subhumanzz

iTrader: (46)

Recently picked up a pump for the car but I am trying to figure out where I am supposed to put a gauge to set up the amount of vacuum i want to pull. I'm looking for around 11-12". Just not sure where i can hook a gauge to? Any help is appreciated.

csjta2

iTrader: (43)

I hooked mine to the Valley Cover

I have also seen them hooked to the valve cover

subhumanzz

iTrader: (46)

its going in the valve cover. the question is where can i hook up a gauge to set the amount of vacuum that i want it to pull ?

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Can you put a 2nd small fitting on the valve cover for the vac. gauge? That's how the last motor I had with a vac. pump was set up.. simple little bung on the valve cover that ran to the vac. gage.

The vacuum will be set by the bypass valve, and the ratio of the pump pulley's. Since you have the fitting on the valley cover from the breather you could put the pressure relief valve there, that way you can utilize that existing bung, and then run the line running to the pump off the valve cover... run the vac. ga. on the opposite cover, or wherever it's convenient.

I see ya got it to a 9.87, nice work. Did you make any changes to the setup or did the track/weather improve? I'm sure that the vac. pump, and if you put a sheet metal intake on that motor it's going to pick up a TON. Converter/gear change would probably help some too I bet, what's it going thru the traps at for rpm, curious on the converter effeciency, and where the motor's current power band is vs rpm.

What did the car come in @ weight wise too? We thought that motor, would run 9.50 in a 3200 lb car once it was sorted out fwiw.

subhumanzz

iTrader: (46)

I am using the gz pressure valve setup that goes into the stock valve cover and replaces the oil cap. since this obviously wont work with the valve cover setup i have. i had to cut the bottom part that threads into the stock vc off then drill and weld the oil fill cap from the moroso vc onto it. just wasnt sure where to check the actual crankcase vacuum at. im guessing that a gauge will have a standard 1/8 npt fitting to hook into. wonder if i can just put one of them into the oil cap/ pressure relief piece as thats where its actually going to be pulling from. as far as picking up the little bit of time from the previous pb it was a trackside change with some timing and a bit more fuel up top. i am getting ready to change the 4200 n2o converter out for a 8" fti 5800 in the next few weeks. so between that and the pump im hoping it will pick up a bit. the last time i ran the car the rw was 3340. i have been pulling a bit more weight out during the off season and plan on also doing drag brakes, spindles and a manual brake master. hopefully get it down to 3100 or less before next season opens. i dont think a 9.5x is out of the question. then probably change the converter back and put a kit on it.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

The crankcase, vacuum you can get a reading on anywhere, it should have the same vacuum no matter where you put the ga in the motor... so I'd say put it anywhere you want.

Makes sense what you did with the cap and the pickup, etc. That should work fine, and at least you know it won't have a clearance problem in the valve covers, as you know there's not alot of room in there even with the taller covers you have.

Little fine tuning and it will pick up more I bet. I would also bet, that even with that converter you're putting in it that it will be o.k. with a 100 shot, with the way the motor was built I wouldn't put much more then 150, 200 max to it without regapping the rings. But, I bet even with 150 to it the car's absolutley going into the 8 second zone for sure.

If you can get it under 3200, even with that intake, and the vacuum pump, and the right converter I am pretty sure that it will go 9.50 That converter you're putting in it probably will take .2 off, and the pump will probably get you another 20 to 25 hp, should be close to a tenth there.

A sheet metal intake, is what that motor really wants. You could also give the single plane mast a shot, since they should be able to do one to match their ls7 head just about perfect... if you change that I bet it will go 9.40 to 9.30 @ 3100 lbs.

I figured with a sheet metal intake, at 2800 lbs where my car was going to be with it 9.20 was doable. You get down to 2800 (not cheap or easy) and you'll probably see the same results... regardless, the thing is going pretty good for just getting started I think

subhumanzz

iTrader: (46)

originally i was thinking about the vacuum port where the brake booster plugs in or the back of the tb but thats gonna give me manifold vacuum and not show what its pulling from the crankcase. thats why i was wondering where people were checking it from. i can adjust it from the vacuum control valve and i dont wanna pull to much and starve the wrist pins. i was looking at the mast ls7 4500 single plane as the car is still starving for air in the upper rpm range. i was told that a 4500 tb/ intake would help. just dont have the coin for it right now. added a link in my sig too, check it out.

csjta2

iTrader: (43)

Well that's what I meant, I'll try to explain a lil better

My Vacuum Pump pulls off the Front of the Drivers Side Valve Cover.

