canyon carving an auto
#1
canyon carving an auto
How do you do it?
When I went this weekend to canyon lake, it was very hilly and full of 10-15-20 mph turns.
My solution was to leave it in 3rd gear which locks up at 28 mph and just ease the throttle so it would stay locked up as much as possible to lessen the heat created by my 4000 stall.
I ended up not getting the tranny over 180* so i was happy about that.
I can't imagine how hard it was on the converter because it unlocks and locks so much through out the whole thing. Once again my fuddle didn't let me down.
Just trying to start some discussion
When I went this weekend to canyon lake, it was very hilly and full of 10-15-20 mph turns.
My solution was to leave it in 3rd gear which locks up at 28 mph and just ease the throttle so it would stay locked up as much as possible to lessen the heat created by my 4000 stall.
I ended up not getting the tranny over 180* so i was happy about that.
I can't imagine how hard it was on the converter because it unlocks and locks so much through out the whole thing. Once again my fuddle didn't let me down.
Just trying to start some discussion
#3
Check the Road Race section here, many have road raced, autocrossed, and canyon carve with autos. You are not the first and only.
Note my sig, that is my A4 SS autocrossing, and I used to do canyon carving alot.
Note my sig, that is my A4 SS autocrossing, and I used to do canyon carving alot.
#4
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i had this discussion with a friend of mine who has raced road courses in the past. However the a4 is not ideal i feel that untill i do a m6 swap i would leave my car in 2nd instead of 3rd(bone stock--2.73) but i think your on the right track for paying attention to the temp. Did it feel unnatural with that TC while you were driving?
#6
it was hard to determine what % throttle to give it to keep it from unlocking (this was awkward). Granted the turns i was taking were somewhere in the 20-45 range. In the lower mph (25-33) i had a hard time with the car shifting to 2nd and slipping like a son of a bitch.
I thought it over a bit after and came up with 4 things (1 & 4 are musts)
1) if i put some gear, like 3.73s it would keep me in a higher rpm for canyon carving
2) I could ask my tuner (if possible) to program the car so that:
a. While i brake the car would not unlock the converter
b. keep the converter locked in 3rd until like 80-90% of throttle
c. Make it unlock only above those percentages or when the mph falls below 20 mph.
3) I don't know if you can, but make a manual lock up switch for the converter.
4) Get a tranny cooler that has a fan that spins like a mother.
Thoughts?
I thought it over a bit after and came up with 4 things (1 & 4 are musts)
1) if i put some gear, like 3.73s it would keep me in a higher rpm for canyon carving
2) I could ask my tuner (if possible) to program the car so that:
a. While i brake the car would not unlock the converter
b. keep the converter locked in 3rd until like 80-90% of throttle
c. Make it unlock only above those percentages or when the mph falls below 20 mph.
3) I don't know if you can, but make a manual lock up switch for the converter.
4) Get a tranny cooler that has a fan that spins like a mother.
Thoughts?
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#8
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Nothing wrong with a decent stall, the key is to have
shiftpoints that are pedal-proportional and no surprises
(unlike the stock setup, where you get no kickdown
for any pedal below ~90% and then, bam!, break it
loose). You can get it to shift predictably and with
no big jerk in rear wheel torque.
Personally I'd rather just know that it's going to do
the right thing, than have to boss it around in-the-
moment.
shiftpoints that are pedal-proportional and no surprises
(unlike the stock setup, where you get no kickdown
for any pedal below ~90% and then, bam!, break it
loose). You can get it to shift predictably and with
no big jerk in rear wheel torque.
Personally I'd rather just know that it's going to do
the right thing, than have to boss it around in-the-
moment.