TransGo HD2 Kit Impressions
01-01-2009, 11:15 PM
#1
Tech Resident
Thread Starter
TransGo HD2 Kit Impressions I'd like to write this thread because I, along with many others I'm sure, have been the type of person who is very apprehensive about doing a shift kit. It's a very complicated install with many intricate parts and if it's not done right, I'm sure it could result in massive transmission failure. I've done many searches on this reprogramming kit over the years and sadly, even in the mighty archives of LS1tech, there isn't much said about this kit. Since there's so little information about it, I'm sure that leads to people not considering it as a mod which only further perpetuates the void of information. Well, I'll take the plunge and write an in-depth review of the TransGo HD2 reprogramming kit.
My 4L60E is completely stock down to the converter at the time I am writing this.
One of my Christmas presents this year was a shift kit. The kit I chose was the TransGo HD2-C kit. This kit is the "standard shift kit" if you will, not the one that gives you full manual control. Along with the shift kit, I also purchased the aluminum accumulator pistons for good measure to replace the stock plastic pieces. I feel there are a lot of misconceptions about what a shift kit really does and what it "feels like" afterward. I, for one, was very surprised with the result of this kit. Even my mechanic, who has done dozens of shift kits on 700R4's in the past, was surprised at the result of this kit.
Now, what does the shift kit do? Well, my understanding is the shift kit is a series of springs and valves that modify the spring and valve system inside the valvebody. These springs and valves mechanically regulate line pressure. The beauty of the HD2 kit is the line pressure control is progressive - light line pressure at light throttle, medium line pressure at medium throttle and max line pressure under maximum throttle. This allows for gentle, delicate shifts at light throttle and faster shifts to preserve the clutches and bands as more power gets put through the transmission. This should extend the life of the clutches and bands in the transmission, at least in theory.
First off, this kit was a pain in the *** to install. It took roughly 5 hours from putting the car on the lift, draining the fluid, removing the valvebody, refilling all the fluids and taking her off the lift. My mechanic also installed a drain plug into my pan, so factor in a little extra time for that.
THIS KIT IS NOT FOR A NOVICE! If you are not an EXPERT, don't even bother to attempt this install. That is the single best advice I can give you. First off, something I was unaware of: you have to pull the transmission to do the entire kit. I wasn't expecting that. Sure, you could go ahead and install the part of the kit that takes care of the valvebody and skip the part that requires the transmission to be pulled, but then why get the kit? The kit is designed to mate with each other, so if you're mixing and matching parts, my personal opinion is that could lead to problems down the road. IMO, do the whole kit or don't do it at all!
Earlier, I alluded to my mechanic doing many shift kits in the past on 700R4's. Well, that's the standard TransGo kit and the B&M kit I'm talking about. I bought the updated HD2 kit, which is a much rarer install. He did a perfect job. Everything shifts great. The shift points are perfect. No bouncing off the rev limiter on the dreaded 2-3 shift, which seems to have been a common problem on the older kits. The shifts are a lot faster and crisper, at least on the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts. On the 3-4 shift, the HD2 kit actually makes you install a spring in the accumulator. Stock, there is no spring. This actually softens the shift, and honestly, the 3-4 shift is just as unnoticeable as before. One thing that surprised me is that lockup seems a tad firmer. Before, lockup was smooth. Now, it almost feels like the transmission shifts. It's very light, but crisp. Don't get me wrong, it's not nearly as firm as the 1-2 or 2-3 shift, but it's actually noticeable now. I kinda like it. That caught me off guard.
Now, what surprised me and my mechanic so much about this shift kit?
Well, damn it, it hardly made the shifts ANY firmer than stock. I was expecting a strong increase in shift pressure. It's SLIGHTLY firmer than it was before. This disappointed me. The 1-2 shift is noticeably firmer at medium throttle, but hardly anything to write home about. The 2-3 shift is barely firmer than it was stock, though it is a lot crisper and faster. The 3-4 shift, as I said before, is virtually unchanged, maybe even a little softer.
What surprised my mechanic so much is how light the shifts were. The B&M's he set up in the past were a hell of a lot harder, and I guess the older TransGo's were as well, though the B&M's are much harder he said. Now, don't get me wrong, there is DEFINITELY a difference. The transmission is a lot more consistent now. Before, the shift feel would be all over the place. One day, it would shift really firm and the next it would be soft. I think temperatures had a lot to do with that variance, but now, the shifts are a lot less slushy. They just aren't tire-barking firm like I had hoped for.
