Camaro_Zach

iTrader: (19)

OK

So the car used to lockup perfectly then just stopped one day. I hooked up a manual lockup switch on my buddies car...did nothing the first few times we flipped it (yes over 50 mph, car was in 4th)...then I did it once more for fun and it all of a sudden locked up. Then we went out and it would "lock up" whenever I flipped the switch, HOWEVER, when he gassed it, it would still slip, so it was like a half lockup, the rpm's would drop but it was still slipping, so needless to say we stopped locking it up, assumed it was a poor ground or something. Disconnected the switch and all of a sudden today its locking up on its own again but doing the slipping lockup....any input is apprecaited at this point, we are lost.

--Z

Gilbert@Ace Racing

Well the 1st thing that comes to mind is the converter clutch itself is slipping. However 4L60E's are very bad about the PWM valve wearing out the valve body bore causing similar symptoms, leaks in the TCC hydraulic circuit essentially causing a poor signal to the piston itself.

That being said, there are several fixes for it, one is addresses in the TG H/D -2 reprogramming kit.

To know more about the combination.. mods would be most useful.

g

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

Does the lockup switch your using ground both the lockup solenoid and the pwm solenoid? If it only enables the lockup solenoid the pwm will still allow varying percentages of lockup or Slip. To really make a test to see if the converter is capable of locking and staying locked you would need to have both the solenoids wired in.

Camaro_Zach

iTrader: (19)

Its a built tranny, stage 4, yank ss3600, head cam 430 rwhp car. Very few miles on the new tranny/stall combo. And only like 70 miles with the 430 rwhp before the issues began.

Camaro_Zach

iTrader: (19)

But even after the switch the computer started to lock it up on its own, even though it was slipping. The computer hasnt even attempted a lockup in over 3 weeks, and the very first drive after the switch was in place it locked up on its own, but did slip...so even if the switch was improper, the computer isnt doing it properly either. And it was just the one wire, just the tan/black wire.

Gilbert@Ace Racing

That's what I suspected, There are several tables in the software that determine whether L/U will be inhibited or not.

I think yours is a tuning issue. That is based on the mileage since upgrades comments and not the fact that it used to lock up and then just quit.

It is not uncommon to see a solenoid fail in a fresh unit, which may be the case here.... but I suspect it is either a mechanical or tuning issue. I'm leaning towards tuning because of the fact that it is such a new combination.

Hope that helps.

g

Gilbert@Ace Racing

What needs to happen here is get a scanner on it. Find out if L/U is being commanded when you think it should be. From there you can decide on how to proceed.

g

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

The tan with black stripe is only the lockup enable solenoid. While I agree its likley some tuning issue. Since you are allready half way there ground the brown wire in the trans harness also and see if you get full non slipping lockup. This will at least verify wether its a tuning issue completly or a trans/converter issue. If it fully locks up and stays that way with those two wires grounded you are looking at strictly a tuning issue. If not as I said you have a trans/converter issue you will need to address first.