Starting 4L80 Install, Couple Questions
02-18-2010, 09:28 PM
#1
Starting 4L80 Install, Couple Questions I recently picked up a rebuilt '95 4L80 with a manual valvebody. I'm getting it ready to install in my Trans Am and got a couple questions.
I picked up two 1/4" NPT to 6AN straight fittings to install on the transmission to run braided tranny cooler lines up to a B&M cooler. It seems the fittings will only thread about 1 thread into the holes and then suddenly stop and don't wanna go any further. I have NOT put a wrench on them, only tried finger tight. At first I thought the size was wrong, but from what I can tell the fittings threads are NOT tapered - so they should fit right? Where the cooler line holes are located is an actual fitting on the outside of the transmission itself. These stay put right? I didn't want to force them and crack the fittings on the transmission or the case itself.
What filters do you guys recommend for a stockish 4L80? I wanna take the transmission to a local place and have it flushed and the filter changed out on it before installing.
The transmission currently has the stock pan on it - is a deep pan a good idea with these like it is with a 4L60 or is the stock pan sufficient?
I'm sure I'll come up with a few more questions as the install goes along, but I think I have every part I need minus a flexplate, tranny mount, and making the stock driveshaft work. The transmission came with a fixed yoke bolted into the threaded center of the output shaft - so I think I'm going to take it with stock driveshaft to the local Drivetrain Specialists and tell them what I'm doing and let them figure out the specs on yokes and lengths and stuff.
I picked up two 1/4" NPT to 6AN straight fittings to install on the transmission to run braided tranny cooler lines up to a B&M cooler. It seems the fittings will only thread about 1 thread into the holes and then suddenly stop and don't wanna go any further. I have NOT put a wrench on them, only tried finger tight. At first I thought the size was wrong, but from what I can tell the fittings threads are NOT tapered - so they should fit right? Where the cooler line holes are located is an actual fitting on the outside of the transmission itself. These stay put right? I didn't want to force them and crack the fittings on the transmission or the case itself.
What filters do you guys recommend for a stockish 4L80? I wanna take the transmission to a local place and have it flushed and the filter changed out on it before installing.
The transmission currently has the stock pan on it - is a deep pan a good idea with these like it is with a 4L60 or is the stock pan sufficient?
I'm sure I'll come up with a few more questions as the install goes along, but I think I have every part I need minus a flexplate, tranny mount, and making the stock driveshaft work. The transmission came with a fixed yoke bolted into the threaded center of the output shaft - so I think I'm going to take it with stock driveshaft to the local Drivetrain Specialists and tell them what I'm doing and let them figure out the specs on yokes and lengths and stuff.
02-19-2010, 09:23 AM
#2
I recently picked up a rebuilt '95 4L80 with a manual valvebody. I'm getting it ready to install in my Trans Am and got a couple questions.
I picked up two 1/4" NPT to 6AN straight fittings to install on the transmission to run braided tranny cooler lines up to a B&M cooler. It seems the fittings will only thread about 1 thread into the holes and then suddenly stop and don't wanna go any further. I have NOT put a wrench on them, only tried finger tight. At first I thought the size was wrong, but from what I can tell the fittings threads are NOT tapered - so they should fit right? Where the cooler line holes are located is an actual fitting on the outside of the transmission itself. These stay put right? I didn't want to force them and crack the fittings on the transmission or the case itself.
What filters do you guys recommend for a stockish 4L80? I wanna take the transmission to a local place and have it flushed and the filter changed out on it before installing.
The transmission currently has the stock pan on it - is a deep pan a good idea with these like it is with a 4L60 or is the stock pan sufficient?
I'm sure I'll come up with a few more questions as the install goes along, but I think I have every part I need minus a flexplate, tranny mount, and making the stock driveshaft work. The transmission came with a fixed yoke bolted into the threaded center of the output shaft - so I think I'm going to take it with stock driveshaft to the local Drivetrain Specialists and tell them what I'm doing and let them figure out the specs on yokes and lengths and stuff.
I picked up two 1/4" NPT to 6AN straight fittings to install on the transmission to run braided tranny cooler lines up to a B&M cooler. It seems the fittings will only thread about 1 thread into the holes and then suddenly stop and don't wanna go any further. I have NOT put a wrench on them, only tried finger tight. At first I thought the size was wrong, but from what I can tell the fittings threads are NOT tapered - so they should fit right? Where the cooler line holes are located is an actual fitting on the outside of the transmission itself. These stay put right? I didn't want to force them and crack the fittings on the transmission or the case itself.
What filters do you guys recommend for a stockish 4L80? I wanna take the transmission to a local place and have it flushed and the filter changed out on it before installing.
The transmission currently has the stock pan on it - is a deep pan a good idea with these like it is with a 4L60 or is the stock pan sufficient?
I'm sure I'll come up with a few more questions as the install goes along, but I think I have every part I need minus a flexplate, tranny mount, and making the stock driveshaft work. The transmission came with a fixed yoke bolted into the threaded center of the output shaft - so I think I'm going to take it with stock driveshaft to the local Drivetrain Specialists and tell them what I'm doing and let them figure out the specs on yokes and lengths and stuff.
The stock replacement filter should be fine. It is very large and has a good amount of surface area, so the flow should be fine too.
Take the tailshaft off and post a picture of the output shaft. Mine has a threaded center, but I can use a standard th400 slip yoke.
