Flywheel to Torque converter spacing 5.3 lm7 & 4l60e
05-10-2014, 11:31 PM
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Flywheel to Torque converter spacing 5.3 lm7 & 4l60e Ok so I'm pretty sure I made a huge mistake in not connecting my torque converter to my flywheel (I'm a noob, first engine/trans I have ever put in a car, so please be fair). Obviously I am not getting my wheels to spin when the car is in gear (car is currently on jackstands so I tested it reverse and drive and got no tire spin).
Here is a picture of the gap, please give me suggestions on spacers and how to install them. Part of me wonders if I can drop the starter and gain access to the flywheel and put the bolts in with washers between the flywheel and trq converter???? Maybe??? If I could avoid pulling the engine again it would be preferred.
Here is a picture of the gap, please give me suggestions on spacers and how to install them. Part of me wonders if I can drop the starter and gain access to the flywheel and put the bolts in with washers between the flywheel and trq converter???? Maybe??? If I could avoid pulling the engine again it would be preferred.
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05-11-2014, 04:37 PM
#9
I need to see a pic of the input shaft to determine without a doubt that it is the later style 4l60e. 99 should be ls style. Regardless, the converter will not bolt to that flex plate(different bolt pattens) or center in the crank without a pilot extender. Pull her back apart. We'll go from there.
-Brian
-Brian
05-11-2014, 05:06 PM
#12
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What Brian is looking for is a 300mm input shaft which looks like this:
A bell housing bolt hole in the 12 O'Clock position indicates 300mm input shaft when it came from the factory, but sometimes people replace bell housings.
The huge gap is highly suspicious of a wrong converter. The gap should be 1/16" to 3/16". Gaps around 1/4" should be reduced with spacers. Gaps of 1/2"+ indicate a wrong/bad converter or other inconsistency.
BTW - Those look like Hooker swap headers, what kind of car are you building?
A bell housing bolt hole in the 12 O'Clock position indicates 300mm input shaft when it came from the factory, but sometimes people replace bell housings.
The huge gap is highly suspicious of a wrong converter. The gap should be 1/16" to 3/16". Gaps around 1/4" should be reduced with spacers. Gaps of 1/2"+ indicate a wrong/bad converter or other inconsistency.
BTW - Those look like Hooker swap headers, what kind of car are you building?
05-11-2014, 06:33 PM
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My tranny doesn't have a hole at the 12 o'clock spot. The receipt lists HD overhauled 4l60e 99' w/ shift app and corvette servos, higher stall torque converter and extension housing. Good thing is it's still under warranty and I should be able to swap out anything I need, hopefully, don't see why not. It's technically only been mocked up.
Those headers actually got sent back, they didn't work with my power steering box, had to go with LS3 headers. Car is a 66 impala 2 door hardtop.
Those headers actually got sent back, they didn't work with my power steering box, had to go with LS3 headers. Car is a 66 impala 2 door hardtop.
05-11-2014, 06:42 PM
#14
I still need to see the input shaft to be sure. It's either an LS trans with the incorrect LT converter, or it's the LT trans and LT converter in which case you could buy one of our flex plates and pilot extenders and call it a day.
-Brian
-Brian
05-11-2014, 07:11 PM
#18
The LS bolt circle is 11.062" and the LT bolt circle is 10.750". Close, but not the same. You will not be able to get a bolt in without messing with the holes in your flex plate. I would never recommend anyone do that. Our flex plate has both patterns in question.
-Brian
-Brian