I have my Vacuum Gauge going to the Valley Cover. That way I can see what amount of Vacuum I have on the Crankcase. I actually use -4an hose for the Vacuum Gauge.

I could have also went to the Passenger Side Valve Cover for the Vacuum Gauge, but I already had a port in the Valley Cover

If ya need pics let me know

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Yeah, anywhere you hook it to the crankcase itself will give you what you're pulling for vacuum.

10 to 12 in would be all I would run.. 10 would probably be enough to make a difference, if you can, I'd get it back on the dyno, and try it at 10 and at 12, if you don't see any real difference I'd just set it at 10 and call it a day. If and when you ever have the motor apart for any reason, if you ever have to change the pistons or anything like that you can get a coated wrist pin that will allow for more vacuum, just in case ya ever get into it that far for some reason. There's also a way to put an oil squirter in there to spray at the back of the pistons, some machining needed, but that's another way. Probably not cheap, but I know it can be done (kurt urban)

The mast intake with a 4500 would probably help alot.... but being that you already have one 4150, when the funds become available, I would look into having a sheet metal made, and use 2 4150 Tb's on the top of it. You already have one so that saves you the $ there... if you had one made to take 2 of them, I bet it would made a good 20+ over even the 4500 mast over 7000 rpm, and realisticially you should be shifting that thing at 7800 and the thing probably will drop back to 6700 or so on the shift extension once you get the good converter in the car.

The timing set is also adjustable, you could play with the advance/retard a bunch, there was a good bit of valve clearance in the motor, probably can get some more out of it there if you try re-degreeing the cam to advance it (lower power band, or raise it if you go sheet metal intake)

What did you put on that motor for a headers, I don't recall what you had on it... there's some people around your area that can build a custom set, if you get some extra money you may be able to pick something up there too, if you had a set built for it.

Alot left, if you want to take the time and spend the $ to get it I'm sure.

subhumanzz

iTrader: (46)

im not looking to install a permanent gauge, just one to set it up and occasionally check it. pics are always a help and welcome. i appreciate it. @ JL is just has kooks 1 7/8" headers.

BES Stroked Nova

iTrader: (24)

valley cover here for me for the gauge, and I got a perm gauge in the car. Also watch the oil pressure when getting above 8-9".

I got a moroso pump, with their inlet fitting to the pump as a pressure regulator. nice clean install.

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

You need to find a way to log it going down track.
It is one of the best things to look at.... it can tell you when you are unsettling the rings (detonating).

subhumanzz

iTrader: (46)

How are you logging it down track? So you're saying I might as well just install a gauge in the car then?

LS1SpeedAddict

iTrader: (9)

XFI logs the vacuum sensor. Installing a gauge will only help if you can watch it down the track. Also you adjust your vacuum based on rpm no at idle.

VIPRETR2

iTrader: (63)

I just installed the same setup. I mounted a Autometer vac guage in the center HVAC hole in the dash and ran a line out of the passenger compartment out of the wiring harness connection by the clutch pedal. Just drilled a small hole through and hooked it up to the pass. rear VC with a 90 degree plastic elbow with a rubber nipple cover with a small hole for the hose and RTVed around the vac hose. Works great for testing the setup. I'll try to get some pics to you tomorrow if you want.

BTW, after I got that Moser rear and LS6 block from you I did buy a set of RTS wheels. They look great.

subhumanzz

iTrader: (46)

I knew you would, im sure they look good.

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

Easy with XFI like Shawn said.
Not sure how you can do it with a stock PCM? Map sensor?

Not saying it's a must, we didn't log it for years but now that we do it's nice and is just another good piece of info to have when looking at the tune up between runs.

studderin

iTrader: (28)

whats the gains from this?
How about on a stock LS1 that revs to maybe 7K.

subhumanzz

iTrader: (46)

got my oil cap welded up and back from the welder today. just waiting on the new valley cover to show up so i can get the gauge installed (ended up picking up an auto-meter ultralite ).

studderin

iTrader: (28)

bump.