Need Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
ashton
Sounds like your alarm is doing its job, if the system you have has a ignition killer built into it.. Ifs that the case I would call the company that made the alarm or the people that installed it and see what they can do
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If your car is running fine after the jump with your newest battery I would think you might have gotten a defective battery and would replace it again.
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With the car off, you should get around 20mA (.02A) draw, or no greater than around 50mA (.05A). Be sure to give the retained accessory power (RAP) time to shut off (< 1min). If you're getting a higher amperage draw than the above, something is wrong, and that's when you start pulling fuses until the amperage draw lessens. When it does, you've found the problem circuit.
You've had nothing but problems with this car since you bought it, hunh?
Hope you get things figured out -- be sure to post the results of the alternator test, and I wouldn't rule out a bad new battery. I would advise doing what Alex said.
My only other thought in regard to the alternator is the exciter wire which hooks on the back. That's what tells the alternator when to charge. On my car, the little female clip inside the connector snapped off, and thus killed my charging system. This would be apparent when your battery gauge needle is in the yellow, but still something to check (even if the alternator tests out fine).
I've heard of alarm systems discharging the battery over time, which is normal, but it certainly shouldn't happen overnight. I would expect that over a couple week's period, perhaps. When some batteries sit discharged for a long time (like your old battery), they can't be revived, which is presumably why they created deep-cycle batteries.
Next time the car sits for a long period of time, get a "battery tender" / trickle charger. They're far cheaper than replacing a battery.

