Car shuts off when braking and stopping
#1
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: The beautiful Kingdom of Bahrain
Posts: 2,401
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car shuts off when braking and stopping
Every time I come to a stop the car shuts off. Just driving for 3 minutes Ill hold the brakes to stop and the idle rpm's drop really low and shuts off. What could be causing this?
#5
How does the car run at idle? Don't suppose you have datalogging software?
Few thoughts:
If you don't have datalogging software, you could use a vacuum gauge to see what the engine is pulling. Otherwise, if you have datalogging capabilities, subtract the MAP readings from the BAR readings to get a general idea of engine vacuum (I prefer using "Hg as opposed to kPa).
Just a thought, but I'd be curious to see the idle-air controller (IAC) numbers -- both while parked at idle and while decelerating. With your modifications, it's possible that you simply don't have enough volume of air entering the engine (with the throttle closed) to sustain the engine. That is, the IAC would be maxed out at 160 counts and still wouldn't be allowing enough air in. The solution would either be to either crack open the throttle blades via the throttle stop screw (which may have adverse effects), or try to enlarge the IAC passage in the BBK TB.
Additionally, how many miles are on this engine (as I see it's a rebuild)? I take it the rings have had time to seat -- has the compression ever been tested?
Lastly, depending on what you find out about the engine, you might need to look into running a vacuum reserve tank for the brakes. It looks like you have a decent sized cam, though the extra cubic inches will effectively "tame" the camshaft...
Few thoughts:
If you don't have datalogging software, you could use a vacuum gauge to see what the engine is pulling. Otherwise, if you have datalogging capabilities, subtract the MAP readings from the BAR readings to get a general idea of engine vacuum (I prefer using "Hg as opposed to kPa).
Just a thought, but I'd be curious to see the idle-air controller (IAC) numbers -- both while parked at idle and while decelerating. With your modifications, it's possible that you simply don't have enough volume of air entering the engine (with the throttle closed) to sustain the engine. That is, the IAC would be maxed out at 160 counts and still wouldn't be allowing enough air in. The solution would either be to either crack open the throttle blades via the throttle stop screw (which may have adverse effects), or try to enlarge the IAC passage in the BBK TB.
Additionally, how many miles are on this engine (as I see it's a rebuild)? I take it the rings have had time to seat -- has the compression ever been tested?
Lastly, depending on what you find out about the engine, you might need to look into running a vacuum reserve tank for the brakes. It looks like you have a decent sized cam, though the extra cubic inches will effectively "tame" the camshaft...
#6
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: The beautiful Kingdom of Bahrain
Posts: 2,401
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Alex94TAGT
How does the car run at idle? Don't suppose you have datalogging software?
Few thoughts:
If you don't have datalogging software, you could use a vacuum gauge to see what the engine is pulling. Otherwise, if you have datalogging capabilities, subtract the MAP readings from the BAR readings to get a general idea of engine vacuum (I prefer using "Hg as opposed to kPa).
Just a thought, but I'd be curious to see the idle-air controller (IAC) numbers -- both while parked at idle and while decelerating. With your modifications, it's possible that you simply don't have enough volume of air entering the engine (with the throttle closed) to sustain the engine. That is, the IAC would be maxed out at 160 counts and still wouldn't be allowing enough air in. The solution would either be to either crack open the throttle blades via the throttle stop screw (which may have adverse effects), or try to enlarge the IAC passage in the BBK TB.
Additionally, how many miles are on this engine (as I see it's a rebuild)? I take it the rings have had time to seat -- has the compression ever been tested?
Lastly, depending on what you find out about the engine, you might need to look into running a vacuum reserve tank for the brakes. It looks like you have a decent sized cam, though the extra cubic inches will effectively "tame" the camshaft...
Few thoughts:
If you don't have datalogging software, you could use a vacuum gauge to see what the engine is pulling. Otherwise, if you have datalogging capabilities, subtract the MAP readings from the BAR readings to get a general idea of engine vacuum (I prefer using "Hg as opposed to kPa).
Just a thought, but I'd be curious to see the idle-air controller (IAC) numbers -- both while parked at idle and while decelerating. With your modifications, it's possible that you simply don't have enough volume of air entering the engine (with the throttle closed) to sustain the engine. That is, the IAC would be maxed out at 160 counts and still wouldn't be allowing enough air in. The solution would either be to either crack open the throttle blades via the throttle stop screw (which may have adverse effects), or try to enlarge the IAC passage in the BBK TB.
Additionally, how many miles are on this engine (as I see it's a rebuild)? I take it the rings have had time to seat -- has the compression ever been tested?
Lastly, depending on what you find out about the engine, you might need to look into running a vacuum reserve tank for the brakes. It looks like you have a decent sized cam, though the extra cubic inches will effectively "tame" the camshaft...
Ive tried adjusting the throttle blades but doing it that way it idle really high and surges higher.
The engine has been broken in. Had the engine in my Camaro for break in before moving it to the 93 corvette. In the Camaro it drove very well. No idle issues or anything special. Once it got into the Vette it went crazy. I really wish I could get something to datalog it so I could see what was going on. I think their may be a vaccum leak but looking over it I dont see it. Where is the best place to measue vacuum with a gauge? My next step is the IAC. I want to remove the throttle body also and enlarge the hole. What else should I be looking at?
#7
What version of Datamaster are you using?
If I'm understanding your situation correctly, I wasn't sure if perhaps your Camaro was a 1994-1997 and that's when you originally got Datamaster EE. Naturally, the 1993's require Datamaster DA. If you already got that covered, then nevermind.
