely, since they are only subs, not mids. Secondly, I would also suggest to buy another pair of 6 1/2's to replace the two sail panels and wire them from the highs in the rear.
This way you can have the highs running on 6 speakers, which the monsoon amp should have no problem picking up, and the sub in the back with the JL amp.
As far as the converter, doesn't really matter what brand, they all do the same thing.
Just make sure your JL amp doesn't have the inputs for the speaker wires before you buy the converter.
This way you can have the highs running on 6 speakers, which the monsoon amp should have no problem picking up, and the sub in the back with the JL amp.
As far as the converter, doesn't really matter what brand, they all do the same thing.
Just make sure your JL amp doesn't have the inputs for the speaker wires before you buy the converter.
Last edited by WhiteBird00; Jan 19, 2009 at 11:07 AM. Reason: merge consecutive posts
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
You should add the converter to the input side of the Monsoon amp - especially since you're using the stock head unit. The object is to convert speaker-level signal to pre-amp signal for your amp so you don't want to amplify the signal twice (once in head unit and once in Monsoon amp) before stepping it down with the converter. If you take the signal from the wires at the speakers then you've amplified the distortion from the stock head unit making for a noisier signal to your sub amp.
The pinouts for the Monsoon amp are in the Monsoon FAQ sticky at the top of the forum.
The pinouts for the Monsoon amp are in the Monsoon FAQ sticky at the top of the forum.
You should add the converter to the input side of the Monsoon amp - especially since you're using the stock head unit. The object is to convert speaker-level signal to pre-amp signal for your amp so you don't want to amplify the signal twice (once in head unit and once in Monsoon amp) before stepping it down with the converter. If you take the signal from the wires at the speakers then you've amplified the distortion from the stock head unit making for a noisier signal to your sub amp.
The pinouts for the Monsoon amp are in the Monsoon FAQ sticky at the top of the forum.
The pinouts for the Monsoon amp are in the Monsoon FAQ sticky at the top of the forum.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,330
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Why wouldn't you want to splice into the input signal? That's what a LOC is designed to do. You'd rather eliminate existing speakers by cutting off the wires instead of splicing in the adapter to add a sub and keep all the existing speakers? That's cutting off your nose to spite your face.
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I would recommend to pull the signal from the sail panels. Cut them off completely, since they are only subs, not mids. Secondly, I would also suggest to buy another pair of 6 1/2's to replace the two sail panels and wire them from the highs in the rear.
This way you can have the highs running on 6 speakers, which the monsoon amp should have no problem picking up, and the sub in the back with the JL amp.
This way you can have the highs running on 6 speakers, which the monsoon amp should have no problem picking up, and the sub in the back with the JL amp.
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You should add the converter to the input side of the Monsoon amp - especially since you're using the stock head unit. The object is to convert speaker-level signal to pre-amp signal for your amp so you don't want to amplify the signal twice (once in head unit and once in Monsoon amp) before stepping it down with the converter. If you take the signal from the wires at the speakers then you've amplified the distortion from the stock head unit making for a noisier signal to your sub amp.
The pinouts for the Monsoon amp are in the Monsoon FAQ sticky at the top of the forum.
The pinouts for the Monsoon amp are in the Monsoon FAQ sticky at the top of the forum.
As a mild (yet related) hijack, if I were to replace the monsoon amp, would it be possible to replace it with a single amp for all the speakers and a sub, instead of having a dedicated amp for the sub? Would this allow me to simplify the wiring of the front speakers?
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
As a mild (yet related) hijack, if I were to replace the monsoon amp, would it be possible to replace it with a single amp for all the speakers and a sub, instead of having a dedicated amp for the sub? Would this allow me to simplify the wiring of the front speakers?
You can get CDT coaxial components for the doors that fit and wire up just like stock - ask Kee Audio about them if you want to replace the door speakers.
Sort of...but not really. You could buy a 5-channel amp (although they aren't that popular) and use it to power four speakers (doors and sail panels) and a sub. However, you'd have to replace the factory speakers and run your own wiring to each speaker so it really wouldn't simplify anything. There can be very good reasons for doing that sort of setup (higher power, different speaker configuration, etc.) but in your case it would be simpler to leave the factory amp.
You can get CDT coaxial components for the doors that fit and wire up just like stock - ask Kee Audio about them if you want to replace the door speakers.
You can get CDT coaxial components for the doors that fit and wire up just like stock - ask Kee Audio about them if you want to replace the door speakers.
No, you wouldn't be eliminating anything. You would just tap into the speaker level input wires at the amplifier in the rear quarter. This is the same full range signal that is coming out of the head unit - it's just more convenient to get it at the back of the car.
Why wouldn't you want to splice into the input signal? That's what a LOC is designed to do. You'd rather eliminate existing speakers by cutting off the wires instead of splicing in the adapter to add a sub and keep all the existing speakers? That's cutting off your nose to spite your face.
