bene

iTrader: (16)

I want to know what do you guys use (brand, type, etc.)

bene

iTrader: (16)

WTF? 18 views and no replies? TTT please.

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

dexron fluild filters vary

=Tac=

iTrader: (8)

I just changed and put in Mobil 1 syn ATF with some lucas ATF stuff. Filter was from autozone. Should have been paying attention though, I have fluid thats "good for around 33,000 miles," but when I was putting the filter in I noticed on the box "Change every 10,000 miles."

lol, kinda feel like i've wasted money on synthetic since, though I'm going to put a transgo shift kit in it in a few months so kinda doesnt matter.

bene

iTrader: (16)

yeah, i heard synthetic is bad for A4s.

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

some people say it is but we have and have many customers running either with no problems though the dexron does tend to make a little better shift feel or seems like it anyway

buffman

iTrader: (9)

get that crappy lucas stuff outta there. Can't really go wrong with filter choice.

back4more

the lucas stop leak is actually pretty good is mostly molibium delsulfide. which is great for lube charactreistics...... not so much for heat but that is why you use only a quart or less in a fluid change. filter wise you got two choices (everyone sells one of the two and packages.) Filtran or chinese. go spx/filtran same company says made in usa right on it. the chinese brand is such a fine mesh that it has problems sucking at high rpm. as far as fluids i would go synthetic as long as you still change it just as often dont use it as an excuse to not have to service all oil companies will agree takes more heat, is a better lube, foams less, less oxidation all the good stuff.

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

Thing and i read this a long time ago but im sure it still holds true. Trans fliuld has to do alot more than engine oil , its hydralic fluild so it cant foam up, Its a coolant and its a lubricant, But there is a fine line walked in the lubricant part, Yes you need some lubrication in the trans though with the exception of a few washers most of the heavy load areas planets etc use needle bearing so lubrication to some extent but cooling more so is needed , But you also need friction characteristics since the trans entire function depends on this, It is how it transfers power, So to much lubrication could be a bad thing for that reason. Now I do know this, every magaizine(tech mags)I have ever read and engineers I used to speak with at toledo transkit .(they were bought up a few years ago but were considered the **** at one time)all said never to use any additive that contained molybdenum disulfide now perhaps the school of though has changed since then but what I was told and understood was that it was to slick and didnt have the right friction properties for a transmission but was great for engines, Ill have to look into it some more. I do know from tearing perfectly good transmissions down that if a trans is good and relativly new do not put stop leak in them. It works like brake fluild and softens and swells seals. While this may help with and old trans thats on its last legs I can tell you from personal first hand its a bad thing for a good trans that already has soft seals. I have sen people put cans of the various stop leaks in there transmission at there first change after a rebuild and a few days lated be in with a slipping trans. When you tear it down you find seals swolen considerably and even in some cases turned to mush literally to the point you have to scrap them out of the piston groove they are in with a pic.
Im my opinion the only thing that should ever go into a transmission is transmission fluildor a friction modifyer suct as smart blend or lubeguard in case of clutch chatter that sometimes happens with the cars with PWM still enabled on the converter.
Wether the fluild is sythetic or not is of no great importance since they both are required to at least meet oem fluild standards to the cars they were intended to be used in,
One odd note and I dont suggest it for late transmissions because of the converter clutch but it used to be common to put type F in th350s and 400s the reason it has better friction properties and dosent lube as much similar to the way trick shift was marketed to be at one time making for firmer shifts.
In fact I remember reading and article back then comparing trick shift of the time and the only real techincal difference was color. Of course im sure it to has changed over the years.
just a little usless information and why did my type get bold i like that?

XpEdItIoUs

iTrader: (44)

That some good info, What should i use on my th400.

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

personally I still like using type F in TH350 and 400 transmissions its cheap has excellent friction properties and high heat range

back4more

Like you performa i can only tell you from my experience and i will say that some times trans fluid can foam. true it does have anti foam addatives but if you read like dexron 6, which does retro fit to 4l60e (according to steve garrett which i know you know who he is), it says it is less likely to foam (less imply it slighlty does now). but about the dilsulfide, needle bearings do need lube not much mind you but yes some. the most important reason i heard from the lucas camp for using it is the fact that it gives that stickyness, (i know insert joke here). have you ever seen those little gears in the auto part store, where you turn the gear and the oil sticks to the gears more with the dilsulfide. Yes in EXCESS they do cause seals to swell but when i have used it i put half a quart in a completely dry unit, so not much. And if you listen to a dealer they will tell you to put factory fluid in and never anything else...... including lube gaurd so.... who's right i dont know

XpEdItIoUs

iTrader: (44)

Where can i get that?

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

Most auto parts stores still have it its actually ford transmission fluild from the 1950s to the 1980s just got fazed out with the advent of the converter clutch since it makes them more prone to converter chatter on lockup which is why I do not suggest it for lockup vehicles

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

back4more - Yes i have seen it foam to but its not supposed too and ussually theres and underlying cause such as overheating or over fill allowing it to get up into the turning assemblies like a blender lol, On the lucas and the climbing thats and isue i dicussed the other day with someone , where i can see in and engine why it might be desirable in a trans that too worries me considering that particulary with the 4l60e the pan barley has enoughfluild in it to start with its just a small amount from eptying out anyway the valve body takes up most of the space , And it would seem that you actually would want the fliud to return to the pan in as rapid a way as possible.
On the stop leak I dont know to me why fix something that isnt broke , dont get me wrong I have put it in a failing trans old ones and bought some time. But honestly if the fliuld is changed and the temps are kept down like they should be the seals wont get hard . I have seen cars with 200000 miles that were serviced well and had a cooler where the trans started slipping but not because the seals were hard they were perfect, but the lining had actually worn down so much on the frictions there wasnt enough left to hold anything.
On the lube guard Im with the factory I only use it if the converter clutch chatter issue does come up with the PWM cars and it can solve the problem of course before it i used to put in some rear end posi diff additive and that worked too lol .
But each to his own no argument here just listing some observations I have made over the years

ChocoTaco369

Havoline conventional Dexron III with a Napa filter.

Rebelord

iTrader: (2)

Napa tranny filter and Napa premium Dexron3 atf fluid. I wasted my money and got a case of Royal Purple Syn. fluid once, tranny was gone within the week. I will never run synthetic again. I'll stick to the good ole napa stuff. Works like a charm every time.

Ski