Flex plate conversion for LT1 converter
11-17-2005, 11:28 PM
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Flex plate conversion for LT1 converter I have a 95 LT1 car that I am replacing the engine with a LS1. I want to use my LT1 A4 tranny and converter so will it bolt right up to a LS1 flex plate?
thanks
thanks
11-20-2005, 02:54 PM
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The LS1 Flexplate HAS NO weights on it (Balancing is internal to the engine). If the flex plate that you have has any weights on it, it will not work. Moreover, it is unlikely that the bolt pattern on the Flexplate will mate with the engine.
You will most likely need an LS1 Flexplate that you will have to drill to match your B29 Converter or whatever converter you happen to be using.
Sam
You will most likely need an LS1 Flexplate that you will have to drill to match your B29 Converter or whatever converter you happen to be using.
Sam
11-20-2005, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by HMFDZ28
Why not just get the correct LS1 converter and flexplate??????
Because a LS1 converter will not work in a LT1 tranny .
11-20-2005, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by samgm2
The LS1 Flexplate HAS NO weights on it (Balancing is internal to the engine). If the flex plate that you have has any weights on it, it will not work. Moreover, it is unlikely that the bolt pattern on the Flexplate will mate with the engine.
You will most likely need an LS1 Flexplate that you will have to drill to match your B29 Converter or whatever converter you happen to be using.
Sam
You will most likely need an LS1 Flexplate that you will have to drill to match your B29 Converter or whatever converter you happen to be using.
Sam
11-20-2005, 08:35 PM
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The crank pilot on your older torque converter is 1.600" in Diameter. The pilot hole in the LS1 engine is 1.700"
Fortunately the mismatch is in your favor. You simply need to make a small spacer that adapts one to the other.
The spacer would have an OD of 1.699" (-.004, +0) and and ID of 1.601" (-0.000 + 0.004).
If you have a lathe, it will take about 10 minutes to machine it. I will be making one tomorrow, in fact. I am doing exactly the same thing, until I modify my transmission to drive the correct torque converter.
I am told that to do this, I will need to replace the input shaft and the stator support in the pump.
If you want, once I finish the part, I can post the complete dimensions - but its a pretty trivial piece.
In fact, I have been driving my car using the old converter, the problem is vibration because the pilot on the torque converter is too small. I didn't notice it until today (someone (jason) on this site pointed out the discrepency).
Sam
Fortunately the mismatch is in your favor. You simply need to make a small spacer that adapts one to the other.
The spacer would have an OD of 1.699" (-.004, +0) and and ID of 1.601" (-0.000 + 0.004).
If you have a lathe, it will take about 10 minutes to machine it. I will be making one tomorrow, in fact. I am doing exactly the same thing, until I modify my transmission to drive the correct torque converter.
I am told that to do this, I will need to replace the input shaft and the stator support in the pump.
If you want, once I finish the part, I can post the complete dimensions - but its a pretty trivial piece.
In fact, I have been driving my car using the old converter, the problem is vibration because the pilot on the torque converter is too small. I didn't notice it until today (someone (jason) on this site pointed out the discrepency).
Sam
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11-20-2005, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by samgm2
The crank pilot on your older torque converter is 1.600" in Diameter. The pilot hole in the LS1 engine is 1.700"
Fortunately the mismatch is in your favor. You simply need to make a small spacer that adapts one to the other.
The spacer would have an OD of 1.699" (-.004, +0) and and ID of 1.601" (-0.000 + 0.004).
If you have a lathe, it will take about 10 minutes to machine it. I will be making one tomorrow, in fact. I am doing exactly the same thing, until I modify my transmission to drive the correct torque converter.
I am told that to do this, I will need to replace the input shaft and the stator support in the pump.
If you want, once I finish the part, I can post the complete dimensions - but its a pretty trivial piece.
In fact, I have been driving my car using the old converter, the problem is vibration because the pilot on the torque converter is too small. I didn't notice it until today (someone (jason) on this site pointed out the discrepency).
Sam
Fortunately the mismatch is in your favor. You simply need to make a small spacer that adapts one to the other.
The spacer would have an OD of 1.699" (-.004, +0) and and ID of 1.601" (-0.000 + 0.004).
If you have a lathe, it will take about 10 minutes to machine it. I will be making one tomorrow, in fact. I am doing exactly the same thing, until I modify my transmission to drive the correct torque converter.
I am told that to do this, I will need to replace the input shaft and the stator support in the pump.
If you want, once I finish the part, I can post the complete dimensions - but its a pretty trivial piece.
In fact, I have been driving my car using the old converter, the problem is vibration because the pilot on the torque converter is too small. I didn't notice it until today (someone (jason) on this site pointed out the discrepency).
Sam
11-24-2005, 09:55 AM
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Made a mistake on sizes. Turns out that both the old converter and the new converter are 1.700 inch. Don't know how I could have made such a mistake.
Anyway, this complicates the sleeve. I did make one, but it was a bear - requiring two machining attempts. The piece I made is out of 6061-T6. I don't particularly like this piece in aluminum, but it did work to line things up well. The piece feels no stress in operation and is not involved in power transfer. Aluminum against steel has the problem of galling when first mating the TC with the pilot hole. It should at least be anodized (not that I anodized mine). Ideally, it would be made of steel. I just didn't have any two inch mild steel rod stock handy.
The same thing can be accomplished with a spacer but this has some downsides as well. For one thing, a spacer would be involved in the power transfer. It extends the bolts out further and subjects them to quite a bit of sheer stress. On such a small diameter and with as much as 400 ft-pounds of force being applied on 2" radius, this solution would worry me. The chance of breaking a bolt eventually is significant. I would want an extremely hard bolt if I chose this solution and even then... An alignment pin would also be required to center the spacer. Not a great solution but it is a solution.
How far off is your project? I am going to rebuild my transmission in the future to accept the right torque converter. I can send you the piece when I am done with it. Or, if you really want to get your own now, send me a PM. I will draw my sleeve solution with dimensions for anyone else who may want it as soon as I can get to it.
Sam
Anyway, this complicates the sleeve. I did make one, but it was a bear - requiring two machining attempts. The piece I made is out of 6061-T6. I don't particularly like this piece in aluminum, but it did work to line things up well. The piece feels no stress in operation and is not involved in power transfer. Aluminum against steel has the problem of galling when first mating the TC with the pilot hole. It should at least be anodized (not that I anodized mine). Ideally, it would be made of steel. I just didn't have any two inch mild steel rod stock handy.
The same thing can be accomplished with a spacer but this has some downsides as well. For one thing, a spacer would be involved in the power transfer. It extends the bolts out further and subjects them to quite a bit of sheer stress. On such a small diameter and with as much as 400 ft-pounds of force being applied on 2" radius, this solution would worry me. The chance of breaking a bolt eventually is significant. I would want an extremely hard bolt if I chose this solution and even then... An alignment pin would also be required to center the spacer. Not a great solution but it is a solution.
How far off is your project? I am going to rebuild my transmission in the future to accept the right torque converter. I can send you the piece when I am done with it. Or, if you really want to get your own now, send me a PM. I will draw my sleeve solution with dimensions for anyone else who may want it as soon as I can get to it.
Sam
11-24-2005, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Yank
Why not go to the dealer and get the crank spacer for the 4l80-e for about $20.00
11-27-2005, 10:47 PM
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found some useful info. look at the bottom for part #s
http://www.hpsalvage.com/st.htm
It does show a flywheel part #. I wonder if this will fit the LS1 engine?
http://www.hpsalvage.com/st.htm
It does show a flywheel part #. I wonder if this will fit the LS1 engine?
