islander

I'm building a resto-rod: a 1966 Corvette convertible on a tube frame with updated components. Here are the specs that count:

1- Stock 402HP LS2 engine out of a 2006 Corvette
2- 3.54 Dana 44 rear end out of an early 90s ZR1 Corvette
3- Will have 245/45/17 or similarly sized tires in rear (about 26" diameter), either on an 8" or 9.5" rim.
4- Rebuilt 4L65E automatic tranny capable of handling 500+ HP
5- Finished car will weigh about 2200lbs

This car will probably never see a track or strip, mostly used for cruising and spirited driving.

My research points to using a Vig 3200 for a torque converter, but I'm a newbie, so what to I know? Any other suggestions? Pros or cons?

Gilbert@Ace Racing

Sorry for the lapse... I just saw this thread.

I would say your stall range is pretty darned close. I don't like to see street cars too much over 3,200 rpm's in mild powetrain combinations. I think it labors the engine too much. But, that's my opinion.

My experience tells me that you'll find that that anyones off the shelf 3200 rpm stall converter will not ever get that high unless you footbrake it hard. The reason is your car is very light compared to the cars those converters were designed for.

Take a look at what we have to offer. Here is a link to a discussion about our Street/Strip Converter Line. https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ons+ace+racing

If you would like to give me a call tomorrow I would be happy to discuss it with you in detail.

Oh and uh.... of your build!

g

islander

Ratchthed,

Thanks for the response. I just got the engine, I have to work on it this summer while I wait to get coil over shocks so I can make a roller out of it in the fall. It's then when I'll be ready to get the tranny/TC. Based on your answer regarding 3200 being at the high end for my car, and knowing that Vig understates their RPMs, if I do get a PI TC should I get their 2800 model instead? I'll check your stuff out as well, thanks for the offer.

I'll post some photos sometime this week-end, though the car's not really much to look at yet.

Cheers,

Islander

Gilbert@Ace Racing

Good question... I would think it would be best for you to speak to whomever you are going to get the converter from, they will know their units better than I would. Again, the units on the market today for these LSx powerplants were designed for heavy cars and trucks. I don't see it as too big of an issue, but the weight of the vehicle will definitely affect the stall speed.

Sounds like a fun project to me!

g

ws6t3rror

iTrader: (3)

I'd step it up a size if anything for the light bodied car, its gonna feel pretty tight anyway with the light weight and fairly decent gearing although you did not specify gear ratio.

I did a roadster last year that had a fairly stout engine in it. Weighed about 1900lbs, I put a 4400 stall in it. It will only get there on the transbrake, the most i have seen it do just railing on it from a stop is about 3000rpm. If you foot brake it really hard and then hit it when you let off you might get 3500 out of it on slicks. Driving it normally though, you'd be hard pressed to tell it has one in it. I did this based on a call to the manufacturer though, so thats good advice and i'd stick to it. Just thought i'd toss out some personal experience.

islander

ws6t3rror,

The gear ratio on the Dana 44 rear is 3.54, fairly rare for C4 Corvettes, only on ZR1s for a couple of years. By popular demand here are some pics of the car in progress, enjoy.

Here's where and how I found her. Just a shell and some assorted parts outside a barn.


Front view after I opened the sharked headlight buckets. Didn't like what I saw so I got a new front clip for it.


Off to the welder for birdcage repairs after blasting the metal.


Fixing a Hole Where the Rain Came in, along with some other tranny parts apparently. This was a bear to do.


Hole is patched and ready to be cleaned up. I could not have done it without the rotisserie I built for it. The other big hole behind the seat area has since been patched to accommodate the rear diff's upper crossmount bar on the tube frame.


Sitting on the Jamison tube frame, getting shim counts going.


The driver's door is back on as I have installed a new rear quarter panel as well as a tail light panel.


It's pretty much in that state now as I've concentrated lately on cleaning up the front 1996 Corvette suspension, rack and pinion assembly, making/welding new seat brackets for the C5 seats, etc.

Final product to look something like this:


Thanks for the responses to my questions. I do have one more: based on my specs do I need a cooler?

ws6t3rror

iTrader: (3)

Always need a cooler imo even if all stock, nice big stacked plate design is what I preffer. I like the tru-cool lpd 4490. 12"x11"x3/4". Has a gvw of 22,000. Its pretty large but you should be able to find a little room in front of the radiator for it with its fairly thin profile.

Its also about the largest thing you can fit in an fbody. I know thats not what you have but you should still be able to find room. A transmission cant really run too cool, the cooler it is the happier it is under normal conditions.

Gilbert@Ace Racing

That's right.

Here's some technical info related to the question. The fluid flow in an automatic typically goes something like this, some manufacturers vary, but for the most part it holds true for most any unit.

The torque converter is the component that generates the heat in an automatic transmission. The fluid changes directions at a very, very high rate of speed, the term is called "sheer". It is the "sheer" that cooks the fluid.

So, fluid leaves the converter and goes straight to the trans cooler. It returns to the transmission and then is immediately sent to the rotating assy for lubrication of the bearings, thrust washers etc... From there it returns to the sump (pan) to be picked up by the pump.

I mention that because most guys simply do not know this. You could imagine then that if we do not manage the heat it would rise uncontrollably, and that in turn would damage the rubber seals on the pistons.

The single biggest killer of automatics is heat. Always has been, always will be.

Grab a Jegs or Summit catalog. There are quite a few designs and configurations for tranny coolers shown. If you have a question about one just give me a shout.

Nice project, looks like you have your work cut out for you! Good Luck with it!

g

ws6t3rror

iTrader: (3)

G, its shear like ear. Can't help myself, cost me 5 points on my engineering fluid mechanics final last spring.

I will just say that if you go for a cooler get the stacked plate design. If you go with the fin and tube design the fluid is going to have to make a bunch of 180 degree turns. I actually did a lab test with this at one point and found the fluid came out of the tube/fin cooler marginaly hotter than it went in . The stacked plate design cooled it off very nicely though. So thats why I feel pretty strongly about the stacked plate pieces and only recommend them.

Gilbert@Ace Racing

Nice catch. I stand corrected. I'll make sure to not let that happen again. Now I know why I get those funny looks from guys when I type "sheer".

5 Points huh... ouch.

g