How to disable Security Light...Cluster is already out!
How to disable Security Light...Cluster is already out! I just bought this Camaro a few weeks ago and I bought it knowing that it has a glitched alarm system. I bought it from a kid who bought a remote control off of ebay and wired it himself to make the alarm work. You can't lock the doors with the remote or the alarm will go off. If you lock it from inside, the alarm will still go off on rare occasions. So i basically never lock the doors because of this horrible alarm he has installed. I locked my doors yesterday because i was in a not-so-good neighborhood, and when i got in my car, the Security light was on. I had no trouble starting it or driving it and i know it has to have something to do with the glitched system he has on it. Since i can't get the light to go off, i decided to just unplug the light from the cluster.
I took out the cluster, looked for a place to unplug the light, but i see none on the back. I thought there'd be cables running to each light but that isn't the case. I'm just wondering, since i already have the cluster out, how do i disable the security light from coming on? Any help would be appreciated.
I took out the cluster, looked for a place to unplug the light, but i see none on the back. I thought there'd be cables running to each light but that isn't the case. I'm just wondering, since i already have the cluster out, how do i disable the security light from coming on? Any help would be appreciated.
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Joined: Feb 2008
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In my boyfriends 98 TA he had a security light problem. but his car would sometimes not turn on and he would have to wait like 4 minutes or something for it to turn off. but the light didn't always turn on. I bought him a remote starter and when it was installed, properly im assuming... the light didn't come on anymore. I know that totally doesn't help you.. but i think they might have said it was either his wiring or the chip thing in the key.
good luck
good luck
Yea I've heard about the chip in the key going bad and causing problems starting. I have literally started this car about a dozen times since the light came on, though, and haven't had a single issue once. I don't think my security light problem is the same as most people's. I think it's on because of the glitched alarm system that the previous owner has done.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,330
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
The security light in the gauge cluster has absolutely nothing to do with the alarm system. The previous owner would have had to do some serious (and completely unnecessary) modifications to connect that light to his modified alarm system.
So do you think I'm just running into the same problem everyone else is? Most people seem to have trouble starting their cars when the light is on. I do not have a remote start option and I also haven't had a single issue starting it.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,330
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
It depends on whether the VATS system goes bad with the car on or off. If it fails when attempting to start the car then you will not be able to start the car until the problem is fixed (clean key, different key, etc.). If it fails when the car is already running, you will be able to start the car again but the security light will remain on and the VATS system is effectively disabled.
It sounds like the second situation happened in your case. The problem is that once the BCM is reset (e.g. by disconnecting the battery for service) the second situation can become the first - the car won't start. I would suggest trying the usual fixes for VATS problems and then maybe bypass the VATS system if you still can't get the light to go off.
It sounds like the second situation happened in your case. The problem is that once the BCM is reset (e.g. by disconnecting the battery for service) the second situation can become the first - the car won't start. I would suggest trying the usual fixes for VATS problems and then maybe bypass the VATS system if you still can't get the light to go off.
Alright, well i proceeded to re-install the gauge cluter. I'm glad i made this post. I would have sworn it had to be something with the ebay remote he installed and programmed himself.
I know you think #2 happened, but the very first time i EVER saw the security light was while starting the car yesterday. I would think that if it was #2, the light would've came on while i was driving. Since it came on before i started it, i would've thought if the VATS was going bad, it already would have since the light was on. I'm still confused.
I know you think #2 happened, but the very first time i EVER saw the security light was while starting the car yesterday. I would think that if it was #2, the light would've came on while i was driving. Since it came on before i started it, i would've thought if the VATS was going bad, it already would have since the light was on. I'm still confused.
Last edited by kilgothephenom; Apr 24, 2008 at 12:16 PM.
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Your problem is also a significant safety issue, so you'll definitely want to get it fixed. One should always lock the doors when driving.
In addition to keeping bad people out, the door locks are a key safety feature. In a bad crash, they help to keep the door from opening and thus help keep occupants from being ejected. (This is why many late model cars now have automatic door locks.)
In addition to keeping bad people out, the door locks are a key safety feature. In a bad crash, they help to keep the door from opening and thus help keep occupants from being ejected. (This is why many late model cars now have automatic door locks.)
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Verdad Gallardo Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,330
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Granted, although I'm sure I would open the door if a carjacker is standing there with a gun pointed at me. I lock only those doors next to empty seats to prevent somebody from just jumping in uninvited.
Sorry, no. A door that is unlocked will not be any less secure than a locked one. The latch strength is the same in either case. Locking the door merely disconnects the handles from the opening the latch - the latch is mechanically holding the door closed in exactly the same way regardless of whether locked or unlocked.
That's what seat belts are for! Anyone who is concerned enough about crash safety to worry about whether a locked door would better keep them from being ejected wouldn't be foolish enough to drive without seat belts.
The primary disadvantage of locked doors...if you are incapacitated because of an accident (or heart attack, etc.) then any rescuer has to break into the car to get you out. People who are paid for that (police, fire department, etc.) will normally have the tools to do it but your average good samaritan doesn't. It's even worse with recent model cars. Older cars used to disengage only the outside handle when the door was locked - you could still open the door from inside by just pulling the handle. Recent models disengage the inside handles as well, so the occupant can't get out without first unlocking the door before pulling the door handle. This may not seem like much but in a panic situation it could be a life or death issue.
This is a debatable point. There are pros and cons to driving with doors locked so the decision should be made when you know all the implications.
Granted, although I'm sure I would open the door if a carjacker is standing there with a gun pointed at me. I lock only those doors next to empty seats to prevent somebody from just jumping in uninvited.
