4L60E issues engaging into 4th after rebuild
#1
Staging Lane
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4L60E issues engaging into 4th after rebuild
Hey guys I was looking for some help. The issue is I had to rebuild my tranny with the TCI kit and the kits front seal wasnt no good at sealing but wasnt leaking when I got through with it anyway its my ole ladys car and she said she had been checking the fluid until one day she said it stop pulling and it burnt 2nd gear up due to no fluid. I went ahead and ordered another TCI kit put it in, no leaks wht so ever but it goes through 1 to 3rd great in the air but it seems it misses 4 and trying to engage lock up it is just jumping in and out of gear its either lock up engaging of jumping in and out of 4th? Its the exact same kit as before but something is different. I just know I exchanged a burnt second for a jumping 4th gear. I have already pulled it and check twice, no pinched seals. I really couldnt check the clearences on the overrun clutches due to the feeler gauges but when I compress it with my fingers it appears to be .035 to .045 clearence. I know I shouldnt eyeball, but I figured the last kit that was the same did great this one should be the exact same since its the same kit? One more thing before I pulled the second time/tare apart I was just curious as to wht it would do going up the drive way like I said 1 to 3rd was great but when I shifted into 4th it slowed down like the band was engaged like I was breaking just wouldnt do anything other than slow down. Thats when I took it apart nothing visual wrong.
#2
If it was fine before the last time you went through it, then maybe you installed incorrect seperator plate gaskets. Maybe you left a checkball out, maybe a shift valve is binding.... Honestly, thats going to be difficult to find in an internet discussion.
I would probably start with the servo, make sure it is not binding or draggin in any way. Then after thats happy I would take a long hard look at the valve body.
Have you called TCI to see whT thay have to say?
g
I would probably start with the servo, make sure it is not binding or draggin in any way. Then after thats happy I would take a long hard look at the valve body.
Have you called TCI to see whT thay have to say?
g
#3
Staging Lane
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Thanks for ur response. I did call them and said wht I wrote. They said they really don't know but they did say if the clutch packs were to tight they would have burned up when I took it down the driveway with the band dragging. They also said check my servos aswell and look at my valve body. They said to drive it and see if it trips a code. I'm not going to do that since it will burn up the band from dragging trying to engage 4th. I have already drop and look through it 3 times. I will look through the valvebody and servos again, maybe I did overlook sonething. How possible is it for the TCC solenoid being stuck trying to engage lookup? Would that cause my issues TCI DIDN'T KNOW? I did put the C and V baskets in since its the 99 model trans say 98 on the valvebody, but I will go through and look again. This may sound stupid but does anybody have a valvebody lay out just in case I mess up. I just would like to have something to reference by like the pwm and 3-2 solenoids and so on?
Last edited by 98pontiacfirehawk; 09-28-2011 at 01:41 PM.
#4
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The dragging/slowing down 4th gear on your latest build is the over-run clutch is not releasing, most likely steels between the forward/overun clutches are mis-stacked. The band/drum will loose this fight believe it or not. Those 2 baby clutches will cook the band if they are already holding when the band comes on.
Also, u can not swap a 95 seperator plate for 96-up w/o changing the 3-2 solenoid, valve stack-up, and harness.....dropping out of 4th, premature band burn-up (like REAL quick)
Check these and good luck
Also, u can not swap a 95 seperator plate for 96-up w/o changing the 3-2 solenoid, valve stack-up, and harness.....dropping out of 4th, premature band burn-up (like REAL quick)
Check these and good luck
#5
98Pontiac Did this problem ever get fixed? I just rebuilt my trans and it is doing the same exact thing everything works fine just when it goes into 4 it acts crazy. Anyhow help on what was wrong with yours would be awesome thank you
#6
Moderator
If you can easily remove your servo, check that first. The outer piston is the 4th gear apply piston; check its seals carefully.
Next, drop the oil pan and apply air pressure with a rubber tipped nozzle to the hole under the servo; confirm that this applies the band. If the band is very loose, there are ways to tighten it.
Next, drop the valve body and check the spacer plate and gaskets.
