Clutch swap/trans removal sticky!!!
09-06-2007, 10:13 PM
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Clutch swap/trans removal!!! Since I just pulled it all today its fresh in my mind so here is goes. Correct me if I am wrong, I am tired right now and probably made mistakes.
Tools needed:Im probably missing a few but youll be OK.
-rachets
-sockets
-many extensions for rachet of varying lengths.
-rachet swivels
-screwdrivers
-big hammer maybe
-Impact wrench is a plus.
-Allen wrenches.
Note: It would be wise to use red high strength loctite on all bolts.
Removal
1. Unhook battery.
2. From inside car remove shift boot and remove shifter from trans by pulling the few screws that hold it on.
3. Lift car up.
4. Remove exhaust if it is going to in the way. My X-pipe setup was not in the way so I left it on.
5. Remove 4 bolts on the rear of driveshaft that hold the shaft to the pinion yoke.
6. Smack the back of the driveshaft out of the pinion yoke, then pull the DS down and back out of the trans and set aside.
7. Remove front torque arm mount bolt and pull front of arm out from trans.
8. Remove 2 rear bolts from torque arm and then pull arm out and set it aside. This step is not required but I highly suggest it to reduce **** being in the way.
9. Move all wiring away from the trans and unplug all sensor connectors that you can from the trans.
10. Remove trans crossmember center mount bolt.
11. Hold trans up with a trans jack or some improvised device.
12. Remove 4 tranmission crossmember bolts, the rear of the trans is now free.
13. Push the little tab on the connector of the master braided line and then pull the line out of the slave and tie it off out of the way.
14. Remove the bolts that hold the trans to the bellhousing, a few of them are a PITA to get out put be patient which I am not, and eventually you will be able to work them out. The trans is now free.
15. Manuever the trans out of the area by sliding it back to free the input shaft then bring it down, it is fairly heavy so be careful. You may have to hit it a few times to loosen it free from the bellhousing.
16. Remove the bolts that hold the bellhousing to the motor. These are also a PITA and require time. Use a 3/8 drive socket and extensions to get the upper ones, I could not get my 1/2 impact up there to get them out.
17. Remove bellhousing from block. It will probably take a few hits to break it loose.
18. Remove the bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel. Watch out that once loose the disk doesnt fall out on your foot or something.
19. If you are wise, go ahead and remove the flywheel bolts and pull the flywheel and have that bitch sent out for a resurface or to install a new one. Might as well install a new rear main seal while youre back there too.
20. Remove the pilot bearing if you want to, it is pressed in the crank. PITA to get out.
21. If you plan on installing a new slave go ahead and unbolt it and remove it from the trans.
Install
1. Press or tap lightly with a hammer to get the new pilot bearing in if you chose to replace it.
2. Install flywheel on back of crank and torque bolts to 75 ft-lbs.
3. Hold the disk and pressure plate up to the flywheel and start the bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel.
4. Insert the clutch alingment tool through the PP and disk and into the pilot bearing and keep it straight while you start tightening the pressure plate to flywheel bolts in a cross pattern. Tighten to 55 ft-lbs. Remove alignment tool.
5. Install bellhousing, tighten bolts to 35 ft-lbs
6. If you are installing a new slave, crack the bleeder screw on it and pour some brake fluid down through the bleeder screw hole, this will make it a bit quicker when it comes time to bleed the system. Tighten the bleeder screw, but not too tight then go ahead and bolt the slave to the trans, be sure to use red toctite on the bolts. Tighten them them not tight at all, the GM manual calls for 90 minch-lbs but I would even tighten them that much, more like 60 inch-lbs, you do not want these to strip. Also if you need a shim with your new clutch(SPEC owners) be sure to install it behind the slave cylinder now.
7. Get the tranny up there and get the input shaft into the pilot bearing and then bolt the trans to bellhousing bolts back up. Tighten them to 37 ft-lbs.
