tranny question?
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tranny question?
I am starting to think about beefing up my tranny when i do a clutch/flywheel swap.
question is...what would be the best options to do this? links and what not would be nice too
question is...what would be the best options to do this? links and what not would be nice too
#2
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IMO your wasting your money with your power levels. Unless you have real big plans I dont see you being able to abuse the stock trans enough to break something besides the clutch.
tick builds nice trannies and so does rkt56.com........id spend your money elsewhere though.
tick builds nice trannies and so does rkt56.com........id spend your money elsewhere though.
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i was thinking along the same lines...just seeing if there is anything that i could do that was fairly cheap to help the tranny when i really start building up the car.
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You can do a few things like billet syncro keys and bronze fork pads just for a little more durability but there really is no way to "beef" them up short of doing things like input shaft, main shaft, counter shaft, and output shaft swaps that will require some money and machining to make work. You would have to find a guy that does the swaps though. A regular shop won't have a clue.
But like Cole said, that stuff in unecassary at you power levels. Most shops including RPM and Tick Performance use stock parts like syncros and gears for replacements.
But like Cole said, that stuff in unecassary at you power levels. Most shops including RPM and Tick Performance use stock parts like syncros and gears for replacements.
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Might talk to my bro, not sure what he just did but he had it beefed up I believe, granted I'm pretty sure he is pushing more power then you.....
I'm sure he will chime in here...
I'm sure he will chime in here...
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one thing that has crossed my mind is doing a complete tranny change.
maybe to the TR-6060, or a built up T56. i know at my current power, it is pointless. but that would be for if i really start building the car up for more then the common mods, along with the Gforce 9.
maybe to the TR-6060, or a built up T56. i know at my current power, it is pointless. but that would be for if i really start building the car up for more then the common mods, along with the Gforce 9.
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I was in the same boat as you Cole, I had the trans out to put in a twin disc clutch and figured I would have the trans rebuilt while I was at it. I had 76k miles on it and the only issue was it would pop out of reverse if i didn't manually hold the lever in place. All the forward gears were great.
I will also say, getting rid of the stock TURD of a flywheel is one of the best things I have ever done for the car. My complete twin setup weighed in at ~30lbs, and the FW is tapered to the edges to keep most of the rotational mass in the center.
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i hear ya on the crap flywheel. i am getting so fed up with it, i might be moving up the time table for the Monster Stage 3 w/ 18lbs FW.
my v has almost 36k on the clock now (4000 miles in the 7 weeks i have been able to drive her). i know it is still a good tranny, but never hurts to catch things early. an reverse is starting to act weird. R light comes on in the cluster and the sticks looks to be in reverse, but it isnt. it takes a couple times, sometimes more, to get the tranny to engage reverse.
my v has almost 36k on the clock now (4000 miles in the 7 weeks i have been able to drive her). i know it is still a good tranny, but never hurts to catch things early. an reverse is starting to act weird. R light comes on in the cluster and the sticks looks to be in reverse, but it isnt. it takes a couple times, sometimes more, to get the tranny to engage reverse.
#9
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built tranny<cam......just saying.
If your gonna build the tranny get it done once and get it done right. Tick and RKT56(my choice) would be the ones to do it. A stock T56 has been known to handle some serious abuse and in our cars its abuse that we cant even give it. Stock 03 cobras have seen 9s with stock trannies, fbodies have been in the same boat. Thats dumping the clutch at 6k rpm and pulling 1.5 60's.
If your gonna build the tranny get it done once and get it done right. Tick and RKT56(my choice) would be the ones to do it. A stock T56 has been known to handle some serious abuse and in our cars its abuse that we cant even give it. Stock 03 cobras have seen 9s with stock trannies, fbodies have been in the same boat. Thats dumping the clutch at 6k rpm and pulling 1.5 60's.
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I just did the standard freshen up with billet shift forks and better synchro's. They did put new bearings in the transmission too.
I was in the same boat as you Cole, I had the trans out to put in a twin disc clutch and figured I would have the trans rebuilt while I was at it. I had 76k miles on it and the only issue was it would pop out of reverse if i didn't manually hold the lever in place. All the forward gears were great.
I will also say, getting rid of the stock TURD of a flywheel is one of the best things I have ever done for the car. My complete twin setup weighed in at ~30lbs, and the FW is tapered to the edges to keep most of the rotational mass in the center.
I was in the same boat as you Cole, I had the trans out to put in a twin disc clutch and figured I would have the trans rebuilt while I was at it. I had 76k miles on it and the only issue was it would pop out of reverse if i didn't manually hold the lever in place. All the forward gears were great.
I will also say, getting rid of the stock TURD of a flywheel is one of the best things I have ever done for the car. My complete twin setup weighed in at ~30lbs, and the FW is tapered to the edges to keep most of the rotational mass in the center.
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Check my sig I know first hand, if you want more details about it PM me.
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i know i am not making the power (now), but when/if i put a blower on, i think the stage 3 will come in much more handy then 2 IMO. Stage 2 is rated at 525 HP/TQ, and with a S/C i will be looking to have that at the wheels. which 525 RWHP will translate to roughly 600 BHP.
i am still on the fence about stage 2 or 3, but i am leaning to 3 just because of bigger power handling ability.
i am still on the fence about stage 2 or 3, but i am leaning to 3 just because of bigger power handling ability.