02-19-2010, 12:25 PM
#3
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Be sure to use the factory fitting for the return line, on the later model 4L80E's it protrudes into the case about 1" to lubricate internals. If you use a standard NPT fitting there will be an internal leak, and there won't be lubrication to the center support bushing, etc.
Ask me how I know.
Be sure to ready the sticky thread, it has lots of good info on the swap.
Rob (Bad30th)
Ask me how I know.
Be sure to ready the sticky thread, it has lots of good info on the swap.
Rob (Bad30th)
02-19-2010, 03:48 PM
#4
Yes, the 4L80es use 1/4 npt (but be careful when tightening so you don't crack the case). Also if you need, you can try tapping the hole if it is messed up.
The transmission is a '95 model, so the cooler line locations are toward the front. There appears to be a brass hex head fitting in the case already that looks like it's threaded inside and has a tube in the center of it. Is this where the factory fittings pushed in...so these hex head fittings can be removed and then a 1/4" NPT can be installed here in it's place?
The stock replacement filter should be fine. It is very large and has a good amount of surface area, so the flow should be fine too.
Sounds good
Take the tailshaft off and post a picture of the output shaft. Mine has a threaded center, but I can use a standard th400 slip yoke.
The transmission is a '95 model, so the cooler line locations are toward the front. There appears to be a brass hex head fitting in the case already that looks like it's threaded inside and has a tube in the center of it. Is this where the factory fittings pushed in...so these hex head fittings can be removed and then a 1/4" NPT can be installed here in it's place?
The stock replacement filter should be fine. It is very large and has a good amount of surface area, so the flow should be fine too.
Sounds good
Take the tailshaft off and post a picture of the output shaft. Mine has a threaded center, but I can use a standard th400 slip yoke.
Be sure to use the factory fitting for the return line, on the later model 4L80E's it protrudes into the case about 1" to lubricate internals. If you use a standard NPT fitting there will be an internal leak, and there won't be lubrication to the center support bushing, etc.
Ask me how I know.
I read about that, but this is longer fitting was only used on the '97+ models with the rear transmission line location correct?
Be sure to ready the sticky thread, it has lots of good info on the swap.
Rob (Bad30th)
Ask me how I know.
I read about that, but this is longer fitting was only used on the '97+ models with the rear transmission line location correct?
Be sure to ready the sticky thread, it has lots of good info on the swap.
Rob (Bad30th)
Replies in bold ^
Thanks guys, I'll go thru that sticky again.
02-19-2010, 03:50 PM
#5
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Originally Posted by Photochop
I read about that, but this is longer fitting was only used on the '97+ models with the rear transmission line location correct?
I believe that is correct. Sorry, missed that you specified yours is a '95 model.
Rob (Bad30th)
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02-24-2010, 08:36 AM
#8
Be sure to use the factory fitting for the return line, on the later model 4L80E's it protrudes into the case about 1" to lubricate internals. If you use a standard NPT fitting there will be an internal leak, and there won't be lubrication to the center support bushing, etc.
Ask me how I know.
Be sure to ready the sticky thread, it has lots of good info on the swap.
Rob (Bad30th)
Ask me how I know.
Be sure to ready the sticky thread, it has lots of good info on the swap.
Rob (Bad30th)
02-24-2010, 10:12 AM
#10
would this kit work?
http://www.jegs.com/i/B%26amp%3BM/130/70266K2/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/i/B%26amp%3BM/130/70266K2/10002/-1
02-24-2010, 11:42 AM
#11
I have an earlier 4L80 too and I couldn't get the fittings to thread into the case either, even though they were supposed to be correct. I talk to one of the old guys around here who did a lot of work with T400s and he said that the 1/4" NPT wasn't quite correct, but to wrap it with teflon tape and screw it in anyways. That's what I did, no leaks.
02-25-2010, 10:24 AM
#13
I ordered these... http://www.purechoicemotorsports.com...rod/prd177.htm
i just don't know if my trans has the quick connects on it or not...
Its at the trans shop for a rebuilt right now, so i check it out when i get it back.
02-27-2010, 06:02 PM
#15
Wow forgot about this thread for a few days and quite a few posts. I'm using the b&m 70266 cooler mounted dope style up behind the airdam - it's the 20500 BTU model
Here's a shot of the tailshaft and with the cover removed. Which one is it? Looks to be a 30/31 spline shaft.
Here's the fittings and the weird brass fitting bosses I was referring to. I haven't tried to thread anything into it yet, with fear that I'd split the fitting. Was this what you threaded into Hydrosteam6?
Last but not least, I cut the ears off the case today, does this look like I cut enough material off for a good fit?
Thanks for all the help fellas
Here's a shot of the tailshaft and with the cover removed. Which one is it? Looks to be a 30/31 spline shaft.
Here's the fittings and the weird brass fitting bosses I was referring to. I haven't tried to thread anything into it yet, with fear that I'd split the fitting. Was this what you threaded into Hydrosteam6?
Last but not least, I cut the ears off the case today, does this look like I cut enough material off for a good fit?
Thanks for all the help fellas
Last edited by Photochop; 02-27-2010 at 06:17 PM.
02-27-2010, 06:40 PM
#16
I ordered these... http://www.purechoicemotorsports.com...rod/prd177.htm