8. Reconnect the sensors for the trans before you bolt the rear crossmember back up.
9. Bolt the crossmember back to the body of the car and bolt the center bolt on the member that connects to the trans. I dont TQ these bolts, but you can if you want to.
10. Install torque arm and bolt it up.
11. Install driveshaft, tq these bolts to 25 ft-lbs.
12. Install exhaust if you removed it.
13. Install braided line end into slave cylinder.
14. Route and dress all wiring.
15. Install shifter and shift boot.
16. Reconnect battery.
17. Bleed hydros.
Tools needed:Im probably missing a few but youll be OK.
-rachets
-sockets
-many extensions for rachet of varying lengths.
-rachet swivels
-screwdrivers
-big hammer maybe
-Impact wrench is a plus.
-Allen wrenches.
Note: It would be wise to use red high strength loctite on all bolts.
Removal
1. Unhook battery.
2. From inside car remove shift boot and remove shifter from trans by pulling the few screws that hold it on.
3. Lift car up.
4. Remove exhaust if it is going to in the way. My X-pipe setup was not in the way so I left it on.
5. Remove 4 bolts on the rear of driveshaft that hold the shaft to the pinion yoke.
6. Smack the back of the driveshaft out of the pinion yoke, then pull the DS down and back out of the trans and set aside.
7. Remove front torque arm mount bolt and pull front of arm out from trans.
8. Remove 2 rear bolts from torque arm and then pull arm out and set it aside. This step is not required but I highly suggest it to reduce **** being in the way.
9. Move all wiring away from the trans and unplug all sensor connectors that you can from the trans.
10. Remove trans crossmember center mount bolt.
11. Hold trans up with a trans jack or some improvised device.
12. Remove 4 tranmission crossmember bolts, the rear of the trans is now free.
13. Push the little tab on the connector of the master braided line and then pull the line out of the slave and tie it off out of the way.
14. Remove the bolts that hold the trans to the bellhousing, a few of them are a PITA to get out put be patient which I am not, and eventually you will be able to work them out. The trans is now free.
15. Manuever the trans out of the area by sliding it back to free the input shaft then bring it down, it is fairly heavy so be careful. You may have to hit it a few times to loosen it free from the bellhousing.
16. Remove the bolts that hold the bellhousing to the motor. These are also a PITA and require time. Use a 3/8 drive socket and extensions to get the upper ones, I could not get my 1/2 impact up there to get them out.
17. Remove bellhousing from block. It will probably take a few hits to break it loose.
18. Remove the bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel. Watch out that once loose the disk doesnt fall out on your foot or something.
19. If you are wise, go ahead and remove the flywheel bolts and pull the flywheel and have that bitch sent out for a resurface or to install a new one. Might as well install a new rear main seal while youre back there too.
20. Remove the pilot bearing if you want to, it is pressed in the crank. PITA to get out.
21. If you plan on installing a new slave go ahead and unbolt it and remove it from the trans.
Install
1. Press or tap lightly with a hammer to get the new pilot bearing in if you chose to replace it.
2. Install flywheel on back of crank and torque bolts to 75 ft-lbs.
3. Hold the disk and pressure plate up to the flywheel and start the bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel.
4. Insert the clutch alingment tool through the PP and disk and into the pilot bearing and keep it straight while you start tightening the pressure plate to flywheel bolts in a cross pattern. Tighten to 55 ft-lbs. Remove alignment tool.
5. Install bellhousing, tighten bolts to 35 ft-lbs
6. If you are installing a new slave, crack the bleeder screw on it and pour some brake fluid down through the bleeder screw hole, this will make it a bit quicker when it comes time to bleed the system. Tighten the bleeder screw, but not too tight then go ahead and bolt the slave to the trans, be sure to use red toctite on the bolts. Tighten them them not tight at all, the GM manual calls for 90 minch-lbs but I would even tighten them that much, more like 60 inch-lbs, you do not want these to strip. Also if you need a shim with your new clutch(SPEC owners) be sure to install it behind the slave cylinder now.
