DropTopBird

iTrader: (17)

Ok, so heres the setup. I have 3 gauges from my pillar wired up to a 4 way distribution block (like you would use for a stero) and I have that wired into the ignition space in the fuse box for a keyed 12v source. Im going to need more spaces than that in the future, so I was looking at an auxillary fuse panel. I wanted the power to be keyed like it is now, and its either going to be a 10 or 12 circut panel. I was wondering if I can run the hot wire through the same ignition space on the stock box, or if I should just run a new wire from the battery to the panel. If its the latter, how would I wire that up so that it would only come on as a keyed source so it comes on like they are now instead of a constant hot? Thanks a lot for the help.

6LITEREATER

iTrader: (56)

You'd be better off posting this in the electronics section as opposed to the appearance section...

Brian2006

iTrader: (42)

It depends all of what you want to be powered on the auxiliary fuse panel. The gauges draw hardly any current but if you're wanting other high current items such as a bottle heater, you may want to run it directly to your battery.

I'd say you're fine though just running 14ga wire to your new fuse panel.

blackbyrd

iTrader: (14)

fuse panel would be ok but if your need a little more juice try tapping into the keyed ignition wire coming from under the steering column as im pretty sure that is what goes out and turns the relays on under the hood, if you look under the steering column there are three wires that are rather large pink red and yellow, and you may want to double check but im pretty sure the pink wire is switched ignition.

DropTopBird

iTrader: (17)

Thanks for the quick responses. 6liter, I did try it in that section. After a week though still 0 responses, so I thought Id try it here.

Brian- It should be mostly low current things. As of now its just the 3 gauges, and future plans include a line lock, nitrous activation, window switch, etc. Since I am planing to finaly get my nitrous system in, a bottle is definitely in the future. With that being the only serious electronics being run off of it do you still think it would be to much?

Brian2006

iTrader: (42)

You'll be fine. In fact, I don't think you even need an extra fuse panel.

You do know there are additional keyed ignition sources on the factory fuse panel correct? I have A bottle heater, Nitrous activation, Fan switch, Purge, window switch and my gauges running off the stock fuse panel. Bottle heater will draw the most power so that will need to come from its own source on the fuse panel (14ga wire as well). I wired my purge and fan switch to constant power on the fuse panel as well. Everything has it's own fuse. I can't remember but since my fuse panel was tapped into the PCM for readings, it is powered by that same wire so that's not to the fuse box. You'll be fine

chevroletfreak

iTrader: (6)

You could always just run a Painless Wiring 70207. That is what I am planning to do. It will give you 3 constant and 4 ignition fuses. This is more than enough than what you are looking for. This just requires 1 constant power wire and then a single switched source running to it. Then you just run the 7 circuits to whaqtever you want. I prefer this method as you have minimal intrusion into your stock wiring.

DropTopBird

iTrader: (17)

Brian- I do know that threre are additional keyed sources. The reason I wanted to use a seperate fuse panel is because it seemes easier to me to have that one panel run to everything (except the bottle heater). If I ever want to remove it I can just unplug the aux panel and its all good.

Chevroletfreak- I was looking at that, but most places charge $100+ for one of those. Im looking at a bussmann fuse panel with prob 10 circuts that only costs ~$20.

chevroletfreak

iTrader: (6)

I just bought mine from Summit for $70.

DropTopBird

iTrader: (17)

$20 is less than $70 though. Thats $50 more for fun mods