Maybe there's just a communication error. Are you using a USB or the DB9/rs232 serial-style ALDL cable? Have you double-checked your COM port settings? The above link to TTS also has that "ALDL-Test" program -- might give that a shot. It seems I remember testing my cable using Hyperterminal, though I don't recall the directions to do so...
At this point, I think Datamaster would be your best weapon to fight this problem. Lets try to get that working...
If I'm understanding your situation correctly, I wasn't sure if perhaps your Camaro was a 1994-1997 and that's when you originally got Datamaster EE. Naturally, the 1993's require Datamaster DA. If you already got that covered, then nevermind.
Maybe there's just a communication error. Are you using a USB or the DB9/rs232 serial-style ALDL cable? Have you double-checked your COM port settings? The above link to TTS also has that "ALDL-Test" program -- might give that a shot. It seems I remember testing my cable using Hyperterminal, though I don't recall the directions to do so...
At this point, I think Datamaster would be your best weapon to fight this problem. Lets try to get that working...
Trending Topics
#8
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: The beautiful Kingdom of Bahrain
Posts: 2,401
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Alex94TAGT
What version of Datamaster are you using?
If I'm understanding your situation correctly, I wasn't sure if perhaps your Camaro was a 1994-1997 and that's when you originally got Datamaster EE. Naturally, the 1993's require Datamaster DA. If you already got that covered, then nevermind.
Maybe there's just a communication error. Are you using a USB or the DB9/rs232 serial-style ALDL cable? Have you double-checked your COM port settings? The above link to TTS also has that "ALDL-Test" program -- might give that a shot. It seems I remember testing my cable using Hyperterminal, though I don't recall the directions to do so...
At this point, I think Datamaster would be your best weapon to fight this problem. Lets try to get that working...
If I'm understanding your situation correctly, I wasn't sure if perhaps your Camaro was a 1994-1997 and that's when you originally got Datamaster EE. Naturally, the 1993's require Datamaster DA. If you already got that covered, then nevermind.
Maybe there's just a communication error. Are you using a USB or the DB9/rs232 serial-style ALDL cable? Have you double-checked your COM port settings? The above link to TTS also has that "ALDL-Test" program -- might give that a shot. It seems I remember testing my cable using Hyperterminal, though I don't recall the directions to do so...
At this point, I think Datamaster would be your best weapon to fight this problem. Lets try to get that working...
#10
9-Second Club
iTrader: (1)
This is probably not it, but I seen several cars (all have been FWD so far, but is still possible) that the TCC won't release after being driven long enough to get it warmed. I would suggest you try pressing on the brake pedal to see if you can feel the TCC relasing when just driving along. When those cars did this it felt like you were trying to stop a stick shift car without pushing the clutch pedal down. The TCC solenoid in the tranny was sticking on those problem vehicles.
Good luck, Ed
Good luck, Ed
#11
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: The beautiful Kingdom of Bahrain
Posts: 2,401
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Ed Wright
This is probably not it, but I seen several cars (all have been FWD so far, but is still possible) that the TCC won't release after being driven long enough to get it warmed. I would suggest you try pressing on the brake pedal to see if you can feel the TCC relasing when just driving along. When those cars did this it felt like you were trying to stop a stick shift car without pushing the clutch pedal down. The TCC solenoid in the tranny was sticking on those problem vehicles.
Good luck, Ed
Good luck, Ed
#12
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: The beautiful Kingdom of Bahrain
Posts: 2,401
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
IAC count had to stay maxxed out to drive it. It surged and sputtered at part throttle, it jump in and out of closed and open loops, BPW mS reading was in the yellow, and I had DTC 15 cool temp low. Anyone here good at reading this? I'm about to throw it into VEMaster.
#13
Feel free to shoot me the log file: alex94tagt@gmail.com
What were your coolant temp readings throughout the log? Were they really low and/or jumpy? It sounds like the coolant sensor in the waterpump housing might need to be replaced -- though, I'd check the electrical connector/wiring harness first. This could theoretically cause the open loop/closed loop issue, but it's still a little premature to say...
Sounds like the IAC is an issue.
What were your coolant temp readings throughout the log? Were they really low and/or jumpy? It sounds like the coolant sensor in the waterpump housing might need to be replaced -- though, I'd check the electrical connector/wiring harness first. This could theoretically cause the open loop/closed loop issue, but it's still a little premature to say...
Sounds like the IAC is an issue.
#14
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: The beautiful Kingdom of Bahrain
Posts: 2,401
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Alex94TAGT
Feel free to shoot me the log file: alex94tagt@gmail.com
What were your coolant temp readings throughout the log? Were they really low and/or jumpy? It sounds like the coolant sensor in the waterpump housing might need to be replaced -- though, I'd check the electrical connector/wiring harness first. This could theoretically cause the open loop/closed loop issue, but it's still a little premature to say...
Sounds like the IAC is an issue.
What were your coolant temp readings throughout the log? Were they really low and/or jumpy? It sounds like the coolant sensor in the waterpump housing might need to be replaced -- though, I'd check the electrical connector/wiring harness first. This could theoretically cause the open loop/closed loop issue, but it's still a little premature to say...
Sounds like the IAC is an issue.
http://d.turboupload.com/de/1110032/upfk3iozie.html#
#15
Hey bro my buddy has a issue pretty close to the issue you had. He wanted me to ask you if you wouldn't mind giving him a call or if he could call you to go over some things. Thanks. His number is 209-648-7263 his name is Paul.