deleting torque management?
#1
deleting torque management?
I just ordered my Circle D (3000-3200) stall. I am going to install it along with a B&M 24k trans cooler. Ive done some researching and ive found about 35% of people saying delete all of the torque management and another 35% saying keep it and 30% saying delete some of it. People also said that torque management saves the trans. Also some people have said a stall without a tune will not reach its full potential. My WS6 is my daily driver. I literally drive it everyday as it is my only current car. I rarely race my car and if i do its never from a dig, only from slow rolls. So my question is should I delete none, some, or all my torque mangement? Of course I dont want my transmission to fail anytime soon. Is there anybody that DD's their cars with all torque management removed? I have 41k miles on my car so far (if that makes a diff). Any opinions?
#2
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Join Date: May 2008
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I put about 6k miles on my car(47k-53k) without TM before the transmission died. Granted mines isn't the best example as the 2-3 was already failing before I did anything at all. I can't say I noticed a difference between TM and no TM but I did have a stock stall at the time. I'm sure someone with more information will chime in soon.
#4
I say to delete it 100%
Why modify a car to have more power and then choke it off with TM?
If you removed TM and your trans took a **** it's probably because you added enough power to require transmission upgrades.
I've hit TM with my car a few times when it was 100% stock.
Now I'd probably say my transmission is built and tuned more than the rest of the car, it's going to fail one day as all automatics will, and when it does I'll upgrade whatever failed. Thats how car building has been since it's existence. Add power until something breaks, then upgrade what broke.
Have you ever heard of anyone adding power to an old muscle car and then putting a restrictor plate or something on it to bring the power back down so nothing breaks? Never.
If you don't want to break anything, don't add the converter. Keep the car stock.
Why modify a car to have more power and then choke it off with TM?
If you removed TM and your trans took a **** it's probably because you added enough power to require transmission upgrades.
I've hit TM with my car a few times when it was 100% stock.
Now I'd probably say my transmission is built and tuned more than the rest of the car, it's going to fail one day as all automatics will, and when it does I'll upgrade whatever failed. Thats how car building has been since it's existence. Add power until something breaks, then upgrade what broke.
Have you ever heard of anyone adding power to an old muscle car and then putting a restrictor plate or something on it to bring the power back down so nothing breaks? Never.
If you don't want to break anything, don't add the converter. Keep the car stock.
#7
TECH Fanatic
I never removed tq mgmt in my tranny, and its only recently begun to slip, tagging the limiter in the 2-3 shift.
Have around 50k miles on my converter, 70k total on the car.
I have used 25 plus bottles of nitrous of nitrous, spraying thru the shifts and untill now, no issues.
I would say, unless your running a built trans, leave tq mgmt alone.
With good maint. your tranny should last a long time.
Have around 50k miles on my converter, 70k total on the car.
I have used 25 plus bottles of nitrous of nitrous, spraying thru the shifts and untill now, no issues.
I would say, unless your running a built trans, leave tq mgmt alone.
With good maint. your tranny should last a long time.
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#10
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Several years ago, I had the Tune that deleted TM and car drove like crap and killed my gas mileage. Put the stock tune back in and now car drives good. This is a DD.
#11
#12
yeah i ended up getting the 278. I wanted to take care of the dead spots, shift a lot better and also keep my rpms up. I never take it to the track. its my DD. Im waiting to get another fbody to get the 245mm.
#13
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (14)
Thats cool man, I actually just spoke with chris today and i'm torn between that one and the 258mm 3200-3400 i think the 245 would be a little loose even with my gears so the 258 should bridge the gap between the two... performance of the 245 and a little tighter around town plus it is a billet converter. But when you do get your 278 in please post up some vids. Ive been asking people with them to post up and so far nothing id really like to see how it is compared to some others. thanks and good luck
#14
Deleate the TM. it pulls timeing out when you stomp on it. After i built my tranny with better internals i tuned the TM out, felt more exceleration, changed the shift points. The car pulls better cause the timeing has been advanced a bit for part and WOT stompage also.
I had put the 3:73's from motive in about a month before tuneing and that made a big difference also.
I had put the 3:73's from motive in about a month before tuneing and that made a big difference also.
#15
TECH Senior Member
There are two torque management sets of parameters:
- Torque Limiting (in engine calibration)
- Torque Reduction (in trans calibration)
[ I'm using EFILive terminology ]
The first one does what Jays said (reduces engine torque output by pulling timing when calc power exceeds some table).
The second one reduces engine torque by pulling timing for the duration of the shift (about 0.1-0.2 second).
In both cases, GM's idea was to protect the stock drivetrain (trans and axle)... if you mod the engine and neglect the drivetrain, then you have to decide what you want to do (the right answer is "upgrade the trans and axle").
Sometimes you can use TR to control shift feel (limit the harshness of an upshift, mainly for street use)... TR can be the difference between tire chirp and breaking loose.
Which one is being referred to in this thread, TL or TR (seems like both)...?
- Torque Limiting (in engine calibration)
- Torque Reduction (in trans calibration)
[ I'm using EFILive terminology ]
The first one does what Jays said (reduces engine torque output by pulling timing when calc power exceeds some table).
The second one reduces engine torque by pulling timing for the duration of the shift (about 0.1-0.2 second).
In both cases, GM's idea was to protect the stock drivetrain (trans and axle)... if you mod the engine and neglect the drivetrain, then you have to decide what you want to do (the right answer is "upgrade the trans and axle").
Sometimes you can use TR to control shift feel (limit the harshness of an upshift, mainly for street use)... TR can be the difference between tire chirp and breaking loose.
Which one is being referred to in this thread, TL or TR (seems like both)...?