bigbomber5

Hey guys
I'm about ready to do a complete paint correction on my black WS6.
My question is, what's the safest way to strip my paint free of any wax/oils.
My next question is when to clay bar. Do I clay it before or after I strip the paint down.
Thanks!!

cranny

A wash with Dawn dish soap and you can clay it with a quick detail spray for lubrication.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Dawn is never recommended due to the pH levels but people do it as it seems everyone likes to do it. So do as you feel. You can use any car wash just get the grit off. I would not use anything that has wax as it is a waste.

Old wax will come off from the claying or even when your get to the correction cycle.

SOME products recommend a alcohol wipe down, meguiars does not so I wont speak beyond what I use.

LT4vert

iTrader: (3)

I only use alcohol wipe down after the polishing stage, just before applying the sealant. It removes the oils for polishing and allows the sealant to better bond with the surface.

The dawn, if used as a prep to remove wax before washing, does not do one ounce of damage to the surface of your car. Ive been, and alot more professional detailers have been using this practice for years. A dawn wash is cheap, and it just works.

Everyone seems to have their own little process. This is my prep process. Im overly sanitary about it because IMO its as important as the correction itself.

-First thing I do is the wheels and tires with their own towels and wash buckets
-Then I will move to the door jambs, trunk rails and engine bay. I want all the gunk or dirt or whatever gone from these areas before I wash the car.
-Then I'll move to the exterior, Spray the car down well
-Thoroughly wash the was car from top to bottom(< literally)
-Dry
-Then I will clay and work from the top to the bottom. I use ONR as a clay solution
-After I clay the car, I will re wash it, again using dawn
Dry it
-Then do any masking I need to do prior to correction work.

BOBS99SS

iTrader: (2)

have you done paint correction work before, or are you just going to use a pc with m105 205 combo?just becareful if its your first time, i have seen many bad f ups with guys not knowing what the f they are doing,just yesterday a kid brought his car in and he burned the paint right off the car, just do your homework, dawn works great, also i always clay bar before i start with a pc

CamaroSS27

iTrader: (6)

Ya dawn will work, and always keep the pc moving, adams and junkman have some great how to videos for beginners.

dabest09

iTrader: (1)

This is good advice.

Also read up on the ask a professional detailer thread.

98 WS6

iTrader: (20)

^^^^^
Ask no further.

Simply; wash, dry, clay, wash, dry, correction. Everything above is to minimize cross contamination, and damn good practice.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

I get my info right from Mike Stoops @ Meguiars so you can take it for what it is. I've used dawn and basic soap, as the bonded contaniments still come off on the clay, and if the car passes the "plastic bag test" then work on your correction all old layers are stripped away in the first pass of the pad.

Work blocks detailing sites so ill have to wait till after work to post some threads bout dawn. But for everyone, use what you like.

This is what I do for my cars...

https://ls1tech.com/forums/new-ls1-o...detailing.html

THIS IS NOT PERFECT but I think is helpful. PM me with questions.

-Exterior-

1) Inspection
- Take note of Trouble spots and Areas that need major attention.
- Decide the process in which to approach the vehicle, supplies, and time.

2) Pre Wash
- Good Mild soap, nothing with wax in it, no Dawn (due to pH issues). Good wash mitt, 2 bucket method

3) Clay
- Most times when doing correction you will need to clay the car, there or different types of clays out there in terms of aggressiveness. More aggressive will require correction.
- Using the Plastic Bag method (before washing) to feel for any texture is a great way to find areas that need it but in general the whole car gets done.
- With the car wet from rinsing, using a good non wax detailer for additional lubrication, I will clay the car ensuring removal of any surface containimates. *** This is the stuff that catches in a buffer that can damage the surface.

4) Re-wash
- To remove any left over clay and have a clean/dry surface to decide if your correcting or moving on to sealing.
- I use a good towel like Meguiar's Water Magnets, they absorb and low chance of swirling surface.
- Dry completely

5) Correction (optional) -This section should be a article in of itself-
- Tap off edges and or surfaces like trim, emblems, door handles/locks. 1" Blue or Green 3m tape.
- Paint Depth should be checked for the entire car and make sure you know how much clear you have to work with.
- Some cars need a rotary and then step down to a D/A to smooth. Or right to a D/A. Pad and chemical choice is dependant on the situation.
- Nice dark garage with good lighting for inspection of swirl marks, a hand held light can be useful.
- Re check paint depth and see how much you removed.

