Rebelord

iTrader: (2)

Yea, like the title says. I launch in D. Spin kinda bad, rev out 1st gear. Shifts fine to 2nd gear spin a little on the shift then it goes straight to 3rd gear. WTF? I'm doing 50-55mph and it goes to 3rd? I couldnt ever get in a good run because of this. I found myself having to manually downshift it back to 2nd gear then upshift to 3rd just to run a 13.6@113mph??? WTF? The 1 and ONLY time it worked as advertised I ran a measly 12.72@114. Bah..I got so mad I almost wanted to just run it into the sandtraps and leave the damn car. If I go out on my street in front of my house, I and launch it spin all through 1st, it'll shift to 2nd and spin but hold it until the proper damn shift point!...but noooo not on the freakin track. It wants to do whatever..

I hate this damn tranny. No matter what you program it still does whatever it wants.

Ski

slimcracka

iTrader: (7)

sorry the ole 4l60e blues!

Rebelord

iTrader: (2)

and they suck!

JNorris

iTrader: (4)

What are your mods? Are you running the stock torque converter? Have you had your PCM reprogrammed?
Are your track tires the same diameter as your street tires?


John

Rebelord

iTrader: (2)

Here are my mods:

Full bolt ons including Ported TB, but no pulley. Pacesetter LTs !air, ofy pipe, magnaflow. F14 cam w/usual stuff, 3200 Hughes stall, 4.11 gears, street tires are bfg kd sports 275/40r17. Diablo programmer for fixing speedo and trying to fix tranny.

Thats what I have. I have the shift points set for: 1-2 40mph@5700rpm 2-3 76mph@5700rpm 3-4 119mph@5700rpm
I tried to raise the rpm shift points to 6k but I bang my rev limiter thats set at 6300rpm.

Any advice would be appreciated. I will be getting a good dyno tune. But I'm getting a new stall(art carr 4000), and need to get a tq arm, keep breaking tailshaft housings.

Ski

JNorris

iTrader: (4)

From my own experience I can tell you that if I have any wheel spin in 2nd gear and then hook the transmission will short shift on 2-3. Why? I do not know. I wish I had some solid advice to offer but I do not. Maybe you can borrow a set of tires that will hook and see if it shifts better.

John

Rebelord

iTrader: (2)

well, at least I dont feel isolated on that then. I will not be going back to the track until I have tires and few other things. not going to waiste my time and just get frustrated over it. Getting some welds and hoosiers or goodyears.

Ski

Black LS1 T/A

I have this problem EXACTLY!

FINALLY! Some other folk are speaking up!

When I started racing my 422, on the track (or in the street when I get a SUPER burnout) ... when I get a good hook-up, if THEN I have to feather into the throttle for best 60', it will shift 1~2 about 3700 abd 2~3 at about 4800 rpms. It's almost as if it's going for the part-throttle tables instead of the WOT tables. (I ran my best of 10.84 @ 124 PMH with this phenomenon occurring.

To overcome this short-shifting, I have to start in 1st, shift quiclky after launch (or it will over-rev), then shift to 3rd again quickly (when it completes the 1~2 shift. When I do this, it seems to shift according to the tables I've tuned.

On the street (because, I can only assess, it is not really "hooking up") , it always attempts shift where I have programmed it. Of course, it is off depending on how much wheel-spin and tach delay occur.

But, the frustrating thing is, you can't tune for it before going to the track, because it ONLY happens when you are racing.

ChevPower

iTrader: (8)

If you spin you can through your shift points out the window but it sounds like you are spinning and the speed sensor is seeing the mph to shift so it does after the it shifts it hooks slowing the wheel speed down now it depends on what your kick down tables are at if it going to drop back or stay in its current gear

Black LS1 T/A

Throttle kickdown is 100 across the board for 2~1, 3~2 and 4~3.

Those are also the stock values. I've never heard of anyone editing these tables for any reason. If you can give me some criteria to go by, I'd love to hear it.