Best system for Heavy Metal???
#1
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I have been out of the stereo scene for some time now, just wondering what kind of subs have a good clean sound.. I thinking of focal for the doors, and maby kicker comp 10' that would replace the cd changer, any suggestions for me???
oh btw i lission to metal if that helps (lamb of god, the old slipknot, as i lay dying, pantera ect..)
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#2
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hey man, i have an alpine 9885 HU, Boston acoustic Pro 60 fronts, stock rear seat (for now) a Boston Acoustic G210 sub and an Eclipse XA5000 to power it all. AND I LOVE IT. listen to the same kind of music; Nora, RATM, Killswitch, most precious Blood etc.
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I'd look at the IDQ 10" or 12", Fi Q12, RE's stuff, etc. - stuff in that league of quality. I don't think you would need more than 300 Wrms (not that the sub wouldn't be able to handle more).
I would be sure to have a strong mid-range as well. Invest in some nice components or some midbass for the sails if you can afford it (KEE AUDIO has CDT M6 -- good choice if you can afford them).
I would be sure to have a strong mid-range as well. Invest in some nice components or some midbass for the sails if you can afford it (KEE AUDIO has CDT M6 -- good choice if you can afford them).
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what the hell??? why is metal so associated with bad *** SS, Z28, TA. i have a kick *** TA and i listen to maroon 5! metal sucks..............................
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j/k.....KSE, Lamb of God, FFDP (Five Finger Death Punch), Nodes of Ranvier, pretty much all hardcore and american metal gets my vote!
sorry matt, my post has nothing to do with your system,......you'll get over it though
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sorry matt, my post has nothing to do with your system,......you'll get over it though
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#6
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I got two 10" Alpine Type R's and using the Alpine PDX 1.1000 amp, I'm tellin you this sucker CRANKS!!!
I also found out that using a 10" or double 10" subs are actually better for double bass drum banging cuz apparently the response of a 10" is faster than the bigger subs, or in other words, a GOOD 10" will be faster than an equal quality larger sub, so it hits pretty instantaneous compared to the bigger subs out there, that was pretty interesting to learn too.
I also found out that using a 10" or double 10" subs are actually better for double bass drum banging cuz apparently the response of a 10" is faster than the bigger subs, or in other words, a GOOD 10" will be faster than an equal quality larger sub, so it hits pretty instantaneous compared to the bigger subs out there, that was pretty interesting to learn too.
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Not really..Some drivers have lower Q’s because manufactures tend to use larger cones on smaller motors to increase SPL and sensitivity but not BL product. Unless the motor can compensate for the extra mass it has to push, then the Qts will not be the same as the smaller drivers and ultimately the driver may not be suited for the same kinds of alignments and could ring too much and compromise the perceived sound quality.
High Qts drivers are not any less “tight” or “musical” than properly dampened drivers, it’s just they require larger boxes and less internal pressure to prevent ringing. When enclosure volume decreases, Qtc (system Qtc) increases and it will take a driver with a low Qts to make for an average Q system.
The only reason to use a smaller bass driver is for space/weight/budget.
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#9
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Not really..Some drivers have lower Q’s because manufactures tend to use larger cones on smaller motors to increase SPL and sensitivity but not BL product. Unless the motor can compensate for the extra mass it has to push, then the Qts will not be the same as the smaller drivers and ultimately the driver may not be suited for the same kinds of alignments and could ring too much and compromise the perceived sound quality.
High Qts drivers are not any less “tight” or “musical” than properly dampened drivers, it’s just they require larger boxes and less internal pressure to prevent ringing. When enclosure volume decreases, Qtc (system Qtc) increases and it will take a driver with a low Qts to make for an average Q system.
High Qts drivers are not any less “tight” or “musical” than properly dampened drivers, it’s just they require larger boxes and less internal pressure to prevent ringing. When enclosure volume decreases, Qtc (system Qtc) increases and it will take a driver with a low Qts to make for an average Q system.
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Can you say this in layman's terms please? Pardon my ignorance but I have no idea what you just said
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Subwoofers all move at the same frequency. The difference is really about the Q alignment of the system. Q of the driver at Fs (free air resonance frequency of the driver) is a function of electromotive damping factor or mechanical dampening factor. In short - dampening dramatically effects what you hear (and don't hear) And any driver can be faster or slower depending simply on the voltage.
I'll try to find an old post on another forum where I explained it more completely, or maybe someone else here will add to this.
EDIT: Besides the physics behind it -- the important thing to know is that smaller subs are not any faster or tighter sounding than larger subs -- there is much more that goes into it besides size.
I'll try to find an old post on another forum where I explained it more completely, or maybe someone else here will add to this.
EDIT: Besides the physics behind it -- the important thing to know is that smaller subs are not any faster or tighter sounding than larger subs -- there is much more that goes into it besides size.
Last edited by fredmr39; 02-17-2008 at 04:42 AM.
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I listen to alot of older metal...Pantera, Metallica, Rob Zombie, Filter, Manson, and alot of 80's stuff too. Any quality sound system should work with a variety of music including metal. I can also get down with Lil John, T.I., and many others in that style with no problem either. I have a versatile system as does anyone with a good system. Metal benefits from a good subwoofer to add that depth.