Sorry, no. A door that is unlocked will not be any less secure than a locked one. The latch strength is the same in either case. Locking the door merely disconnects the handles from the opening the latch - the latch is mechanically holding the door closed in exactly the same way regardless of whether locked or unlocked.
That's what seat belts are for! Anyone who is concerned enough about crash safety to worry about whether a locked door would better keep them from being ejected wouldn't be foolish enough to drive without seat belts.
The primary disadvantage of locked doors...if you are incapacitated because of an accident (or heart attack, etc.) then any rescuer has to break into the car to get you out. People who are paid for that (police, fire department, etc.) will normally have the tools to do it but your average good samaritan doesn't. It's even worse with recent model cars. Older cars used to disengage only the outside handle when the door was locked - you could still open the door from inside by just pulling the handle. Recent models disengage the inside handles as well, so the occupant can't get out without first unlocking the door before pulling the door handle. This may not seem like much but in a panic situation it could be a life or death issue.
Granted, although I'm sure I would open the door if a carjacker is standing there with a gun pointed at me. I lock only those doors next to empty seats to prevent somebody from just jumping in uninvited.
Sorry, no. A door that is unlocked will not be any less secure than a locked one. The latch strength is the same in either case. Locking the door merely disconnects the handles from the opening the latch - the latch is mechanically holding the door closed in exactly the same way regardless of whether locked or unlocked.
That's what seat belts are for! Anyone who is concerned enough about crash safety to worry about whether a locked door would better keep them from being ejected wouldn't be foolish enough to drive without seat belts.
The primary disadvantage of locked doors...if you are incapacitated because of an accident (or heart attack, etc.) then any rescuer has to break into the car to get you out. People who are paid for that (police, fire department, etc.) will normally have the tools to do it but your average good samaritan doesn't. It's even worse with recent model cars. Older cars used to disengage only the outside handle when the door was locked - you could still open the door from inside by just pulling the handle. Recent models disengage the inside handles as well, so the occupant can't get out without first unlocking the door before pulling the door handle. This may not seem like much but in a panic situation it could be a life or death issue.
Ture - there are two sides to the debate. In most engineering circles, arguments for keeping doors unlocked are concidered to be urban myth because we all have a greater chance of being ejected in a crash than coming across a situation where a locked door would be bad. (This would probably be a good one for the Mythbusters! OK - I'm a fan.) The statistics/equation also changes depending on the car, year, door, etc.
There are defiintely cons to having your doors locked. From the outside, EMS technicians can easliy get in to a locked car. From the inside, I carry one of these in all my vehicles: http://www.redboxtools.com/detail.cfm?productID=1482 Press it against any window and it will shatter if you are trapped in the car. (Also handy if one finds themself in a good samaritin situation.)
Normal seatbelts won't keep a passenger in the car by themselves. If the car spins or flips, one can still be ejected. (Only a 5+ point harness can protect against this alone.) The door and seatbelt together keep people in. That being said, the door latch is the primary protection to keep the door from opening. The flaw in our doors is the linkage in the door that connect the handles together. If these rods get bent in a crash, they can cause create an action similar to pulling up on the door handle, which will disengage the latch. The door lock protects against that scenario from happening. Newer cars are starting to be made with cable releases instead of the mechanical linkages to help solve this complication.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,330
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
I haven't seen engineering reports or anything like that but I find this hard to believe. I've been to those demonstrations the police do with a car shell on a spindle that they spin to simulate a rollover. The shell has no doors (so you can see what happens) and yet the belted-in mannequins don't get ejected even after being rolled multiple times (the improperly restrained infant in the child seat comes flying out). Besides, it seems to me that you'd have to be split in half in order to slip out from under the lap belt (in which case being ejected isn't a major concern).
Indeed, its a pretty rare occurance. One pretty much has to fold in half to get out of the belt, which requires a very high energy crash. Smaller people and childeren are more prone to have this problem. Here's an article that cites a statistic that 1 in 100 ejections happen to seat belt wearers. I've seen entineering video of this happenign before, but don't recall where. http://editorial.autos.msn.com/artic...umentid=434695
BTW - Here's one that will bring tears to our eyes: http://www.car-accidents.com/pages/a...ry/5-5-01.html (I don't think locking the door would have had any impact on this outcome! - Our roof hatches are probably a greater hazzard to us?)
BTW - Here's one that will bring tears to our eyes: http://www.car-accidents.com/pages/a...ry/5-5-01.html (I don't think locking the door would have had any impact on this outcome! - Our roof hatches are probably a greater hazzard to us?)
that security light is on the class II data bus i think, it could be a number of things. in car light circuits, door circuits. its more than just a starter kill or something like that. if you pull the RADIO fuse and cut the key off and back on, it should start flashing trouble codes. i'm not sure of the sequence of the key movements, but i know you have to pull the RADIO fuse. that will be the first step to fixing the problem. maybe someone else will chime in with the exact key sequence, or it may be in a sticky or something.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,330
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
No, the light is just an LED. It gets power through the PWR ACCY fuse via an orange wire and is controlled by the BCM providing ground through the gray wire in position C12 of the blue connector at the BCM.
I suppose you could disable the light by disconnecting or cutting the ground control wire at the BCM but it is probably better to determine why it's staying on rather than risk being stranded some day.
I suppose you could disable the light by disconnecting or cutting the ground control wire at the BCM but it is probably better to determine why it's staying on rather than risk being stranded some day.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,330
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
No resistor necessary. Unlike a bulb, the stock LED doesn't provide enough resistance for the BCM to tell whether it's there or not.
