WS.6 major audio install
WS.6 major audio install Well, I finally got the install started. I wasn`t able to make a whole lot of progress, but I did manage to get the drivers side speaker wire ran to the door and the sail panel. I also installed Dynamat Extreme inside the door and over all the holes that I could on the outside. Still debating if I want to cover the outside of the door completely or not. I do have some Frost King closed cell duct rap that I might put over the outside of the door. I`m trying to keep weight and cost down by not using a whole lot of product. I will give some more detailed pics of the speaker wire install and writeup in a day or so.
Last edited by jebcamaro; Mar 8, 2008 at 10:54 PM. Reason: didn`t link them right
I also wanted to comment on a couple other things as well. My battery is a little low running at 11.43 volts. I hooked up a battery charger after taking that pic. I like that new Stinger positive battery terminal with gauge on it a lot. It looks like I`m going to have to make a baffle for the door speaker out of some MDF because the factory speaker mount only uses 3 screws. I noticed after temporarily installing the speaker that the top left part of the mount would move. I`m sure that could hurt the performance of the speaker. I tried to sink a self-tapping screw through the factory mount into the door, but there was nothing behind the mount to catch the screw, hence the reason for having to make some custom baffles.
I will be using 1/2" MDF for the baffles, maybe even 3/4". As for covering the entire outside of the door, when I need to replace the window motor, I guess I will just have to cut away the deadener to access the motor. Still don`t know if I`m gonna cover the entire area though. However, the door has a lot of flex to it. I will say the deadener that is on there now makes the door feel VERY solid and heavier when closing it. I will probably run it as is now and see if I need to make some improvements later. I only bought 1 bulk pack of DMX, so I need to use it sparingly. Took almost 2 sheets to do what I have already done. Kit came with 9 sheets. Still have the other door to do and the sail panel area. Thanks for the headsup though. Sure can use all the advice I can get.
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The battery is low. I know this because the car sits all winter. I never have much time to get it out anymore. I was being a bit sarcastic when I said it was a little low.
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Pentavolvo is right. It will fire right up. I cranked it the other day to move it around in the garage when I was pulling wires out from my last stereo install.
On my install, I have decided to buy another DMX bulk kit. I just don`t have enough for what I want to do. I want to make sure my doors are deadened enough and that will require doing the outside of the door pretty much completely. I also want to make sure I get enough in the sail areas as well on the rear wheel wells. Whatever is left over, if any, will go in the trunk area. I`m not crazy about adding all this extra weight, but oh well. I am also going to mount my amp on the hump behind the seat, if I can with the style of my box in a custom enclosure. That will take some time to do, so it will probably temporarily mounted on the hump without the enclosure.
On my install, I have decided to buy another DMX bulk kit. I just don`t have enough for what I want to do. I want to make sure my doors are deadened enough and that will require doing the outside of the door pretty much completely. I also want to make sure I get enough in the sail areas as well on the rear wheel wells. Whatever is left over, if any, will go in the trunk area. I`m not crazy about adding all this extra weight, but oh well. I am also going to mount my amp on the hump behind the seat, if I can with the style of my box in a custom enclosure. That will take some time to do, so it will probably temporarily mounted on the hump without the enclosure.
My sub finally arrived today. This FI sub is amazing. I can only imagine what it`s going to sound like. Makes my Memphis 10 look tiny. The FI sub is a 12.
Last edited by jebcamaro; Mar 11, 2008 at 02:04 AM.
I just wanted to give a little update. I have most everything installed and have had my system playing. I still have to go back and tidy things up a bit and get the sub installed, however what I have installed now is simply amazing. I added DMX sound deadener to the doors and sail areas. I made some baffles out of interior grade 1/2" plywood for the doors and sail panel speakers. Anyone that says they don`t like CDT products, simply hasn`t heard them. Anyone that wants some really hard hitting, deep and clear bass without installing a subwoofer in the rear needs to really look hard at the CDT M6+`s. I am simply blown away with this system. I am actually contemplating not installing my new FI Q12 in the rear. My system has that much hard hitting bass already. I still have some install issues to work out. I`ll get some pics posted up soon of the rest of the install along with more listening impressions.
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I`m going to install it. I know the M6+`s can`t produce the type of bass that Q12 can. I was really just commenting on how great the bass is coming from the M6+`s.
hey do they (m6+) really make that much of a difference with midbass? if i've got 2 10w7's would they make much of a diff? i have kappa 6.5's now. I just cant justify payin around $500 each for the m6's
M-6's are not $500.00. I have the M-6 right now for $249.00 and the M-6+ can be had for $349.00. The excursion on your W3 is about 13mm. The M-6 has 10mm and the M-6+ has 12mm of excursion. For a midwoofer this is very good, more than the average 10" or 12" subwoofer. That being said of course...it doesn't have the surface area of a larger sub but they both do move alot of air and have a heck of alot more range than a subwoofer would have. For those not needing a huge bass system those would be a great option.
The m6+`s play very low. Meaning they get very low in the frequency range. They have a lot of punch to them as well. There is no comparison to the kappa`s to the m6+`s. The m6+`s are a true midbass speaker. They will bridge the gap between a good set of door components and a good sub in the rear. With my upstage setup in the a-pillars, I can`t pinpoint where the sound is coming from. It just sounds like there`s a band playing on top of my dash.
M-6's are not $500.00. I have the M-6 right now for $249.00 and the M-6+ can be had for $349.00. The excursion on your W3 is about 13mm. The M-6 has 10mm and the M-6+ has 12mm of excursion. For a midwoofer this is very good, more than the average 10" or 12" subwoofer. That being said of course...it doesn't have the surface area of a larger sub but they both do move alot of air and have a heck of alot more range than a subwoofer would have. For those not needing a huge bass system those would be a great option.
and i have have W7's i just wanted to know if i was missing some range between the kappa's and w7's... i also have kicker mmb6's...
i would kill for the setup in this thread tho
very nice
Thanks, I feel like I practically did to get this stuff and get it installed. Although, I am far from done. I finally got the sub temporarily mounted and hooked up. WOW! That thing hits and I haven`t even turned it up yet. I still need to update this with some pics. It took a long time to get it to where it is now. I`m going to have to install some deadener in the trunk well. I can hear the sub resonating back there. Doesn`t help the sound of the sub.