My final thoughts on the product:
It's an intense, lengthy install that requires the entire transmission to be removed for a moderately noticeable change in shift firmness. It is apparent to me that this kit was designed for longevity on stock transmissions, not for tire-barking shifts that wake you up. That's fine by me as I want my stock 4L60E to last as long as possible, and the conservative shifts will make the car much safer in bad weather, so there are many upsides to the kit. If you want a modest improvement in shift firmness and significant improvements in shift speed and crispness while increasing your transmission's service life, this kit is a great upgrade for you. However, if you're looking for neck-snapping shifts, this kit isn't for you. The B&M kit would probably be more to your liking, though I strongly doubt the B&M kit will provide the service life increase the TransGo kit will.
In case you're all wondering, I paid $220 all said and done for the install of the shift kit, 8 quarts of fluid, a new filter and a drain plug installed in the pan so I can do my own fluid swaps now. I hope you find this review informative. And again, THIS KIT IS DIFFERENT FROM THE TRANSGO SHIFT KITS THE SPONSORS SELL! I had to do a little digging to get the TransGo HD2-C kit. I wish some sponsors would start selling it openly on their websites *hint hint*
My 4L60E is completely stock down to the converter at the time I am writing this.
One of my Christmas presents this year was a shift kit. The kit I chose was the TransGo HD2-C kit. This kit is the "standard shift kit" if you will, not the one that gives you full manual control. Along with the shift kit, I also purchased the aluminum accumulator pistons for good measure to replace the stock plastic pieces. I feel there are a lot of misconceptions about what a shift kit really does and what it "feels like" afterward. I, for one, was very surprised with the result of this kit. Even my mechanic, who has done dozens of shift kits on 700R4's in the past, was surprised at the result of this kit.
Now, what does the shift kit do? Well, my understanding is the shift kit is a series of springs and valves that modify the spring and valve system inside the valvebody. These springs and valves mechanically regulate line pressure. The beauty of the HD2 kit is the line pressure control is progressive - light line pressure at light throttle, medium line pressure at medium throttle and max line pressure under maximum throttle. This allows for gentle, delicate shifts at light throttle and faster shifts to preserve the clutches and bands as more power gets put through the transmission. This should extend the life of the clutches and bands in the transmission, at least in theory.
First off, this kit was a pain in the *** to install. It took roughly 5 hours from putting the car on the lift, draining the fluid, removing the valvebody, refilling all the fluids and taking her off the lift. My mechanic also installed a drain plug into my pan, so factor in a little extra time for that.
THIS KIT IS NOT FOR A NOVICE! If you are not an EXPERT, don't even bother to attempt this install. That is the single best advice I can give you. First off, something I was unaware of: you have to pull the transmission to do the entire kit. I wasn't expecting that. Sure, you could go ahead and install the part of the kit that takes care of the valvebody and skip the part that requires the transmission to be pulled, but then why get the kit? The kit is designed to mate with each other, so if you're mixing and matching parts, my personal opinion is that could lead to problems down the road. IMO, do the whole kit or don't do it at all!
Earlier, I alluded to my mechanic doing many shift kits in the past on 700R4's. Well, that's the standard TransGo kit and the B&M kit I'm talking about. I bought the updated HD2 kit, which is a much rarer install. He did a perfect job. Everything shifts great. The shift points are perfect. No bouncing off the rev limiter on the dreaded 2-3 shift, which seems to have been a common problem on the older kits. The shifts are a lot faster and crisper, at least on the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts. On the 3-4 shift, the HD2 kit actually makes you install a spring in the accumulator. Stock, there is no spring. This actually softens the shift, and honestly, the 3-4 shift is just as unnoticeable as before. One thing that surprised me is that lockup seems a tad firmer. Before, lockup was smooth. Now, it almost feels like the transmission shifts. It's very light, but crisp. Don't get me wrong, it's not nearly as firm as the 1-2 or 2-3 shift, but it's actually noticeable now. I kinda like it. That caught me off guard.
Now, what surprised me and my mechanic so much about this shift kit?