6) Re wash
- Be very careful, cleaned, leveled surface has no wax to protect so make sure to try to introduce as little of swirling as possible. Light pressure if none. A good compressed air for cracks. Slam the doors to make sure the car bleeds out.

7) Sealant/Wax
- Your choice; Carnuba or Synthetic, both have pluses and minuses. So do your research. There is no perfect way. It is the way that works for you.
- Do a light coat, buff off, and another light coat, then buff. The car should be allowed to cure (sometimes 5-8 hours or over night), The one final coat to give a solid protection layer.
- I recommend Meguiars Ultimate Quick Wax for in between wax boosting and the beading technology is impressive.

8) Final inspection
- Go over cracks, near trim, remove tape. Clean windows for the final pass.
- Look at different angles in the light to make sure left off wax residue has not been left on. I can be heavy handed so make sure you see no smears...

-Wheels/Wells-

1) Inspection
- Does the wheels need correction.
- Coated or Un coated metal.
- Does the wheels need removal.
- How does the wheels look??
- How aggressive does the chemical needs to be.

2) Rinse
- Spray down.
- Spray your choice of cleaner, be careful on un coated aluminum.
- Scrub with various brushes, semi stiff bristles.
- Rinse, inspect, repeat if needed.
- Some love using car soap as well and you can do this but I try to avoid dipping a towel back into any wash buckets due to fear of brake dust getting into a area that is supposed to be clean. (see 2 bucket method)

3) Dress
- Dry wheels.
- Spray down with a chem of your preference. I prefer Meguiar's Hyper Dressing Mixed 1 to 1 (insane shine, last for a good week if not more).

-Engine-

1) Know your car!!
- Not all engines can just be sprayed with water. (See Optispark LT1 350's)
- A slightly warm motor is ok!!
- Spray down with degreaser of choice, allow for dwelling, and scrub w/ various brushes. Rinse, repeat.
- Dress with something that will make the black shine.
- Wipe down on fender edges and front radiator support.

-Interior-

1) Jamb the car with a good All Purp cleaner and a clean towel. Especially the tracks in the trunk, Also all door edges that are on the inside.
- Also will include wiping down gaskets and if needed wipe down with silicone as it helps keep the gaskets moist.

2) Inspect
- Look for stains, burn holes, dust and other trouble spots.
- Decide if you want to pull the seats (Purely optional)

3) Process
- Dry vacuumed with various brushes to agitate the carpet/floor mats. Vac cracks of seats as well.
- Small brushes for vents an other hard to reach places.
- Wash/wipe down of all hard plastic surfaces, consol, controls.
- Wash inside of windows (see car wash soap), wipe, then final wipe with a good cleaner.
- Protecting the seats (i.e. leather cleaner) and hard plastics. Avoid this stuff on dash mat, will lead to nasty glare.
- If you decide to shampoo the carpets/seats; a good cleaner and a strong wet/dry vac with towels to dry. A good APC for trouble stains is recommended.
- To clean oders in the HVAC tracks I like BG product's Frigi Fresh, they sell a oder remover as well, you can google it.

** Let me stress, this is not perfect, some parts definitly glossed over, any other tips, please post in a positive fashion.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

So going fwd, not starting a Flame war, just passing along what has been mentioned so definitly use other resources, there is tons of stuff out there. Your going to make up a regiment that works for you and your timeframe.

Mtownls1

good tip blackscreamingmachine, i try reading as much and watch as many vids as i can to learn and get new ways of doing things properly. i seen a few vids where ppl get adams roughest pad with most intense polish and completely push down with the pc and it seems to no damage at all becuase it just vibrates and stops spinning. i know creases and corners are the main thing to watch for. are ppl using different size backers for inside smaller areas such as fogs?under spoilers?