Charging Issue Driving Me NUTZZZ!!!!
#22
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I will go get a multimeter and test all of those relays. I will let you know what I find out. Is there a way to check the fuse in the start without just replacing the whole starter. Thank you very much for all of your help so far.
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I dont know much about the starter, maybe someone else can give their input, but if it a starter issue then the relay for it should be b/o, its a place to start anyways.
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I seem to have found the problem now that it is cooler outside. The only time my voltage drops is when the high fans come on. When the low fans cut on the needle slightly moves... but when the high fans come on it just drops like a rock. Any suggestions?
#26
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I would just pull all the fuses that you can (while still letting you use the car) and seeing if it still happens for starters. Also make sure your battery and alternator cables are in good shape. Make sure your battery is not leaking from the battery terminal - this is a common problem with side-terminal batteries especially AC Delco brand (actually, I've heard their batteries got better in the later part of this decade, but that doesn't make them immune). Acid can get down the cable and eat away at it even if it's not visible otherwise. I would consider just upgrading the cables anyway if you can't find the circuit that's shorted out.
You can also measure the current for a circuit. You might not even end up needing to do this, but here's how if you need to or otherwise decide to. Get an inline fuse holder and a variety of fuses. Make sure to get one that will take a fairly high current fuse - at least as high as the highest fuse in your car. Get a high-current ammeter. Put one crimp tab on one of the fuse wires, put the ammeter to the other, then connect the other side of the ammeter to another wire with a tab on the end. Put in the correct fuse value and temporarily swap a fuse with it. Make sure none of your connections touch each other or a metal part of the car. Use insulators if you need to. Make sure not to test a circuit that is too high a current for your ammeter or you will most likely smoke the meter.
You can also measure the current for a circuit. You might not even end up needing to do this, but here's how if you need to or otherwise decide to. Get an inline fuse holder and a variety of fuses. Make sure to get one that will take a fairly high current fuse - at least as high as the highest fuse in your car. Get a high-current ammeter. Put one crimp tab on one of the fuse wires, put the ammeter to the other, then connect the other side of the ammeter to another wire with a tab on the end. Put in the correct fuse value and temporarily swap a fuse with it. Make sure none of your connections touch each other or a metal part of the car. Use insulators if you need to. Make sure not to test a circuit that is too high a current for your ammeter or you will most likely smoke the meter.
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I bought those new smart glow fuses. I am going to switch them all over this weekend I think. My battery terminals got switched when I did the big 3. I have an optima red top and all of the cables are now top mount. I have 0 guage cable for everything now. Is it possible the fans are messed up a little and are causing too much draw? I have tried everything, and the voltage is fine until my fans kick on...
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alright... I found both fuses for the cool fans... there is a mini 10A fuses and a huge 40A fuse... thats what the sheet says it should be as well.
#31
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Nothing going through a 40A fuse should be able to bring your alternator to its knees. I think the ammeter is in order. Something else could be loading it down, and then bringing the fans on pushes it over the edge.
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I am still having this charging problem and wondering what is going on... My battery never goes dead or anything... just super low voltage when sitting still and in drive or reverse...