Wolfe 6pt, black carpet, black interior/dash
#1
Wolfe 6pt, black carpet, black interior/dash
I just recently finished installing my Wolfe 6pt bolt in cage, as well as brand new BLACK carpet, and I sem painted the interior panels including the dash. Let me tell you, this sem paint is tough stuff, I sprayed the boots even, and you can bend, twist, and move this stuff like you regularly would. I have no doubt it will hold up on the plastic panels, and dash, we'll see how the boots hold up once the cars getting driven again. The pictures make it look lighter, but the black is much darker then ebony panels. Suede forzas will be in the car sooner or later, and The whole interior will get matching suede accents like suede headliner, suede door inserts, a a couple more odds and ends to tie it all together.
What you guys think?
What you guys think?
#3
I bought it locally from some guy that bought it but never got around to installing it before be sold his 4th gen, apparently it was bought from accmats, but I don't have any way to verify that. It's thick, jute backed, black molded carpet. A lot better than the stock stuff. Still has some wrinkles and stuff in it from being folded up in a box, which should take care if itself once the car can sit in the sun a little bit. Being in the garage doesn't give it too much heat for it to settle.
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#8
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Looks great OP ... since I am still shaking mine down and buying other mods (line lock, 2-Step, front and rear coilovers), my roll bar will have to wait until next year.
By the way, the Wolfe 6-point bolt-in is the way I am going as well ... did you go mild steel or chromoly? Any disappointments in it?
By the way, the Wolfe 6-point bolt-in is the way I am going as well ... did you go mild steel or chromoly? Any disappointments in it?
#10
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Looks great OP ... since I am still shaking mine down and buying other mods (line lock, 2-Step, front and rear coilovers), my roll bar will have to wait until next year.
By the way, the Wolfe 6-point bolt-in is the way I am going as well ... did you go mild steel or chromoly? Any disappointments in it?
By the way, the Wolfe 6-point bolt-in is the way I am going as well ... did you go mild steel or chromoly? Any disappointments in it?
#12
Thanks man!
Looks great OP ... since I am still shaking mine down and buying other mods (line lock, 2-Step, front and rear coilovers), my roll bar will have to wait until next year.
By the way, the Wolfe 6-point bolt-in is the way I am going as well ... did you go mild steel or chromoly? Any disappointments in it?
By the way, the Wolfe 6-point bolt-in is the way I am going as well ... did you go mild steel or chromoly? Any disappointments in it?
The cage was very easy to install, and just following the instructions supplied made it a walk in the park. I did it by myself even, and as stated earlier. I'm far from a big guy. The only problems I had with the cage is the door bars, when my umi sfc's are installed, you can't put the bolts in the locations they were intended for. Also, make sure you have your door panels installed, I did my whole install without any installed, then had to redo my drivers side door bar mounts because the bar was hitting the door panel. I just moved it over about an inch, and it didn't hit anymore.
Thanks man, neither can I.
Thanks!
thanks!
On another note, the battery was moved to the spare tire area, and to avoid having to remove the rear panels to jump the car if battery issues arise, and so a battery tender can easily be hooked up without alot of hassle or disassembly of the rear of the car.. I hooked up some prc remote battery terminals under the car, pretty sleek if you ask me.
shouldn't be able to see it at all once the cars in the ground.
#14
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I doubt I'll have problems with scratching anything really. There won't be back seats, there won't be lousy seatbelts flying everywhere, and the fixed back seats combined with the fixed door bars will allow little to no access to kick the "kick"panels. I have no doubt it will hold up. Especially not being a daily.
I'm 5'11" 120lbs, the door bars don't really get in my way at all, with the seat out, working under the dash is simple. Hell, I'd rather pull the dash than work under it.
Thanks man!
I went with mild steel, just for the mere price difference, I couldnt justify that muh more money for a few lbs. the cars full interior pretty much anyways.
The cage was very easy to install, and just following the instructions supplied made it a walk in the park. I did it by myself even, and as stated earlier. I'm far from a big guy. The only problems I had with the cage is the door bars, when my umi sfc's are installed, you can't put the bolts in the locations they were intended for. Also, make sure you have your door panels installed, I did my whole install without any installed, then had to redo my drivers side door bar mounts because the bar was hitting the door panel. I just moved it over about an inch, and it didn't hit anymore.
Thanks man, neither can I.
Thanks!
thanks man. I almost want it to be satin black, and may change it after the interior is finished, and I decide rather or not I like it glossy.
thanks!
On another note, the battery was moved to the spare tire area, and to avoid having to remove the rear panels to jump the car if battery issues arise, and so a battery tender can easily be hooked up without alot of hassle or disassembly of the rear of the car.. I hooked up some prc remote battery terminals under the car, pretty sleek if you ask me.
shouldn't be able to see it at all once the cars in the ground.
I'm 5'11" 120lbs, the door bars don't really get in my way at all, with the seat out, working under the dash is simple. Hell, I'd rather pull the dash than work under it.
Thanks man!
I went with mild steel, just for the mere price difference, I couldnt justify that muh more money for a few lbs. the cars full interior pretty much anyways.
The cage was very easy to install, and just following the instructions supplied made it a walk in the park. I did it by myself even, and as stated earlier. I'm far from a big guy. The only problems I had with the cage is the door bars, when my umi sfc's are installed, you can't put the bolts in the locations they were intended for. Also, make sure you have your door panels installed, I did my whole install without any installed, then had to redo my drivers side door bar mounts because the bar was hitting the door panel. I just moved it over about an inch, and it didn't hit anymore.
Thanks man, neither can I.
Thanks!
thanks man. I almost want it to be satin black, and may change it after the interior is finished, and I decide rather or not I like it glossy.
thanks!
On another note, the battery was moved to the spare tire area, and to avoid having to remove the rear panels to jump the car if battery issues arise, and so a battery tender can easily be hooked up without alot of hassle or disassembly of the rear of the car.. I hooked up some prc remote battery terminals under the car, pretty sleek if you ask me.
shouldn't be able to see it at all once the cars in the ground.
#15
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On another note, the battery was moved to the spare tire area, and to avoid having to remove the rear panels to jump the car if battery issues arise, and so a battery tender can easily be hooked up without alot of hassle or disassembly of the rear of the car.. I hooked up some prc remote battery terminals under the car, pretty sleek if you ask me.
#16
Where are you going to add (or did you add already) your battery cut-off? I was actually thinking of relocating my battery to the center of the rear "hole" (t-top compartment in a t-top car) and have a removable cut-off behind my license plate. I don't "wear" my license plate at the track!
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I currently don't have a battery cut off switch installed, and most likely won't add one. This isn't a drag car, it's more of a autox/ road racing car, and the only reason I added the remote battery terminals was for ease of jump, ease of attaching battery maintainer while car is not used, and for the safety of not getting locked out of the car (my Berger panels is shaved of everything as well as the key hole, so the only way to get to the battery is the hatch which is electronically released.) I also plan on shaving the door handles, so in a situation where the battery was dead, there wouldn't be access to open the hatch, or doors without any power. The terminals allow me to jump power to the car remotely so I won't have any trouble getting into to the car, as well as easily connecting a maintainer to save my batteries life while in storage. Granted normally drag racing cars would use these terminals for between runs charging of the battery when not running an alternator. That however is not my case, as I'm running an alternator.