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how does this setup sound?

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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 05:11 PM
  #21  
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i would but i want it to be hidden like the factory one
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 05:14 PM
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fred... how do i turn it off?lol
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 05:22 PM
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Okay.
Send me the ohms of each speaker, and what their RMS watts are, and i will write something up for you that i did and it will work great!
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 05:25 PM
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Press & hold the source button to turn the unit off.
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 05:54 PM
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What car is this stereo going into because i need to know so i know what colored wires you have for your amp, i am doing a write up. Camaro, Firebird, coupe, conv?
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 06:35 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Gordon0652
What car is this stereo going into because i need to know so i know what colored wires you have for your amp, i am doing a write up. Camaro, Firebird, coupe, conv?
I think it's safe to assume it's for his '97 SS...... not sure why tou need wire colors though...
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 08:39 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by fredmr39
I think it's safe to assume it's for his '97 SS...... not sure why tou need wire colors though...
Because if he replaces the factory amp he will be needing to figure out which color wire goes to what speaker.
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 08:40 PM
  #28  
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External amp:
Alpine Alpine MRP-F450.

Your Front speakers are 4 ohms
Sail speakers are 2 ohms
Hatch speakers are 2 ohms

Connect the RIGHT sail and hatch speakers togather so you have a 4 ohm load then connect it to the amp.

Connect the LEFT sail and hatch speakers togather so you have a 4 ohm load then connect it to the amp.

Look at the sticky because it will tell you what wires go to where.
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 08:51 PM
  #29  
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Just a very bad idea IMHO... You'll lack power for the sails, and they wont be LPF from the amp...and if you do, the hatch wont get the higher freqs......

Plus, using high level inputs is never a good idea... RCAs off of an aftermarket deck is a much better option. If no aftermarket deck, then Monsoon amp will suffice. It may be a little low on the power side, but nothing wrong with it other than that.

So much more could be added to what I said, but to keep it simple - replacing the factory Monsoon amp with an aftermarket amp the way you suggested is not a good idea.
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by fredmr39
Plus, using high level inputs is never a good idea... RCAs off of an aftermarket deck is a much better option. If no aftermarket deck, then Monsoon amp will suffice. It may be a little low on the power side, but nothing wrong with it other than that.
Thats what i ment sorry that i didnt ad that it there also. I was just saying use the factroy speaker wire to run the sound to the speakers.

No deff. not use anything else besies the RCAs if you are going to an aftermarket amp, because if you use something else for the aftermarket amp (not RCAs) you would be looking at trouble.
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Old Jan 29, 2008 | 01:49 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Gordon0652
Thats what i ment sorry that i didnt ad that it there also. I was just saying use the factroy speaker wire to run the sound to the speakers.

No deff. not use anything else besies the RCAs if you are going to an aftermarket amp, because if you use something else for the aftermarket amp (not RCAs) you would be looking at trouble.
Well...the amps would likely be in the rear of the car, and the speaker wire coming from there -- so I didn't think you were trying to use existing wire. Sorry for misinterpreting.
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Old Jan 29, 2008 | 01:30 PM
  #32  
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the speakers are all 4 ohms and i cant remember rms, i think 150 or 180. are you saying i can use the aftermarket H/U with the stock amp and new 4 ohm speakers?
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Old Jan 29, 2008 | 02:09 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Gordon0652
Connect the RIGHT sail and hatch speakers togather so you have a 4 ohm load then connect it to the amp.

Connect the LEFT sail and hatch speakers togather so you have a 4 ohm load then connect it to the amp.

Look at the sticky because it will tell you what wires go to where.
Please stop giving advice here.
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Old Jan 29, 2008 | 04:36 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by dragonrage
Please stop giving advice here.

Talk to Crutchfield, thats what they told me. There tech. advice told me to do exactly that for mine except my sail and hatch speakers were 4ohms each so i brough them down to a 2 ohm load.
All i did was what Crutchfield told me to do, and i would think they would know what to do.
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Old Jan 30, 2008 | 10:45 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Gordon0652
All i did was what Crutchfield told me to do, and i would think they would know what to do.
They know what to do to get you to buy hatch speakers too, sure. They don't make money by telling people that having fewer speakers is often better.
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Old Jan 30, 2008 | 05:20 PM
  #36  
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Ok, the H/U is 50Wx4 channel

this is what I dont get, the front of the box says 4ohm, but the back of the box says Nominal impedance is 2 ohms (and crutchfield clearly says 2 ohms..)... why is that?

but other than that
the 6012i in the doors:
power range: 2-60 watts RMS (180 watts peak power)
frequency response: 53-21,000 Hz
sensitivity: 92 dB

the 6022i in the sail panels:
2-ohm impedance
power range: 2-60 watts RMS (180 watts peak power)
frequency response: 53-21,000 Hz
sensitivity: 93.4 dB

5022i in the trunk:
2-ohm impedance
power range: 2-45 watts RMS (135 watts peak power)
frequency response: 67-21,000 Hz
sensitivity: 92.6 dB
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Old Jan 31, 2008 | 05:01 AM
  #37  
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Just to clarify, your head unit is 18w x 4. 50w is when lightning strikes.
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