Well, damn it, it hardly made the shifts ANY firmer than stock. I was expecting a strong increase in shift pressure. It's SLIGHTLY firmer than it was before. This disappointed me. The 1-2 shift is noticeably firmer at medium throttle, but hardly anything to write home about. The 2-3 shift is barely firmer than it was stock, though it is a lot crisper and faster. The 3-4 shift, as I said before, is virtually unchanged, maybe even a little softer.
What surprised my mechanic so much is how light the shifts were. The B&M's he set up in the past were a hell of a lot harder, and I guess the older TransGo's were as well, though the B&M's are much harder he said. Now, don't get me wrong, there is DEFINITELY a difference. The transmission is a lot more consistent now. Before, the shift feel would be all over the place. One day, it would shift really firm and the next it would be soft. I think temperatures had a lot to do with that variance, but now, the shifts are a lot less slushy. They just aren't tire-barking firm like I had hoped for.
My final thoughts on the product:
It's an intense, lengthy install that requires the entire transmission to be removed for a moderately noticeable change in shift firmness. It is apparent to me that this kit was designed for longevity on stock transmissions, not for tire-barking shifts that wake you up. That's fine by me as I want my stock 4L60E to last as long as possible, and the conservative shifts will make the car much safer in bad weather, so there are many upsides to the kit. If you want a modest improvement in shift firmness and significant improvements in shift speed and crispness while increasing your transmission's service life, this kit is a great upgrade for you. However, if you're looking for neck-snapping shifts, this kit isn't for you. The B&M kit would probably be more to your liking, though I strongly doubt the B&M kit will provide the service life increase the TransGo kit will.
In case you're all wondering, I paid $220 all said and done for the install of the shift kit, 8 quarts of fluid, a new filter and a drain plug installed in the pan so I can do my own fluid swaps now. I hope you find this review informative. And again, THIS KIT IS DIFFERENT FROM THE TRANSGO SHIFT KITS THE SPONSORS SELL! I had to do a little digging to get the TransGo HD2-C kit. I wish some sponsors would start selling it openly on their websites *hint hint*
Last edited by ChocoTaco369; 01-01-2009 at 11:20 PM.
01-01-2009, 11:35 PM
#2
Actually you may have noted in the instructions you can use different hole sizes and spacers in the accum and get much firmer shifts, The kits actually quite programmable .
More than likely since i think I read some where you have a stock converter the MIN settings were used and that will yield a slightly better tan stock feel something like you are describing,
The TCC apply change is due to the virtual elimination of the PWM system that is factory before your converter was pulsed "slipped" on and off now its pretty much ON/OFF
But sounds like he did right on the set up since with a stock trans you don't wanna get carried away with the shift firmness. Particularly in second since the stock sun shell is easily striped
More than likely since i think I read some where you have a stock converter the MIN settings were used and that will yield a slightly better tan stock feel something like you are describing,
The TCC apply change is due to the virtual elimination of the PWM system that is factory before your converter was pulsed "slipped" on and off now its pretty much ON/OFF
But sounds like he did right on the set up since with a stock trans you don't wanna get carried away with the shift firmness. Particularly in second since the stock sun shell is easily striped
__________________
01-02-2009, 01:15 AM
#4
Good write-up but a few questions and observations:
What is the difference between the regular HD-2 and the HD-2C? I think most of the sponsors use the 2C. I got my 2C from a non-sponsor that used to be on this forum a lot. My box says 2C "With PWM Upgrade."
Did your builder use any spacers in the 1-2 accumulator? You can get as much firmness as you want on that shift that way. Also, as mentioned above, the holes in the spacer plate can be opened up more. I agree that 3-4 felt softer after the install, but thought that was due to the 10" converter that went in at the same time. There is a billet 3-4 accumulator available that will firm up the band apply on that shift.
Did you install a vacuum modulator with your kit? That, not the shift kit, is going to give you the progressive line pressure as opposed to the computer controlled solenoids.
The revised TCC valve eliminating PWM makes for firm lock-up and prolongs clutch life - especially important for aftermarket converters. I'm convinced this is why my TCI 3000 held up perfectly during three years of DD and track use.
I agree that it should be installed by someone familiar with these kits and the tranny must be pulled to do it right - installing the stiffer pump spring to improve high-rpm oiling.
