how should i? 
how should i?
Your amp has to be stable at 2 ohms, so you can wire each sub to different channel in parallel, creating two 2 ohm loads. If you haven't already bought this amp, I'd recommend going with a 1 ohm stable class D amp instead. It's made for that. Do you already have the subs and amp?
yeah i already have the subs and amp . the subs are pioneer premier(not sure of exact model # but its 800 watt 12") and i got a POS amp ( Legacy LA-2088 American Series 2400 Watt I think its the one with the blue and red leds)
Last edited by camaro-94-z28; May 27, 2008 at 09:26 AM.
It took a little searching, but I found the specs for you:
# SPECIFICATIONS:
* Output Power
o RMS @ 4-Ohms : 2 x 200W
o RMS @ 2-Ohms : 2 x 300W
o MAX Output : 2 x 1200W
o Bridge Mode : 1 x 2400W
* Frequency Response : 10Hz-30kHz
* Input Impedance
o Low Level Inputs : 10k-Ohms
o High Level Inputs : 100 Ohms
* Input Sensitivity
o Low Level Inputs : 250 mV
o High Level Inputs : 2.5V
* Power Supply Voltage : 14.4 VDC/NEG GD (10.5-16V)
* Matching Speaker Impedance
o Stereo Mode : 2-4 Ohms
o Bridged Mode : 4-8 Ohms
* Maximum Current Draw : 50A
* Dimensions (WxHxL) : 11.38" x 2.48" x 19" (289mm x 63mm x 482mm)
So you'll be getting 300W rms X 2 @ 2 ohms. I'm not sure about the subs, as I'm having difficulty finding them on the net. Judging by most Pioneers, though, if they are 800W max, they're probably about 200 - 250W rms, so you should be just fine.
# SPECIFICATIONS:
* Output Power
o RMS @ 4-Ohms : 2 x 200W
o RMS @ 2-Ohms : 2 x 300W
o MAX Output : 2 x 1200W
o Bridge Mode : 1 x 2400W
* Frequency Response : 10Hz-30kHz
* Input Impedance
o Low Level Inputs : 10k-Ohms
o High Level Inputs : 100 Ohms
* Input Sensitivity
o Low Level Inputs : 250 mV
o High Level Inputs : 2.5V
* Power Supply Voltage : 14.4 VDC/NEG GD (10.5-16V)
* Matching Speaker Impedance
o Stereo Mode : 2-4 Ohms
o Bridged Mode : 4-8 Ohms
* Maximum Current Draw : 50A
* Dimensions (WxHxL) : 11.38" x 2.48" x 19" (289mm x 63mm x 482mm)
So you'll be getting 300W rms X 2 @ 2 ohms. I'm not sure about the subs, as I'm having difficulty finding them on the net. Judging by most Pioneers, though, if they are 800W max, they're probably about 200 - 250W rms, so you should be just fine.
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Verdad Gallardo No, that wiring is for 2 ohm DVC subs. Double check to make sure, but yours are most likely 4 ohm DVC. If that's the case, your wiring should look like this. . . 
That should be right, but someone correct me if I'm wrong.
That should be right, but someone correct me if I'm wrong.
as stated you most likely have 4 ohm DVC subs. in which case the rockford diagram you posted would actually run both subs at 4 ohm, which would work but would not give the subs the power they can get. so hatchetman's diagram above would be the best option for you to wire your subs.
so i missed something up big time (i think) after i turned everything on i blow 2 fuses instantly in the amp. then un hooked the ground put 2 new fuses in touched the ground back on then blow the new fusses. then touched the negative to the postive and created a huge arch. do you guys think that screwed my amp? im going to look at it next monday (way to busy untill then)
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Test everything to make sure it's all ok.
Do you have a multimeter? Set it to Ohms, that Omega looking symbol and check each voice coil on each sub. If they're bad, they'll probably be below 1.
Check the amp by unplugging the speakers and RCA inputs. If it turns on and is stable, the amp should be ok.
Then turn the amp off and plug in the RCA inputs. If the fuse pops, you've got a problem with the RCA inputs.
Most likely, the problem is wiring of the subs. I've seen the same diagram you've got from Rockford Fosgate at Crutchfield. However, the same diagram at Crutchfield says that wiring would yield a 2 ohm load.
I recently had a buddy with the exact same problem. No matter how I wired the subs, the fuse kept popping. We got new subs, and it didn't fix anything. We exchanged the first amp for a new one, and all the problems went away...
Do you have a multimeter? Set it to Ohms, that Omega looking symbol and check each voice coil on each sub. If they're bad, they'll probably be below 1.
Check the amp by unplugging the speakers and RCA inputs. If it turns on and is stable, the amp should be ok.
Then turn the amp off and plug in the RCA inputs. If the fuse pops, you've got a problem with the RCA inputs.
Most likely, the problem is wiring of the subs. I've seen the same diagram you've got from Rockford Fosgate at Crutchfield. However, the same diagram at Crutchfield says that wiring would yield a 2 ohm load.
I recently had a buddy with the exact same problem. No matter how I wired the subs, the fuse kept popping. We got new subs, and it didn't fix anything. We exchanged the first amp for a new one, and all the problems went away...
^ i got it fixed. i dont know what happend but i wired it the same way but with different wires. blow the fuses once then put another set of fuses in and it works 
but at least its working
but at least its working