Tig

Ever since my new billet converter was installed, at cruising speeds when it locks up, it shakes and causes a driveline vibration.
Otherwise, my transmission performs fine. Shifts fine and smooth, both up and downshifts. Its only when it locks up it has this ridiculous shudder/driveline vibration.

If I drive more spirited, it does not do it at all. Only when cruising at around 45mph.
Could it be the converter?
Is there any way to install a converter incorrectly?
Any ideas?

Thanks

Vetal

iTrader: (3)

My car is also vibrating at low rpms with locked converter under light power. Almost like something is grinding

Tig

Vetal,
This may be a misfire. Is your car throwing any codes?
That seems to be the conclusion to my situation. Finding the miss is what's going to be task.

JDub66

iTrader: (1)

Ok so I totally noobed it and didn't put fluid in my converter before I installed it.....am I screwed and have to take it out???? I assume so but want to confirm.....



https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...lm7-4l60e.html

I figured my gap from flywheel to converter already, the no fluid in the converter is worrying me.

Thanks!

Dustin11

No, your ok. Just make sure you have the trans full of fluid. When you crank the car the trans will quickly fill the converter so you'll have to re-check the fluid afterwards.

Chevymanty

Trans is stock to stock motor, 4160E, 4.8 motor, 2004 Chevy Silverado came out of? Thx

FTICONVERTERS

iTrader: (3)

Converter bolts should be M10x1.5

Chevymanty

thx, got it!

signguy62

TC is engaging the pump but won't fully seat. And once it's on the pump, it's very hard to pull back off. It seems like it's binding on the pump tabs. It's a remanufactured TC. Could the notches that engage the pump be too small to fully engage the pump? I'm at a loss here.

Jays_SSZ28

iTrader: (2)

The pump bushing probably went in crooked. With what you said the pump needs to be taken out and taken apart, inspected and repaired.

Next time put the pump on the converter before installation. The rebuilder should have done that on a spare pump as a check in my opinion.

signguy62

Well that's not what I wanted to hear. But thanks for the quick reply. Already been in touch with the rebuilder. We'll see how it goes.
Thanks!

Fah Cue

iTrader: (2)

I'll be doing this for the first time this weekend. My question is if the spacing between the torque converter and flex plate is greater then 3/16" it has to be shimmed. Does the transmission have to come back out in order to put in a spacer.
Does anyone have a pic of a spacer/washer they used?

MaroonMonsterLS1

Spacers/washers are pretty simple concepts...just make sure all 3 are equal. Some cheap hardware store washers can vary in thickness if you just pull any random 3 out of the bin.

I never pull the trans again to install shims...I just use a dab of transjel (you can use vaseline) to stick the shim to the flexplate...then rotate it and put my bolt in. Works like a charm

Fah Cue

iTrader: (2)

Ohhhh see, that makes all the sense. The way I was reading it was that the spacer was a big special washer that went between the pilot and the crank, instead of three washers on the mounting tabs.

signguy62

Okay, trans went back to the rebuilder. He's now telling me there's a slight twist to the input shaft. Say's the input shaft and drum now need to be replaced. Thoughts?

vorteciroc

That does not make sense...

signguy62

Was having issues with TC not fully seating on pump. It would engage the pump and then get stuck. Very hard to get the TC back off.
Rebuilder had me exchange the TC for another one. Same issue.
Now says its the input shaft that has a slight twist to it and that was causing the TC to get stuck. All I see is dollar signs!

vorteciroc

The forward most part of the turbine-shaft is the part that inserts into the clutch plate of the torque-converter.

Look at the splines on the turbine-shaft.
Do they look damaged to you?

They snap more often then anything else.
I would also look at the splines of the stator support coming out of the pump.

MaroonMonsterLS1

Builder pooped the install of the pump bushing. Doesn't want to admit.
I don't know that I've ever seen the splines on a 60 twist...I've seen them break or wear the splines right off but not twist.
Good luck, remember to fill us in on what the final fix is

Fah Cue

iTrader: (2)

Hey guys, I got it done. Other then the poly motor mounts keeping the engine/trans from sagging, then install went fine. I did have to shim for proper pullout however. My initial feel is that it's going to be an absolute blast to drive.
I can't wait to put my foot in it.

Quick question on getting the fluid level right. What determines warm from hot. I got it close but I don't want to overfill it.