Transmission shift time and shift points are controlled by the computer, so some tuning really completes the package. The end result is transmission performance that is really satisfying.
Again, good write-up. But too bad you didn't get a hi-stall converter in there while the tranny was out.
What is the difference between the regular HD-2 and the HD-2C? I think most of the sponsors use the 2C. I got my 2C from a non-sponsor that used to be on this forum a lot. My box says 2C "With PWM Upgrade."
Did your builder use any spacers in the 1-2 accumulator? You can get as much firmness as you want on that shift that way. Also, as mentioned above, the holes in the spacer plate can be opened up more. I agree that 3-4 felt softer after the install, but thought that was due to the 10" converter that went in at the same time. There is a billet 3-4 accumulator available that will firm up the band apply on that shift.
Did you install a vacuum modulator with your kit? That, not the shift kit, is going to give you the progressive line pressure as opposed to the computer controlled solenoids.
The revised TCC valve eliminating PWM makes for firm lock-up and prolongs clutch life - especially important for aftermarket converters. I'm convinced this is why my TCI 3000 held up perfectly during three years of DD and track use.
I agree that it should be installed by someone familiar with these kits and the tranny must be pulled to do it right - installing the stiffer pump spring to improve high-rpm oiling.
Transmission shift time and shift points are controlled by the computer, so some tuning really completes the package. The end result is transmission performance that is really satisfying.
Again, good write-up. But too bad you didn't get a hi-stall converter in there while the tranny was out.
01-02-2009, 06:56 AM
#5
TECH Apprentice
"THIS KIT IS NOT FOR A NOVICE! If you are not an EXPERT, don't even bother to attempt this install. That is the single best advice I can give you. First off, something I was unaware of: you have to pull the transmission to do the entire kit. I wasn't expecting that. Sure, you could go ahead and install the part of the kit that takes care of the valvebody and skip the part that requires the transmission to be pulled, but then why get the kit? The kit is designed to mate with each other, so if you're mixing and matching parts, my personal opinion is that could lead to problems down the road. IMO, do the whole kit or don't do it at all!"
I did not have to pull my trany guys. The pump cover comes of if you use a pry bar and make some room for it to pop out.
I ******* love this mod. It is one hell of a mod that gives you bang for your buck.
As for skill level. Its between Knowing the basics and an expert.
Also I can not stress enough do exactly what the damn directions say.
I did not have to pull my trany guys. The pump cover comes of if you use a pry bar and make some room for it to pop out.
I ******* love this mod. It is one hell of a mod that gives you bang for your buck.
As for skill level. Its between Knowing the basics and an expert.
Also I can not stress enough do exactly what the damn directions say.
01-02-2009, 07:06 AM
#6
TECH Apprentice
OK I think there is some funny business going on..... The Kit I installed about 4 months ago is the one in the link below. Transgo 4L60E Shift Kit Performance
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Trans...Q5fAccessories
I am not seeing this kit available from transgo or Summit or it has been modified and has had the video and directions removed. If so, WTF.
Can this be validated?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Trans...Q5fAccessories
I am not seeing this kit available from transgo or Summit or it has been modified and has had the video and directions removed. If so, WTF.
Can this be validated?
01-02-2009, 08:59 AM
#7
some versions of the kit do not have the video and some versions are called "modified transgo" which is fine some builders like some parts of the transgo but from experience have found they like to do some parts a different way, I am like that when it comes to shift kits, But in any case if your a novice you should follow the instructions for whatever shift kit you have to the letter
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01-02-2009, 09:31 AM
#8
Mine was in a blue box, no video, and seemingly had more in it than yours. Did yours contain the TCC valve?
01-02-2009, 09:49 AM
#9
TECH Apprentice
I went to Pro Built Automatics website and he has about 12 different kits available for the 4L60e. Some of the differences are LS1/LT1/truck, others include Corvette servo or the accummulator pistons or not. But beyond those differences, it's clear that there are several varieties.
Mine was in a blue box, no video, and seemingly had more in it than yours. Did yours contain the TCC valve?
Mine was in a blue box, no video, and seemingly had more in it than yours. Did yours contain the TCC valve?
Yes I do believe so. Though its not a blue box. I just wonder if Transgo killed that kit for the 4L60E... Hit the ebay link and you can see exactly what the kit looked like.