7. Get the tranny up there and get the input shaft into the pilot bearing and then bolt the trans to bellhousing bolts back up. Tighten them to 37 ft-lbs.
8. Reconnect the sensors for the trans before you bolt the rear crossmember back up.
9. Bolt the crossmember back to the body of the car and bolt the center bolt on the member that connects to the trans. I dont TQ these bolts, but you can if you want to.
10. Install torque arm and bolt it up.
11. Install driveshaft, tq these bolts to 25 ft-lbs.
12. Install exhaust if you removed it.
13. Install braided line end into slave cylinder.
14. Route and dress all wiring.
15. Install shifter and shift boot.
16. Reconnect battery.
17. Bleed hydros.
Last edited by brad8266; 09-12-2007 at 10:54 AM.
they always leave that one out
11-22-2007, 10:40 PM
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Another Helpful piece of info in case you do not get a clutch alignment tool with your clutch is that it is a 26 spline 1 1/8th diameter shaft and they run about $7-8
..
11-26-2007, 12:14 PM
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It is a pain in the *** if you are doing it by yourself. I got my by myself and it was my first time. I also saved myself over $400 bucks pulling the trans, replacing the clutch and then reinstalling the trans. It was worth it in my opinion to do the work myself, and next time I'm sure it will go smoother!
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12-23-2007, 08:10 PM
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I have done this 4x without a lift.
My advice is to buy (4) really good jack stands. They are about $40 a pair. Make sure you have it as very high as possible, and when removing the transmission itself you may want to have the jack stands shimmed up a extra inch or 2. A good swivel socket greatly helps as well. One last piece of advice; you are bolting into aluminum the air ratchet may be nice for removal, but at least get your bolts started before using it.
My advice is to buy (4) really good jack stands. They are about $40 a pair. Make sure you have it as very high as possible, and when removing the transmission itself you may want to have the jack stands shimmed up a extra inch or 2. A good swivel socket greatly helps as well. One last piece of advice; you are bolting into aluminum the air ratchet may be nice for removal, but at least get your bolts started before using it.
12-28-2007, 06:32 PM
#11
I'm doing this right now (my first time) and it's really not as hard as some people make it sound. I only weigh 150 lbs and I pulled the trans out by myself without a jack. wasn't really that heavy. I'm definately going to have someone help me put it in just because it would be a bitch to have to hold it up for a long period of time. Don't waste your money paying someone else to do it.
01-16-2008, 07:55 PM
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I'm doing this right now (my first time) and it's really not as hard as some people make it sound. I only weigh 150 lbs and I pulled the trans out by myself without a jack. wasn't really that heavy. I'm definately going to have someone help me put it in just because it would be a bitch to have to hold it up for a long period of time. Don't waste your money paying someone else to do it.
02-06-2008, 02:36 AM
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I'm doing this right now (my first time) and it's really not as hard as some people make it sound. I only weigh 150 lbs and I pulled the trans out by myself without a jack. wasn't really that heavy. I'm definately going to have someone help me put it in just because it would be a bitch to have to hold it up for a long period of time. Don't waste your money paying someone else to do it.
02-20-2008, 07:38 PM
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i wish this sticky was here for my first clutch install. I had no idea what i was doing. I am now on my 2nd clutch, i got a cheap *** spec the first and it was gone in 6k. The stock one lasted me 95k and i had to replace the slave at the time so i figured i would do the clutch at the same time. I should have bought the mcleod way back then. And props to the guy that did it by himself. Me and a buddy were both doing it on our backs and i would say it was still a tad difficult
03-19-2008, 05:56 PM
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Took my buddy and me (first time ever for both of us) about 8-10 hours over all but we have to make a few tool runs in there too. Well it still isnt right at the moment, the clutch is not dissengaging all the way so I think it needs blead more.
