What's the strongest rattle can clear coat?
#1
What's the strongest rattle can clear coat?
I am in the process of painting up my interior with some gloss black high performance enamel. I don't want to risk it scratching up from normal driving, usage, etc and would like to put on several coats of a strong, glossy clear coat. Who makes the strongest, glossiest clear coat??
Parbreak if ya read this your opinions appreciated
Parbreak if ya read this your opinions appreciated
#2
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i went to a local autopaint shop, they gave me some good stuff in a can, dont know the name. so id try that route
i have used duplicolor clear, it was alright but not as good as the other
i have used duplicolor clear, it was alright but not as good as the other
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I was talking with my local paint rep about painting a boat and ended up talking to the rep for house of kolor/valspar who was telling me about a clear that is a 2 part system like all automotive clears but once dry it can not be buffed out. He said that it will harden up so much that it is extremely difficult to put any kind of scratch in it. Hence why you cant wetsand and buff it out. I didnt get all the details but I know if I decide to paint interior pieces I will get some more info on this product.
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#8
Originally Posted by stryker14
I was talking with my local paint rep about painting a boat and ended up talking to the rep for house of kolor/valspar who was telling me about a clear that is a 2 part system like all automotive clears but once dry it can not be buffed out. He said that it will harden up so much that it is extremely difficult to put any kind of scratch in it. Hence why you cant wetsand and buff it out. I didnt get all the details but I know if I decide to paint interior pieces I will get some more info on this product.
http://www.innate.com/Paint/nanocoating.htm
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yeah I remember seeing that a while back. looks like a good product that is somewhat scratch resistant but still allows you to wetsand and buff out. I am curious if the clear that I mentioned allows or comes with a flex agent. The main thing I am interested in is the toughness of the product that will keep scratches down. If it really cant be wetsanded like the rep said then it sounds like it will do what im looking for. Only downside would be applying the clear and making sure that it lays down smooth otherwise your SOL
#10
Well I have my entire center console out and am in the process of priming it with Duplicolor high build primer. I am thinking about biting the bullet on this piece and seeing if a body shop will let me buy some high gloss black and clear in spray cans. I have a paint gun as well-should I just try and buy a very small amount?
So far, the only problems I have had with the high performance enamel is the appearance of scratches through the paint. I primed the original plastic pieces with about a can of high build primer then sanded it down with 150, 220, 400 and 800 grit. I had the primer sanded to almost a gloss finish. I sprayed on several coats of the enamel and after a day or 2 of drying it looked great. High quality, deep black, glossy automotive finish. However, I could see teeny tiny scratches all over the piece. You cannot wetsand enamel-if you haven't tried it it pretty much turns the black into a dull grey. Anyways, they were just the back speaker panels in the rear hatch so several little scratches are fine. However, I want the ones seen normally to be perfect.
So, here are my questions:
Were the scratches I saw with the rear panels a result from not sanding the primer further down with 1000 grit and up? Or is it a result of not being able to wetsand the final painted product?
If it is just a result of not sanding down further, would you reccommend I use the enamel paint I already have, or drop the $50 or so on black paint, plus whatever the hardener is, and probably another $50 on clear with additional hardener for that?
Thanks for the tips
So far, the only problems I have had with the high performance enamel is the appearance of scratches through the paint. I primed the original plastic pieces with about a can of high build primer then sanded it down with 150, 220, 400 and 800 grit. I had the primer sanded to almost a gloss finish. I sprayed on several coats of the enamel and after a day or 2 of drying it looked great. High quality, deep black, glossy automotive finish. However, I could see teeny tiny scratches all over the piece. You cannot wetsand enamel-if you haven't tried it it pretty much turns the black into a dull grey. Anyways, they were just the back speaker panels in the rear hatch so several little scratches are fine. However, I want the ones seen normally to be perfect.
So, here are my questions:
Were the scratches I saw with the rear panels a result from not sanding the primer further down with 1000 grit and up? Or is it a result of not being able to wetsand the final painted product?
If it is just a result of not sanding down further, would you reccommend I use the enamel paint I already have, or drop the $50 or so on black paint, plus whatever the hardener is, and probably another $50 on clear with additional hardener for that?
Thanks for the tips
#11
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If it's just black you're after, you can get some black urethane enamel from the body shop supply store and shoot that on with your spray gun. It mixes at a 8:2:1 ratio with reducer and hardener. Since it has hardener it will be more resistant to scratching than the spray paint will, and won't need a clear.
#13
Well I said screw it and broke down and got Dupont automotive grade high gloss black-I can't remember the exact paint code. It was about $40 for a quart of the paint and hardener. I'll be redoing my rear speaker panels, back seat speaker panels, a-pillars, floor sill pieces and center console. Hopefully a quart will do, if not, I guess I'm out another $40.
I am also going to go back and get GM Sebring Silver for my dash trim pieces, center console top, and several other pieces. Does anyone happen to know the Dupont paint code for 1998 GM Sebring Silver?
When finished with the pieces, wetsanding will most likely be necessary. What grit should I use? I already have 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit. Should I start lower or will 1000 be a good starting point? How much time should I spend on each piece when wetsanding? Since the paint has a hardener, a clearcoat will NOT be necessary, correct? Should I still invest the extra cash and get one, or will I just be wasting my money? Thanks
I am also going to go back and get GM Sebring Silver for my dash trim pieces, center console top, and several other pieces. Does anyone happen to know the Dupont paint code for 1998 GM Sebring Silver?
When finished with the pieces, wetsanding will most likely be necessary. What grit should I use? I already have 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit. Should I start lower or will 1000 be a good starting point? How much time should I spend on each piece when wetsanding? Since the paint has a hardener, a clearcoat will NOT be necessary, correct? Should I still invest the extra cash and get one, or will I just be wasting my money? Thanks