01-02-2009, 10:13 AM
#10
Tech Resident
Thread Starter
Again, don't quote me on that info, but I think that's what it is.
01-02-2009, 10:18 AM
#11
Tech Resident
Thread Starter
Did your builder use any spacers in the 1-2 accumulator? You can get as much firmness as you want on that shift that way. Also, as mentioned above, the holes in the spacer plate can be opened up more. I agree that 3-4 felt softer after the install, but thought that was due to the 10" converter that went in at the same time. There is a billet 3-4 accumulator available that will firm up the band apply on that shift.
01-02-2009, 10:21 AM
#12
Tech Resident
Thread Starter
Actually you may have noted in the instructions you can use different hole sizes and spacers in the accum and get much firmer shifts, The kits actually quite programmable .
More than likely since i think I read some where you have a stock converter the MIN settings were used and that will yield a slightly better tan stock feel something like you are describing,
The TCC apply change is due to the virtual elimination of the PWM system that is factory before your converter was pulsed "slipped" on and off now its pretty much ON/OFF
But sounds like he did right on the set up since with a stock trans you don't wanna get carried away with the shift firmness. Particularly in second since the stock sun shell is easily striped
More than likely since i think I read some where you have a stock converter the MIN settings were used and that will yield a slightly better tan stock feel something like you are describing,
The TCC apply change is due to the virtual elimination of the PWM system that is factory before your converter was pulsed "slipped" on and off now its pretty much ON/OFF
But sounds like he did right on the set up since with a stock trans you don't wanna get carried away with the shift firmness. Particularly in second since the stock sun shell is easily striped
01-02-2009, 10:26 AM
#14
Tech Resident
Thread Starter
http://www.speedinc.com/cont.cfm?cid=C0000128
I believe that's the original shift kit designed for the 700R4, so it can be used with the 4L60E as well. However, the sponsors on this site have all recommended the updated TransGo HD2 kit, which has been specifically revised and upgraded for our newer 4L60E's with fully electronic controls. At least that is my understanding. The kit RevGTO and myself bought is a more complete and better kit since it's designed for our electronic controls. I assume that's why it takes care of the PWM, which I assume wasn't used in the mechanical 700R4's of old. The one you pointed out will work, but it's the original kit, hence the 4L60E-A.
Last edited by ChocoTaco369; 01-02-2009 at 10:32 AM.
01-02-2009, 10:37 AM
#15
I also have one spacer and I reduced the shift times by half from what I believe was the stock 0.5. The result is a firm and crisp 1-2 shift. You could try another spacer to firm it up - it won't hurt anything. (If you got your kit from Pro Built, he is ADAMANT about no more than one spacer. But other guys run two and even three all the time without adverse effects. I'm happy with mine at one).
The old rule is "no bump in line pressure with a shift kit installed," so you're good there. Actually, on mine, I compared the stock line pressure settings from the 2000 and 2002 factory tunes, and selected and programmed in the most agressive settings.
The old rule is "no bump in line pressure with a shift kit installed," so you're good there. Actually, on mine, I compared the stock line pressure settings from the 2000 and 2002 factory tunes, and selected and programmed in the most agressive settings.
01-02-2009, 11:44 AM
#16
TECH Apprentice
I also have one spacer and I reduced the shift times by half from what I believe was the stock 0.5. The result is a firm and crisp 1-2 shift. You could try another spacer to firm it up - it won't hurt anything. (If you got your kit from Pro Built, he is ADAMANT about no more than one spacer. But other guys run two and even three all the time without adverse effects. I'm happy with mine at one).
The old rule is "no bump in line pressure with a shift kit installed," so you're good there. Actually, on mine, I compared the stock line pressure settings from the 2000 and 2002 factory tunes, and selected and programmed in the most agressive settings.
The old rule is "no bump in line pressure with a shift kit installed," so you're good there. Actually, on mine, I compared the stock line pressure settings from the 2000 and 2002 factory tunes, and selected and programmed in the most agressive settings.
When I installed me kit I went ***** to the wall on the spacers and used all of them. The 1-2 shift on concrete will jurk my neck back at a low speed. WOT will chirp the **** out the the street tires. Not so much on asphalt, go figure.
