Droptoplt1ta

My car keeps on eating 3-4 clutch packs. My car is a H/C full bolt on LT1.

In 2001 I had the trans built by a pro for $1400. My car was full bolt ons and heads at the time.

2005- I added the cc305 cam. Lost the 3-4 clutch pack. I then replaced that clutch pack with a 9 alto red eagle kit, and also removed the load springs on the side. - Fried that

Then I added the Raybestos Blue place specials and also added the sonax boost valve. - Just fried that

Now im thinking of adding the Heavy duty release springs and the transmisson centers special alto 3-4 clutch kit.

Think this will hold up?

red jet

this happen to me two times with my lt-1 ,so what I did is learn how to rebuild it myself by buying manuals and doing research on the web I also bought several parts from artt carr transmission like billet input drum, sun shell and other items I also added extra steels and clutches to 3-4 clutch pack in the input drum I also used raybesto blue plate clutches. After the last repair the tranny was still shifting strong until I sold it, I sold it with 50k miles on rebuild. good luck

FLT

iTrader: (1)

Red Jet, Are you sure the input drum was Billet? Far as i know nobody makes a billet drum! I've looked into having it made! Big bucks and too heavy for the bushings to support it. The drum smart builders use is a sleeved drum and some have it treated as well. I looked at arts site didn't see the billet one.

Rock-On

iTrader: (-2)

Hey you guys, first things first.....if you have repeat burn on any clutch you've gotta find out WHY it's burning.....theses 4L60E transmissions can hold over 700 rwhp...without problems.....

Repeat burn is normally caused by low pressure....improper line rise.....crossleaks....or leaks in the clutch circuit.....Stop looking at the h.p. and start looking at the hydro. circuits...When you use differant clutchs and it keeps burning why would you keep changing them and expect differant results???

Is your pump set up for HI-REV??? how much line pressure you running up top????? Are your selinoid screens pluged??? Is your line rise responsive/to your foot??? How bout your selinoid is it stuck??? Do a clutch leak test(you probably don't have the tools for that)?? These are some of the questions that need to be answered...not load springs or clutch compounds, find out why your burning fix that then enjoy the differant clutchs...alot of combos out there...lot of opinions about them as well...hope this helps ..Dave

FLT

iTrader: (1)

First things first! Absolutely I would have to agree.

Droptoplt1ta

Pump set to high rev???? Well I know I have a 13 vane pump rotor. The car has a PCM for less tune. Does adding that one heavy duty spring to the pump make it High rev?

Rock-On

iTrader: (-2)

Thats a start(adding that hi rev spring)...these stock springs(slider springs theres two of them) will cavitate a pump at around 5500 rpm's...you'll watch it on the gage...it'll steadly rise till about 5500 rpm's than it will loose all pressure till you drop below the 5500r's....then it'll start pumping again...guess what your clutchs are doing??? they are falling off...(slipping) and grabbing (slipping)..then your burning...from the slipping....Then you think "wow" my clutch pack is junk. Then you start the cycle all over again....

Invest in a gage...Mac tools is the cheapest...around 75.00 bucks...put the gage on the trans and watch it as you drive the car ...spend alot of time maybe a sat. afternoon write down what you find... watch the gage as the car shifts....watch the pressure drop and recover with every shift...what are the pressures?? how did the shift feel ..whats the pressure up top ..have someone else ride with you to watch the gage....buy a coke or a shake...relax and discover what your transmission is doing....

It's not the springs added or the springs removed(drum springs) (anti apply springs)...there are millions of these transmissions on the road today with these springs..working with lower pressures and they work fine ..so stop chaseing that rabbit. I throw the springs out, I add stronger springs...I like my transmissions to come outta gear...FAST!! I want that apply oil removed as fast as possiable, I don't want next gear bind up...Also I want stronger springs to prevent hi rev apply...this also burns your clutchs.nuf said about these springs...

Depending on your hp level I'd want higher pressures too. I like 230 lbs of pressure...That works well for us..230 lbs of pressure, hi-rev spring, anti apply springs added, with a 7 pack borg warner hi-energy clutch...I like thick steels for a cooler pac..thats waht we do...hope this helps...Dave

chris718

the only company to ever produce the drum was us at ckperformance from a steel billet .it never caught on as the cost was too high and the demand low.searching old third gen posts will yield the information.anyhow,the 3/4 pack works best like this .bottom apply plate use a .106"4l60e stock steel,060" friction and 080" steels and repeat until youve got10 or 11 clutches(depending on the apply fingers) and use another .106" steel as the pressure plate.dont use the load release springs and install a th400 intermediate band return spring inboard of the servo to speed knock off of the band in relation to third clutch pack apply / accumulation.as usual the tv system should produce between 90 and 235 psi depending on throttle angle.this means the pressure should rise approximately 36.25 psi for every 22.5degrees of throttle angle 0 being closed and 90 being wide open.this is accurate for both tv cable and electronic systems.remeber the tv system is fed 90 psi from the tv limit valve and regulates this modulated tv psi from 0 to 90 psi .0 being 0 tv pull and 90 being wide open throttle .it is this pressure that passes thru the line bias valve placing a negative load on the pr valve via the tv boost valve and increases pressure by making inlet oil pressure have to increase its psi before it can open the pr valve and spring.also the passageways leading to the 3/4 clutch pack trap air and as a result increase the amount of time clamping happens .boring out the input housing where the piston sits is an area we can modifyto multiply clamping force however you will need to machine an oversize apply piston.seperator plate mods for third clutch apply vary between the 4l60 and e versions and compliment apply if done properly.i have yet to see the need for the transgo springs be needed in the drum either.if you follow the feed back to the valve body youll find an open exhaust port for the 3/4 pack when the 2/3 shift valve is closed .this is where you improve clutch release speed.as for manual shifts third exhaust can be increased at the manual valve area.there are inherent crosleaks at the imput shaft and stator area.this can partially apply third clutches in first or manual 2nd gear.not good when operating in first gear reduction or when the band is on.converting the pump over to constant displacement is also another area of concern .if the slide is held in its maximum output position (as where it is when the engine is off)loss of pressure at wot and above 6000 rpms isnt a problem.the trick is to reroute decrease oil away from the slide and increase blow valve spring pressure and intake air bleed orifice size.constant displacement conversion does increase parasitic power loss but at the benefit of increased volume.and remember you can air check the third clutch with the valve body installed on the trans by applying air into the third exhaust passage in the valve body with the manual valve in the d4 position on tv cable equpped units

PETE GIL

ROCK-ON MY 4L60E HAS burn 3 and 4 gear 3times a and it was leaking after I drove the car some shop in baytown tx trying to fix it for the 3rd time you siad it could be the SELINOID please help!!!

Rock-On

iTrader: (-2)

Hey pete, I need more info...could be a selinoid, or controll problem....Please call me so I can get more information...Hope this helps .... Dave