boola1341

iTrader: (1)

Ive noticed a small trans leak that looks to be coming from the tail shaft where it meets the trans.....does that sound about right. Could there be a bad seal. Leak is definitely at the rear of the trans. If its the seal how much $$$ am I looking at to getting it fixed???

mrvedit

The tailshaft seals to the trans with a large o-ring (more like a squared off o-ring). There is also a seal in the back of the trailshaft which seal to the slide-yoke. I would expect a competent shop to charge only 1 hour labor and less than $10 for parts. If you are comfortable removing the driveshaft, you can do it yourself.

boola1341

iTrader: (1)

I hope that's the only problem. Whats the worst it could be when leaking from the rear of the trans???

boola1341

iTrader: (1)

Also it mainly starts leaking after I've driven it hard. Normal driving it hardly leaks, more like a slow annoying water faucet drip.

mrvedit

I think worst case is a cracked tail housing. Note that the tail housing is designed to have ATF in it; so it is supposed to be there, but obviously not leak out of there.

bbond105

The driveshaft yoke could also have a grove worn in it from the seal.

mrvedit

Yes, you are right; I overlooked that possibility. That can be checked when the driveshaft is removed; if needed the yoke is then easy to replace.

boola1341

iTrader: (1)

ok thanks for the response. Found out my trans mount is also busted. I've heard about the vibrations with the poly mounts and the rubber mounts being to soft and breaking easily. Spohn sells a trans poly mount and they claim theirs are the same height as the oem mount and doesn't have all that vibration. Anyone tried them??

Cajun ELESS-ONE

my tailshaft just started leaking. about 20 minutes ago. gonna change it tomorrow. watch some vids on youtube to see how to do it. looks simple.

boola1341

iTrader: (1)

I cant see any cracks in the tailshaft unless its on top of the damn thing. Gonna have to pull it completely off. Also I installed the poly trans mount and had alot of vibration. So I done some searching and was adviced to remove the plate that comes with the mount. Problem was solved with that and now back to the tailshaft, The tailshaft is a 6 bolt

boola1341

iTrader: (1)

did you replace the tail shaft???? how hard would it be with floor jacks or ramps??

Cajun ELESS-ONE

turns out i cracked it where the bottom torque arm bolt went. broke from wheel hop. I went to the junk yard and got one from the same year as my camaro. i backed the car up on ramps. id do jack stands on the diff cuz you have to turn the drive shaft to get to the bolts. make sure you chalk the front tires. the hardest part was getting the torque arm off. take the bolts of the torque arm where they attach to the diff but dont try to take it off. the bolts are long so you will have to push up on the body to make space to pull the bolts out from the top. drop the drive shaft. then take the bolts holding the tailshaft off. leave the bolts holding the torque arm to the tail shaft. you cant remove them because there is no space and they are long. when you pull the arm off slide the whole unit off. careful to pull straight back so you dont nick the trans shaft. remove the seal or unbolt the arm from the tail shaft. make sure you put the rubber seal back where the tail shaft bolts to the trans. bolt the shaft back to the trans wit hthe arm reattached. put the drive shaft in first then put the arm back on the diff. it may be hard to get it on and off so angle the diff up or down alittle but it will slide on. again raise the car back up from the body to make space for the bolts to slide back in. tighten everything down and make sure the speed sensor is plugged back in. drop the car down and check the trans fluid for proper level.

boola1341

iTrader: (1)

ok...cool. thanks for the info

02DroptopZ

iTrader: (3)

Odds are you cracked the tailshaft housing. The way the torque arm mounts to the housing results in the arm transferring a lot of stress to it, and can easily develop a small crack under hard driving. I’ve swapped mine twice, and it’s an easy job with just a simple floor jack and stands.

If you did crack the housing and want to guarantee it doesn’t happen again, BMR and UMI make a torque arm relocation bracket that moves the torque arm off the housing. That bracket also allows you to use the tailshaft housing off a 2WD truck, which is much stronger and easier to find than the stock one. I cracked two stock housings and then did that swap, and I’ve been trouble free since.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Let me add, there is a bushing in the tail that supports and centers the driveshaft yoke while it spins. If your tail is high mileage and you are replacing the seal, it is a good idea to replace this bushing also. It is lightly pressed in (you could remove it without a press if you were careful) and you need to remove the tailshaft to change the bushing. If this bushing is worn too far, your new seal with not seal for long! I have found that there are places on ebay that sell the seal and bushing combo together for simplicity. If you aren't comfortable with the bushing removal, you can remove the tail and carry it to a machine shop and they can swap it for you.

Chevyman1968

Wana hear something funny. I helped Cajun eless one and when we went to the parts house to get the seal. The MANAGER of the store said that the Brass centering bushing is actually what kept the oil in and not the Seal so if it starts to leak that is the issue. WOW all that needs to be said about that.