Though my 3-4 shift is ok. Though the directions did have a note saying that the whole to be drilled should only be used for race from what I remember.
01-02-2009, 11:53 AM
#17
What surprised my mechanic so much is how light the shifts were. The B&M's he set up in the past were a hell of a lot harder, and I guess the older TransGo's were as well, though the B&M's are much harder he said. Now, don't get me wrong, there is DEFINITELY a difference. The transmission is a lot more consistent now. Before, the shift feel would be all over the place. One day, it would shift really firm and the next it would be soft. I think temperatures had a lot to do with that variance, but now, the shifts are a lot less slushy. They just aren't tire-barking firm like I had hoped for.
My final thoughts on the product:
It's an intense, lengthy install that requires the entire transmission to be removed for a moderately noticeable change in shift firmness.
My final thoughts on the product:
It's an intense, lengthy install that requires the entire transmission to be removed for a moderately noticeable change in shift firmness.
Expecting a shift kit making your trans perform like it was built from the ground up is like you expecting to have the heath of an athelete just because you "installed" the same shoes he has.
I've had no formal training in transmission work and I've build a lot of GM transmissions from the ground up with success.
The key to installing the HD2 kit is that you need everything to work together, such as: the new sep plate hole sizes, clutch clearances, tuning, removing TM, etc, etc, etc.
I took my trans out several times to get the shifts soft at part throttle and neck breaking at WOT. Did your mechanic do this?
Search the forum about 2-3 shift problems and 3-4 clutch failure, there are a lot.
Search how many people install this kit with the trans in the car thinking it's not necessary to install the WHOLE kit and install the parts that go inside.
Dumb idea because taking the trans out, apart to install the WHOLE kit gives you the perfect chance to upgrade the 3-4 clutch and other weak areas.
The kit doesn't come with a pump spring.
ETC, ETC, ETC, ETC. I have to cut this short.
Edit: continuing.
Bottom line is this: If it doesn't shift the way you want it to take it apart and install some upgraded parts besides what already comes with the kit (ex: beast sunshell, 3-4 clutches, hi rev pump kit= $150 in parts) this way you don't have to worry about breaking when you do the next step, which is tighten 3-4 clearance, adjust the servo, change the feed hole sizes in the plate. AND GET RID OF TORQUE MANAGEMENT if you haven't already.
Edit again: On the B&M kits shifting harder LOL. Yea. Drill all the feed holes out as big as the case allows, block all accumulation, put a stiff pressure reg spring in it. And you're worried about breaking parts with a transgo kit?
One more thing. The kits are recommended to be installed by professionals yet some kits (th4001&2) have extra VB gaskets so the professionals can pull the valve body off to adjust as needed. I repeat pull the vb off and ajust as needed.
Last edited by 9000th01ss; 01-02-2009 at 12:13 PM.
01-02-2009, 12:18 PM
#18
Tech Resident
Thread Starter
I also have one spacer and I reduced the shift times by half from what I believe was the stock 0.5. The result is a firm and crisp 1-2 shift. You could try another spacer to firm it up - it won't hurt anything. (If you got your kit from Pro Built, he is ADAMANT about no more than one spacer. But other guys run two and even three all the time without adverse effects. I'm happy with mine at one).
The old rule is "no bump in line pressure with a shift kit installed," so you're good there. Actually, on mine, I compared the stock line pressure settings from the 2000 and 2002 factory tunes, and selected and programmed in the most agressive settings.
The old rule is "no bump in line pressure with a shift kit installed," so you're good there. Actually, on mine, I compared the stock line pressure settings from the 2000 and 2002 factory tunes, and selected and programmed in the most agressive settings.
01-02-2009, 12:23 PM
#19
Tech Resident
Thread Starter
I didn't even read the thread yet, just the OP.
Expecting a shift kit making your trans perform like it was built from the ground up is like you expecting to have the heath of an athelete just because you "installed" the same shoes he has.
I've had no formal training in transmission work and I've build a lot of GM transmissions from the ground up with success.
The key to installing the HD2 kit is that you need everything to work together, such as: the new sep plate hole sizes, clutch clearances, tuning, removing TM, etc, etc, etc.
I took my trans out several times to get the shifts soft at part throttle and neck breaking at WOT. Did your mechanic do this?