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i know i am not making the power (now), but when/if i put a blower on, i think the stage 3 will come in much more handy then 2 IMO. Stage 2 is rated at 525 HP/TQ, and with a S/C i will be looking to have that at the wheels. which 525 RWHP will translate to roughly 600 BHP.
i am still on the fence about stage 2 or 3, but i am leaning to 3 just because of bigger power handling ability.
i am still on the fence about stage 2 or 3, but i am leaning to 3 just because of bigger power handling ability.
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Any chatter with the Exedy twin, and what kind of engagement window does it have?
I love my lightweight flywheel, but am not really sold on the clutch. It's a Zoom D2 twin, and before everyone burns me for buying a cheap *** twin, just know I got it for next to nothing.
The clutch is like nothing I have ever driven before, starting with the clutch pedal on the floor and releasing the pedal upward you can feel it engage about an inch from the floor and the car will just barely start to roll. Then as I release the pedal about another inch nothing much happens, same amount of clutch engagement. Finally as I release another inch (3 inches from the floor now) the clutch grabs, hard! and if I don't slip work it just perfect it will chatter. I don't have any issues with shifting gears, its just like any other clutch.
Does this sound normal for a twin? It's not hard to drive, just very different.
Just a heads up for anyone looking at buying a zoom D2 twin, you will need to make a 1/2" spacer. I made mine out of a piece of plate steel with a cutting torch, grinder, and drill press. It's not pretty, but functional and nobody will ever see it anyway.
I love my lightweight flywheel, but am not really sold on the clutch. It's a Zoom D2 twin, and before everyone burns me for buying a cheap *** twin, just know I got it for next to nothing.
The clutch is like nothing I have ever driven before, starting with the clutch pedal on the floor and releasing the pedal upward you can feel it engage about an inch from the floor and the car will just barely start to roll. Then as I release the pedal about another inch nothing much happens, same amount of clutch engagement. Finally as I release another inch (3 inches from the floor now) the clutch grabs, hard! and if I don't slip work it just perfect it will chatter. I don't have any issues with shifting gears, its just like any other clutch.
Does this sound normal for a twin? It's not hard to drive, just very different.
Just a heads up for anyone looking at buying a zoom D2 twin, you will need to make a 1/2" spacer. I made mine out of a piece of plate steel with a cutting torch, grinder, and drill press. It's not pretty, but functional and nobody will ever see it anyway.
#18
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You can do a few things like billet syncro keys and bronze fork pads just for a little more durability but there really is no way to "beef" them up short of doing things like input shaft, main shaft, counter shaft, and output shaft swaps that will require some money and machining to make work. You would have to find a guy that does the swaps though. A regular shop won't have a clue.
But like Cole said, that stuff in unecassary at you power levels. Most shops including RPM and Tick Performance use stock parts like syncros and gears for replacements.
But like Cole said, that stuff in unecassary at you power levels. Most shops including RPM and Tick Performance use stock parts like syncros and gears for replacements.
We have seen some adverse wear on the sliders using the bronze pads. Seems as though they generate a lot of heat and even debris and causes premature wear.
Stick with the nylon pads ...
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No chatter at all with the Exedy. This is the only twin I have ever run so I cant speak for others engagement windows. On mine though, I dont feel the two discs. The engagement is pretty high compared to my SPEC. I haven't measured but I would say a little less than mid way of total pedal throw. The pedal feel is much different than a single. I cant really describe how its different, you just know something is different. It did take some getting used to. The engagement window is small but manageable. You can slip the clutch but if you let out to fast it will bite and kill the car. It is very light. Mine weighed in at 35lbs total. The clutch is expensive but well worth it in my opinion. It is also rebuildable. I have no shifting issues like I had with the LS7 and SPEC clutches. Its just a very streetable DD clutch that bites like a pit bull. Its weird how they can get a clutch to do both but Exedy sure did it right.
#20
Any chatter with the Exedy twin, and what kind of engagement window does it have?
I love my lightweight flywheel, but am not really sold on the clutch. It's a Zoom D2 twin, and before everyone burns me for buying a cheap *** twin, just know I got it for next to nothing.
The clutch is like nothing I have ever driven before, starting with the clutch pedal on the floor and releasing the pedal upward you can feel it engage about an inch from the floor and the car will just barely start to roll. Then as I release the pedal about another inch nothing much happens, same amount of clutch engagement. Finally as I release another inch (3 inches from the floor now) the clutch grabs, hard! and if I don't slip work it just perfect it will chatter. I don't have any issues with shifting gears, its just like any other clutch.
Does this sound normal for a twin? It's not hard to drive, just very different.
Just a heads up for anyone looking at buying a zoom D2 twin, you will need to make a 1/2" spacer. I made mine out of a piece of plate steel with a cutting torch, grinder, and drill press. It's not pretty, but functional and nobody will ever see it anyway.
I love my lightweight flywheel, but am not really sold on the clutch. It's a Zoom D2 twin, and before everyone burns me for buying a cheap *** twin, just know I got it for next to nothing.
The clutch is like nothing I have ever driven before, starting with the clutch pedal on the floor and releasing the pedal upward you can feel it engage about an inch from the floor and the car will just barely start to roll. Then as I release the pedal about another inch nothing much happens, same amount of clutch engagement. Finally as I release another inch (3 inches from the floor now) the clutch grabs, hard! and if I don't slip work it just perfect it will chatter. I don't have any issues with shifting gears, its just like any other clutch.
Does this sound normal for a twin? It's not hard to drive, just very different.
Just a heads up for anyone looking at buying a zoom D2 twin, you will need to make a 1/2" spacer. I made mine out of a piece of plate steel with a cutting torch, grinder, and drill press. It's not pretty, but functional and nobody will ever see it anyway.