Vince B

iTrader: (1)

Being that you have a Circle D converter I'm pretty sure that Chris builds those with an LS1 pilot. What I would do with the trans removed, is try to place it against the FP to see how much of the pilot is really going into the crank. You might want to put some grease on the pilot so you can see how far its actually going in. I'm pretty sure that they go in pretty far and you should be fine using shims.

Vetal

iTrader: (3)

with converter put against flexplate, it's in the crank about 1/8". With TC seated, gap is 1/4". I was advised to weld on TC pilot extension and I will try to do it, because as I understand 1/4" spacing is too much, and converter will get pulled out if I bolt it to the flexplate without any shims

TurbopigB4C

iTrader: (5)

Is there something I could have done wrong during my rebuild that would make the converter not be able to get the third click? I checked end play and everything was within spec when I installed everything. My pads to bellhousing measurement is only giving me about 3/4". I have installed tons of transmissions as an r&r tech in the past and this one just does not feel right. The converter is a freshly rebuilt PTC that was already on the car before.

Vince B

iTrader: (1)

I myself would like to see more than an 1/8 when the converter is fully against the FP. IMO something with your combo is not correct. You don't happen to have a 99 6.0 in your vehicle do you?

I answered this question in your thread this morning However I will post it here as well. Vince

I honestly do not go by the amount of clicks because in some cases you will not hear or feel them all. The only way to make sure its in all the way is to measure it. In the past when I have had one that was stubborn I have stood the trans on its out put shaft and then tried to get the converter installed the rest of the way. This normally works for me and its always best to do this with a second set of hands. HTH Vince

Busy Mopper

iTrader: (4)

good info. so how far should the t/c pilot go into the crank?

ldyzluvdis06

iTrader: (24)

i bought some different bolts again. M10-1.5-20mm

installed all 3, torqued them to spec. (46) i have just shy of a 3/16" gap between the converter pads and the flexplate. but if i grab one of the bolts and try to wiggle it (up and down) it wiggles ever so slightly. im guessing this isn't supposed to happen....??????

SS SLP2

iTrader: (8)

I do not know the size you need I would call the TC maker to be sure about the thread size as well as how long is needed

I would NOT run with any slack in bolts ( any bolt not tight)
>>this AN'T supposed to happen<<<



Johnny

Chiropaul

iTrader: (2)

I've followed the steps in the beginning of this thread, and when I measure the flexplate to torque converter tabs I have two that are at 1/8" or just slightly less and one that is 1/4". This is a tci converter that is brand new.

Do I just do a 1/8" spacer on the one hole or on all 3??

Btw, thanks to all who contributed to this post I learned a ton.

SS SLP2

iTrader: (8)

"Do I just do a 1/8" spacer on the one hole or on all 3??"
NOPE, you find out if the mounting pad on the TC is warped OR the flexplate is warped,(I bet this is problem) or the nose on the TC is off center -which I doudt, do not try to shim with that 1/8 on 2 legs and 1/4 on 1
just my .02's Johnny

FTICONVERTERS

iTrader: (3)

here is a link to an istall video that we made that covers shifter adjustment,converter spacing and filling procedures as well as band adjustment on a powerglide. The converter spacing and shifter adjustment will apply to all!!! Hope this will help.

Greg

Chiropaul

iTrader: (2)

Just and update to my original post, I pulled everything apart and checked the torque converter and one of the mounting tabs is bent slightly. Recommendations??

SS SLP2

iTrader: (8)

If the TC were coning in my car I would send it to the maker and have them repair it as I want everthing perfic if going into my car
Johnny

BlownStangGT

Bringing this back from the dead!

Helping a buddy put a performa built 4l60e in his 00 ss and fti converter. Converter seated what seamed like fine. We did it several times. Got tranny up and got all bolts in but one.....the converter would not move! Tried everything and nope. So we took bolts back out and reput in the trans. We kept the bottom two bolts loose and with all bolts in but one the converter would move. A little tight but it would move in a clock or counter clockwise pattern. There was a 1/8" gap between fingers and flex plate so that seemed all well. Just weird that the converter did not spin any easier then it did. With only the bottom two bolts in it would spin free and smooth but the more bolts we put in the tighter it go. Is this normal?

Vince B

iTrader: (1)

I would be questioning if the pilot hole in the crank is clean and free of debris. I normally do this and also clean any paint off the actual pilot of the converter as well. Also make sure that the surfaces of your bell housing, trans case or engine are clean and fairly flat. Seems like something is not right and yes it should turn fairly easy with all bolts installed for the bell housing. Hope this helps. Vince

Cole Train

iTrader: (30)

So the point of the 1/8" gap to be between the pads and the flexplate is to insure that the converter isn't seated too far into the pump/trans correct? Just want to make sure as i've never done an aftermarket converter. Thanks

Circle-D

iTrader: (21)

Correct. You want a little pull out on the converter when installing. The converter will move in an out of the transmission some. So you need clearance both ways so it does not bottom out on anything. But to much clearance and it can pull out of the pump gears/rotor and cause a major failure.

Chris

Cole Train

iTrader: (30)

Thanks Chris. I got the Converter last week can't wait to get it in the car with the 4L80

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

Excellent thread. Learned a lot.

Latch

iTrader: (8)

I reckon this would be a good sticky. Great information here.

PITT M3 RR

I have a quick question, I just installed a built 4l60E into my 99 Silverado and don't recall the gap between the converter to flex-plate. As of now, I am at about 380 miles and 3 weeks and everything has been running great. However, I went back under there today to install the skid plates and noticed a little tranny fluid on the snow under the truck. I looked at the inspection covers and down to oil pan along with where the motor meets bell-housing and saw that's where the fluid was. I pulled the covers and looked inside, I could not see a leaking point IN there, but there was a small pool inside the bell-housing at the flex-plate inspection hole.

Could an improperly gapped torque converter to flex-plate cause a leak in there? Also could I have damaged the tranny during this 380 miles? I am obviously not going to drive it until I check the gap.

The tranny is a stage 3 and the TC is a Recon from Transtar locally here in Pittsburgh.

This is the 2nd tranny I've installed into a full size GM, first went smooth so this one is making me upset with the leak.

Are there any ways I can see why this is leaking even if its not the TC to Flex-plate gap?

Thanks in advance.