Search the forum about 2-3 shift problems and 3-4 clutch failure, there are a lot.
Search how many people install this kit with the trans in the car thinking it's not necessary to install the WHOLE kit and install the parts that go inside.
Dumb idea because taking the trans out, apart to install the WHOLE kit gives you the perfect chance to upgrade the 3-4 clutch and other weak areas.
The kit doesn't come with a pump spring.
ETC, ETC, ETC, ETC. I have to cut this short.
Edit: continuing.
Bottom line is this: If it doesn't shift the way you want it to take it apart and install some upgraded parts besides what already comes with the kit (ex: beast sunshell, 3-4 clutches, hi rev pump kit= $150 in parts) this way you don't have to worry about breaking when you do the next step, which is tighten 3-4 clearance, adjust the servo, change the feed hole sizes in the plate. AND GET RID OF TORQUE MANAGEMENT if you haven't already.
Edit again: On the B&M kits shifting harder LOL. Yea. Drill all the feed holes out as big as the case allows, block all accumulation, put a stiff pressure reg spring in it. And you're worried about breaking parts with a transgo kit?
One more thing. The kits are recommended to be installed by professionals yet some kits (th4001&2) have extra VB gaskets so the professionals can pull the valve body off to adjust as needed. I repeat pull the vb off and ajust as needed.
Expecting a shift kit making your trans perform like it was built from the ground up is like you expecting to have the heath of an athelete just because you "installed" the same shoes he has.
I've had no formal training in transmission work and I've build a lot of GM transmissions from the ground up with success.
The key to installing the HD2 kit is that you need everything to work together, such as: the new sep plate hole sizes, clutch clearances, tuning, removing TM, etc, etc, etc.
I took my trans out several times to get the shifts soft at part throttle and neck breaking at WOT. Did your mechanic do this?
Search the forum about 2-3 shift problems and 3-4 clutch failure, there are a lot.
Search how many people install this kit with the trans in the car thinking it's not necessary to install the WHOLE kit and install the parts that go inside.
Dumb idea because taking the trans out, apart to install the WHOLE kit gives you the perfect chance to upgrade the 3-4 clutch and other weak areas.
The kit doesn't come with a pump spring.
ETC, ETC, ETC, ETC. I have to cut this short.
Edit: continuing.
Bottom line is this: If it doesn't shift the way you want it to take it apart and install some upgraded parts besides what already comes with the kit (ex: beast sunshell, 3-4 clutches, hi rev pump kit= $150 in parts) this way you don't have to worry about breaking when you do the next step, which is tighten 3-4 clearance, adjust the servo, change the feed hole sizes in the plate. AND GET RID OF TORQUE MANAGEMENT if you haven't already.
Edit again: On the B&M kits shifting harder LOL. Yea. Drill all the feed holes out as big as the case allows, block all accumulation, put a stiff pressure reg spring in it. And you're worried about breaking parts with a transgo kit?
One more thing. The kits are recommended to be installed by professionals yet some kits (th4001&2) have extra VB gaskets so the professionals can pull the valve body off to adjust as needed. I repeat pull the vb off and ajust as needed.
I wasn't expecting this kit to make my transmission feel like a race build. I was just expecting a more significant increase in shift firmness. It really isn't that big of a change and I was just hoping for a little more.
01-02-2009, 03:28 PM
#20
I'm aware that the HD2 kit was not an "aggressive kit." I'm also aware the B&M kit takes a bunch of shortcuts and blocks things off, which I am not interested in. I'm interested in firmer shifts, but not at the expense of transmission life. I'm also aware that it's best to install the full kit as all parts work together. The trans was removed to finish the kit so no parts were left out. I was just expecting a little more firmness out of it. If the shift kit was installed overnight and no one told me, I don't think I'd have even noticed much. It's barely an increase in firmness. Torque Management is removed off the 1-2 shift but is still fully active on the 2-3 and 3-4 shifts. I plan on leaving it this way.
I wasn't expecting this kit to make my transmission feel like a race build. I was just expecting a more significant increase in shift firmness. It really isn't that big of a change and I was just hoping for a little more.
I wasn't expecting this kit to make my transmission feel like a race build. I was just expecting a more significant increase in shift firmness. It really isn't that big of a change and I was just hoping for a little more.