Also check the 3-4 accumulator piston which can now be accessed.
According to ATSG, check the 2-3 shift valve train, the accumulator valve and the 3-2 control valve.
According to ATSG, check the "3rd Accumulator retainer and ball assembly"; this is the assembly you can see inside the servo part of the case.
These can all be checked/fixed without removing the transmission; hopefully it is one of those.
Next, drop the oil pan and apply air pressure with a rubber tipped nozzle to the hole under the servo; confirm that this applies the band. If the band is very loose, there are ways to tighten it.
Next, drop the valve body and check the spacer plate and gaskets.
Also check the 3-4 accumulator piston which can now be accessed.
According to ATSG, check the 2-3 shift valve train, the accumulator valve and the 3-2 control valve.
According to ATSG, check the "3rd Accumulator retainer and ball assembly"; this is the assembly you can see inside the servo part of the case.
These can all be checked/fixed without removing the transmission; hopefully it is one of those.
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#8
If you can easily remove your servo, check that first. The outer piston is the 4th gear apply piston; check its seals carefully.
Next, drop the oil pan and apply air pressure with a rubber tipped nozzle to the hole under the servo; confirm that this applies the band. If the band is very loose, there are ways to tighten it.
Next, drop the valve body and check the spacer plate and gaskets.
Also check the 3-4 accumulator piston which can now be accessed.
According to ATSG, check the 2-3 shift valve train, the accumulator valve and the 3-2 control valve.
According to ATSG, check the "3rd Accumulator retainer and ball assembly"; this is the assembly you can see inside the servo part of the case.
These can all be checked/fixed without removing the transmission; hopefully it is one of those.
Next, drop the oil pan and apply air pressure with a rubber tipped nozzle to the hole under the servo; confirm that this applies the band. If the band is very loose, there are ways to tighten it.
Next, drop the valve body and check the spacer plate and gaskets.
Also check the 3-4 accumulator piston which can now be accessed.
According to ATSG, check the 2-3 shift valve train, the accumulator valve and the 3-2 control valve.
According to ATSG, check the "3rd Accumulator retainer and ball assembly"; this is the assembly you can see inside the servo part of the case.
These can all be checked/fixed without removing the transmission; hopefully it is one of those.
cheers
#9
Moderator
As I understand it, if you cannot turn the driveshaft by hand (when not in park with rear wheels off ground), then the band is too tight. You should compare the turning force with and without the servo installed.When experimenting, you should leave the blue o-ring off and only install the cover snap ring. The band should be barely snug but not dragging the drum.
There are several ways to change the band tightness:
1. The Transgo HD2 kit (and perhaps others) include washer-like shims that go between the servo and the cover which tighten the band. You install the correct number - 0, 1 or 2.
2. You can buy a longer servo pin which you then grind down to the desired length. I.e. if you feel drag on the driveshaft, grind the pin down more.
3. My local trans builder say he just welds on the end of the stock pin and then grinds it down to the desired length.
4. At least one company makes pin "extenders". That just sounds tricky and risky to me. A longer pin doesn't cost much.
Of course, if your band is very loose, it is likely because it is worn and needs replacement.
Again, I'm no trans expert, so perhaps someone would like to correct or expand on my info.
#10
Help..
The dragging/slowing down 4th gear on your latest build is the over-run clutch is not releasing, most likely steels between the forward/overun clutches are mis-stacked. The band/drum will loose this fight believe it or not. Those 2 baby clutches will cook the band if they are already holding when the band comes on.
Also, u can not swap a 95 seperator plate for 96-up w/o changing the 3-2 solenoid, valve stack-up, and harness.....dropping out of 4th, premature band burn-up (like REAL quick)
Check these and good luck
Also, u can not swap a 95 seperator plate for 96-up w/o changing the 3-2 solenoid, valve stack-up, and harness.....dropping out of 4th, premature band burn-up (like REAL quick)
Check these and good luck
"The dragging/slowing down 4th gear on your latest build is the over-run clutch is not releasing, most likely steels between the forward/overun clutches are mis-stacked."
Hello,
Can you elaborate on how they would be misstacked?