Why wouldn't you want to splice into the input signal? That's what a LOC is designed to do. You'd rather eliminate existing speakers by cutting off the wires instead of splicing in the adapter to add a sub and keep all the existing speakers? That's cutting off your nose to spite your face.
The whole point here is to add a subwoofer, therefore defeating the purpose of running subs on any of the 6 speakers.
You should add the converter to the input side of the Monsoon amp - especially since you're using the stock head unit. The object is to convert speaker-level signal to pre-amp signal for your amp so you don't want to amplify the signal twice (once in head unit and once in Monsoon amp) before stepping it down with the converter. If you take the signal from the wires at the speakers then you've amplified the distortion from the stock head unit making for a noisier signal to your sub amp.
The pinouts for the Monsoon amp are in the Monsoon FAQ sticky at the top of the forum.
The pinouts for the Monsoon amp are in the Monsoon FAQ sticky at the top of the forum.
I'm not trying to put your theories down here, but I guess to each his own.
2004SSS can try both methods and revert back with what he likes better.
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Pre-amp has nothing to do with this situation since there is no pre-amp output from the factory head unit. If you keep the factory head unit and want to connect an amp that doesn't have speaker-level input then you have no choice but to use a LOC. The LOC steps down the speaker-level signal to line-level to use as input to an amp. It has no filtering capability and will pass along any distortion that is in the signal.
BTW, pre-amps don't separate signal. The function of a pre-amp is to increase low level signal voltage to line level without significantly increasing current. A power amp then boosts the current for the speakers. Some pre-amps have added signal filters, tone controls, or equalizers but that is not their primary function.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,330
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
I would install the line output converter behind the headunit for a couple reasons. 1) You already have to run power wire from the battery to the amplifier so you will already have the appropriate panels off to run the signal 2) If your factory head unit ever takes a **** on you and you do feel like going aftermarket your rca cables are already there so there is no re running **** involved. 3) The factory outputs a full range signal to feed into the amplifier. Just tap into your speaker wires there. 4) Its the EASIEST WAY!!!!
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,330
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
I would install the line output converter behind the headunit for a couple reasons. 1) You already have to run power wire from the battery to the amplifier so you will already have the appropriate panels off to run the signal 2) If your factory head unit ever takes a **** on you and you do feel like going aftermarket your rca cables are already there so there is no re running **** involved. 3) The factory outputs a full range signal to feed into the amplifier. Just tap into your speaker wires there. 4) Its the EASIEST WAY!!!!
2) This would only apply if you decide to install an aftermarket head unit and an additional amp to power the other speakers. Otherwise the aftermarket HU can be installed using a wiring harness adapter and the sub amp can still run off the Monsoon amp input.
3) The exact same signal is available at the input side of the Monsoon amp but it's much closer to where you would likely install your sub amp.
4) It's one way - but I wouldn't call it the easiest way. Connecting at the factory amp doesn't require pulling the HU at all, uses far shorter signal wires, and accomplishes the same results.
1) Taking off the side panel to access the input side of the Monsoon amp requires using only a coin to disengage the twist locks and the panel would have to be removed anyway.
2) This would only apply if you decide to install an aftermarket head unit and an additional amp to power the other speakers. Otherwise the aftermarket HU can be installed using a wiring harness adapter and the sub amp can still run off the Monsoon amp input.
3) The exact same signal is available at the input side of the Monsoon amp but it's much closer to where you would likely install your sub amp.
4) It's one way - but I wouldn't call it the easiest way. Connecting at the factory amp doesn't require pulling the HU at all, uses far shorter signal wires, and accomplishes the same results.
2) This would only apply if you decide to install an aftermarket head unit and an additional amp to power the other speakers. Otherwise the aftermarket HU can be installed using a wiring harness adapter and the sub amp can still run off the Monsoon amp input.
3) The exact same signal is available at the input side of the Monsoon amp but it's much closer to where you would likely install your sub amp.
4) It's one way - but I wouldn't call it the easiest way. Connecting at the factory amp doesn't require pulling the HU at all, uses far shorter signal wires, and accomplishes the same results.
hanging in the back? If you are installing your amp back there you already have to manage enough wires to maintain a clean installation. Why make it more difficult? Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Agreed, if there is a likely HU/amp/speaker upgrade in the future then wiring to the dash eliminates duplicate effort. But for the simple addition of a sub in the back without the likelyhood of future major upgrades doesn't require wiring to the dash.
I think you missed what I was saying. I know you don't have to rewire the speakers, or anything special to add a new deck. I was simply saying to install the line out converter behind the deck for 3 reasons. 1) You can catch your 12v accessory wire in the factory radio harness for your amp turn on lead. 2) You can catch your signal from the factory radio harness aswell. 3) You can also run your signal cables when you are running your power wire from the battery to eliminate any extra work. That was pretty much my reasoning for the suggestion to install the line out and remote wire behind the factory head unit.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,330
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
3) ...Although you shouldn't run your signal wires next to your power. So you still have extra work running the power down one side and the RCAs down the other.
